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A common belief by many is to find loose or worn parts and you'll solve your problem...actually loose or worn parts don't cause the problem, they only allow for the problem. By replacing the parts you'll quiet the issue but not cure it.
Well id love to cure it but most of all make it safe ro drive. I love the way the vehicle looks and its certainly not overkill in my opinion. If i can retain the set up and make it safer to drive id love to.
This is for mc5c...caster adjustments are made at the unsprung side...chassis/lift adjustments are made on the sprung side. Then how does a lift affect the caster angles. Not to criticize but to learn something I obviously don't know.
If that track bar bushing is bad this will cause your death wobble situation. Unlike some of the posters in your thread it is fixable. I'm willing to bet that its the stock track bar which is now too short for the lift. You need to look into an adjustable bar to get that axle centered back up under that truck. Also make sure you have a drop pitman arm, most of these parts are "extras" which add to the cost of the kit.
See if these parts are there first, using the stock track bar and pitman arm on a lift that big will no doubt cause serious issues. Also I'm willing to bet the ball joints are shot and so on. Get a good luck at that front end and post your results. If you know the lift manufacturer see if they have the parts you need to get the axel back in the center of that truck.
Even with a leveling kit it puts the axle off center a little, I have an adjustable track bar in mine and its just leveled.
Could you also post some pictures of that truck for me it looks real nice.
Artguys - when you do a little investigation of what caster is you find that it is the fore-aft inclination of the kingpin axis of the front steering knuckle, so is totally related to the front axle. You want the kingpin axis of the front knuckle to have 3 - 4 degrees of tilt, with the top leaning back towards the rear of the vehicle. In the case of the 05 and up Superduty 4WD front suspension, there is a radius arm that locates the front axle. When the lift is installed, the radius arm just rotates down and the front axle rotates with it, so the effect is that as the axle rotates the caster is reduced. You need to either relocate the point where the radius arms are located on the chassis to move them down to re-establish the stock geometry with the lift in place, or put aftermarket caster adjusting bushings in to accomplish the same thing. The caster bushings also adjust camber, and they can only go so far so if your lift is over around 4", you need to look at the relocation kit for the radius arm pickup points.
Edit: I did a back of the envelope calculation once, and thought that each inch of lift removed about 1 degree of caster. A 4 inch lift could result in zero degrees of caster, and a six inch lift could result in negative caster. Caster is what makes the front steer wheels on shopping carts go straight, and is part of why your bicycle doesn't fall over, it's a useful thing to have on your truck...
I was, in the business for many years and this thread and many others on this site are reflections of what customers who had to have that hey look at me added to their ride. Unless you need these add ons for your truck then expect what is happening with this poster.
Disagree with this statement!
There are ba-zillions of people driving around with lifted trucks and over size tires. People have been putting lifts and big tires on their trucks practically since trucks were invented.
You have a problem and it needs to be addressed. I have owned more than one super duty. All were lifted and all had 36 or 37 inch tires. and NONE have ever had the death wobble.
You have the death wobble and while it is unfortunate and unlucky, however, you are lucky in that it is well known and very easy to research and fix.
BTW, there are plenty of videos on youtube of people displaying the death wobble, and they have OE sized tires so to argue artguy's statement, this can happen to a stock truck and is not a problem exclusive to lifted "hey look at me trucks."
Your truck is definitely fixable and you can keep it looking bada$$.
Last edited by ccstp; Jun 12, 2013 at 05:53 PM.
Reason: n/a
I have the death wobble going on as well. I work for a utility company that has a large fleet of for f series trucks. I have also talked to BPD and a few other sources. They all agree if you raise it from stock you need an adjustable trac bar and that that is part of the problem but also the ball joints are an issue to. I am installing a Carli leveling kit this weekend along with replacing the trac bar ball joint and the other four ball joints. I did have a couple of tie rod ends replace last year and that was a very slight improvement. You can put a dual stabilizer shock system on but all that does is put a band aid on. Eventually the shocks will go bad trying to stop the wobble. This is just one mans opinion.
Well I hav e a post drawn up and pics taken but it seems I am unable to add images to my reply. The only option is gives me is to add a url for an image...
Ok the pics are in an album on my profile. Please check it out and let me know what you think. It looks like they used a lowered bracket for the upper track bar mount and then left the lower mount (ball joint) pointing down. The angle of the bar does not look too severe so should I flip the ball joint or leave it alone. So far I need to replace the track bar bushing, possibly the track bar ball joint, all 4 tie rod ends (steering links and drag links). I would rather not spend 700 bucks on one of those track bars that eliminates the ball joint and uses adjustable heim joints. They look nice but the price makes me want to go have the stuff machined myself....
I'm all ears!
The truck is parked until I fix this. Too dangerous for the the horribly bumpy roads here in the Norfolk area.
I have the death wobble going on as well. I work for a utility company that has a large fleet of for f series trucks. I have also talked to BPD and a few other sources. They all agree if you raise it from stock you need an adjustable trac bar and that that is part of the problem but also the ball joints are an issue to. I am installing a Carli leveling kit this weekend along with replacing the trac bar ball joint and the other four ball joints. I did have a couple of tie rod ends replace last year and that was a very slight improvement. You can put a dual stabilizer shock system on but all that does is put a band aid on. Eventually the shocks will go bad trying to stop the wobble. This is just one mans opinion.
WOW... some rude people on this one.. LOL... sea2seajt dont believe all the non-sense.. i also have an 8 inch lift and am running 38's on my truck... I LOVE its stance and the way it handles.. Yes turning tight is not al option and i do get some road noise.. BUT your situation goes to track bar.. you have to have beefier parts to handle the extra stress put off but such a lift.. a 4 inch lift is nothing.. a 6 you need stronger parts and some new brackets.. an 8 inch lift changes geometry more than you think.... change what looks bad and take it to an allignment shop. they will tell you what you need caster/camber/toe(in/out)... then go from there.. i have a drop pitman arm, all the brackets, drive shaft/t-case drops, and longer amrs everywhere.. time wears on these more and faster with a lift..