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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 11:41 AM
  #1  
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New ball joints

I put new upper and lower ball joints on a few weeks ago. The front end is really tight after getting done. the steering wheel will not return to center. I feel like I am constantly on the wheel correcting. I had the alignment checked and they said it was good. I also put new 17" wheels and bigger tires on it at the same time.

We just towed our camper this past weekend and the truck and camper was all over the road. Is all of the above caused by new ball joints?

Need some help on this one.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 11:51 AM
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Now that the ball joints are tight, they are probably not masking other problems anymore.

Have someone check your rag joint, drag link, tie rod ends, and Track bar bushings. If those are ok, then have them inspect your steering box for play.

If it still wanders and all of the above are good, consider changing the caster / camber settings.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 12:15 PM
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Wouldn't you think they would have checked this stuff when they were checking alignment?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 12:35 PM
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You would be surprised at what they don't check. The mechanics are usually paid a flat rate per job. The faster they get done means the faster they can get another vehicle up ther and make more money. Checking the front for other wear parts takes time and only makes money for the company amd less for the mechanic.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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Think about how many times you have seen a "check your front end" service listed at places. Even if it is free to you, the mechanic is till paid a flat rate from the company for it.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 02:16 PM
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And making sure your lug-nuts are "good-n-tight" is faster than actually ensuring they are properly torqued.

So 2 weeks later when you get shaking when you stop it might just be the lug-nuts are too tight.

Is it just me, or does it seem that almost everywhere you take vehicles to get worked this type of stuff happens now? 20 years ago I didn't have to follow-up AFTER paying folks to do stuff to my vehicle..
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 11:15 PM
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Here were some of my issues that I pulled from an old thread but didn't feel like re-writing it.

I am currently dealing with a similar situation with my steering not returning to center.
Prior to my new ball joints (moog), the X seemed to drive pretty good on the fwy. I had recently added V/B mod springs new shocks and tires. Since I did so much work I took it to an alignment shop and they said I need new everything in my front end.
So I added ....
New ball joints upper and lower
New front end links left and right
New steering link
and one more link I can't remember what its called.

After I added the ball joints the steering was not good on the fwy and it was all over the road it did not and does not return to center. This was causing me to steer the X to keep it centered.

The alignment shop told me the ball joints are tight and need to break in.
Prior to the ball joints it seem good and I can see that the ball joints are somewhat breaking in....

I lowered the air in my tires and I removed the steering dampener. These have helped the drive but not fully. I feel that my steering box is too tight from the previous owner and is not returning to center because of this.

My theory...Since my old ball joints were no good the tight steering box compensated for this which made the drive ok. But with good and tight ball joints the steering box may now be too tight on it causing it to not return to center. I am going to back it off a bit and hope that it has not been overtightened and now no good which may have me purchasing a redhead steering box.

and then ....

I just backed off the steering box by about a 1/4 turn (loosened it) and it has helped the constant steer I had to do while I was on the fwy.
It didn't completely remove the issue with it not returning to center but it drives much better.

I also removed the end links from the each of the knuckles and turned them by hand and they turn free, smooth and are not binding. They don't feel tight at all. As soon as I hook it all up and move the wheels by hand it is tighter.

I also changed the toe in my alignment which was pretty much at 0. It is now 1/8" toed in and it has helped it driving straight and returning to center. I may be doing it some more so that it is at 1/4" toed in which is the max you should do.

Last thing which finally made it drive nice was replacing the steering box with a RedHead.



Tim M
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by kconrad
I also put new 17" wheels and bigger tires on it at the same time.
.

Not that this alone is your problem, but I know from experience that bigger-than-stock tires wander more than the tiny stockers. Like the other guys said, this is probably just exposing other front-end problems and fixing those will make the larger tires more tolerable. The Big Ex is a serious white-knuckle experience when it won't hold onto the road properly.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 01:55 AM
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I bet they screwed up the alignment.

I had an alignment done one time at a buddy's shop and I didn't get a block away because the truck wouldn't return to center. I took it back and told my buddy the problem and he knew right away what happened.

He had it re-aligned within 20 minutes, fixing his employees mistake, and I was out the door with a rig that drove straight and true.

I forget what happened but he said it can be a common mistake with a Ford.

Can you post the alignment specs they put on your rig?

Stewart
 
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 12:34 PM
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It most definitely was a white-knuckle experience pulling our camper.

The shop did not give me the alignment specs. I am hopefully taking it to another shop tomorrow where apparently there is a guy that has been doing front end work for many years.

I did think about putting the old wheels tires back on and see if it rules out the issue.

My buddy and I checked the alignment the old fashion way and the toe is in about a 1/16" so I could set the toe in alittle more.

It is just driving me crazy because it handled great and pulled our camper fine before doing the ball joints and getting new wheels and tires.

Everything was put back together per Ford torque specs so I know that is not a factor.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 03:14 PM
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Make sure tires are aired up to spec. I had some of the same problems, after all the same checking, alignment, ball joints, brakes, I finally aired up tires to above 60 and now it drives like a good ford truck.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by kconrad
I am hopefully taking it to another shop tomorrow where apparently there is a guy that has been doing front end work for many years.
Run these numbers by Cody passed him.

Originally Posted by cleatus12r
You DON'T want negative toe.

Camber
+1.2 LH
+1.2 RH

Caster
+3 LH
+3.5 RH

Toe
+.3
Stewart
 
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