So I am in the middle of troubleshooting a right rear power window problem (for the second time). First time, about 3 years ago, it was the driver's door switch that was bad. Replaced it and had no problems till last week. On that occasion, it would go down, but not up. The main switch had a bad contact inside.

This time, it does nothing with either switch. I am always looking to share knowledge, because knowledge is power. I wanted to make a thread to help you guys find the problem in the future (and I am doing that), but I ain't shooting any videos. Pics I can do in spades, but no videos on this end. Ironically, I found an EXCELLENT video that shows EXACTLY how I troubleshot this problem on my truck, and the result was the same problem I have....broken wire. Broken wires are the perfect storm in automotive wiring. How do you find the break? Following the wire from beginning to end can take hours and hours of pulling things apart and tracing. Here is a video you can all use to become better troubleshooters for YOURSELVES and YOUR FRIENDS/FAMILIES.

I chased wiring problems on aircraft for 6 years in the Navy, so this is easy stuff for me most of the time. Follow this guy, and you can't go wrong on your window troubleshooting. His video is better than I could do if I made one.

 

Combine the above video with these, and anyone can do this wiring repair.

 

What drivers switch did you buy? My front pax window just started acting up last night. Works every time with the switch on the door but hardly never with the drivers switch

 

yup, thats how its done.

 

That soldered wire is likely to break much faster than if it were connected with a crimp terminal. The solder will create a non-flexible piece of wire and all the flexing will be concentrated right at the end of the solder. If there's a way to slide the wire into the vehicle side so that the flex is happening in the new section of wire away from the connection it would be much better.

 

That's why I linked in the posi-lock video.

 

i didnt see a second video cause i was on my phone.( now that i see there is one i will watch it later )




to point Van guys point..... splices should go in the door and vehicle body and only wire in the boot since it is a moving hinge.

lately i have been using the Heat Shrink Solder connectors, i like them for easy fixes but like Mike my backtound is in Aerospace so i tend to nerd out on my wiring.

 

It does not take very long to disassemble the door and get the motor out and test it

I’ve had one that was intermittent and then didn’t work and then only work sometimes when you slam the door and it turned out the motor was so full of carbon that nothing inside of it was working.

I just disassembled it, cleaned it, lubricated it, and put it back together again and saved myself at least $100

And while you have the door open you can test for power at the motor when you press the switch.