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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 06:09 AM
  #31  
sea2seajt's Avatar
sea2seajt
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Anyone had a chance to go to my album on here and look at the pics of the front end gear to see what you think?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 06:47 AM
  #32  
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MC5C
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What I see is that the stock steering stabilizer looks pretty worn out, I would change that out. It acts on the drag link directly, so should be a help. If you have a dropped bracket for the track bar attachment to the chassis then the stock bar should be able to be used, so change it out. Ideally the track bar will be at the same angle as the drag link to minimize bump steer.No pictures of the radius arm attachment points so no idea if there is anything on there to accommodate caster adjustment requirements.

Edit: on a second think about the stock steering stabilizer I might just take it off and toss it. The stabilizer is designed to lie in the same plane as the drag link but the lift makes the drag like drop down at a far steeper angle than the stabilizer. For the stabilizer to work as designed you would have to drop the chassis attachment down to put it back in line with the drag link. The way it is now the bushing at the drag link end will be ruined in no time, making it pretty useless.

Brian
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 06:49 AM
  #33  
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sea2seajt
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I will snap pics of those radius arms later today. It was almost too hot to lay on the pavement to snap a lot of pics yesterday. Thanks for takkng a look!
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 08:35 AM
  #34  
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Diamnd1
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From: TN
jack the front up and have someone turn the wheels for you while under it. If you have a track bar bushing worn, it will be obvious. Same thing happens in Jeeps. Also look at ball joints, and all steering components when turning. Grab the tire on top and bottom and try to move back and forth. this can reveal a worn wheel bearing. Look at the wheel assembly while in the air, does it look off camber, if so it could be the ball joints. These trucks are hard on them and usually need replacing around 100k or so in stock configuration. Add the extra size in tire and lift and it gets exponentially worse.

If you can't see anything yourself, it would be best to take it to a reputable front end shop. This is a dangerous situation and I have had it before on some of my offroad jeeps. Once you change the suspension geometry, gremlins come out of the woodwork and can multiply like rats.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 08:57 AM
  #35  
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Sarge261
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Don't just put the stock steering stabilizer back in there. Put a dual steering stabilizer in there, it will make a huge difference, and as I an others have said check the track bar, ball joints and all other components.

Its fixable regardless of what a few of the nay sayers have to say... and the "hey look at me trucks" are nice to look at and can drive and handle just like the stock trucks if put together correctly.

We'll get ya through it just be patient with us.

Sarge
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 10:14 AM
  #36  
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MC5C
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Here is an example of a lift kit that drops the rear of the radius arm: Ford Suspension Lift Kit

That does a number of good things, it puts the caster back and it reduces the massive gain in anti-dive that just dropping the axle down creates. Excessive anti-dive will kind of lock up the suspension under braking, and will reduce traction making braking performance quite poor in slippery conditions.

Brian
 
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