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Running 35" mt's, any suggestions on the best toe, caster, and camber degrees? Searching on here I've found; 1.2 positive caster, 1.5 positive camber, toe negative 1.3 both sides total of neg. 2.6. The post acknowledged these weren't in the guidelines, but were the "best" he'd found. I also read 3.5 caster. Anyone wanna throw some numbers? I've had a hard time finding someone to 4 wheel align my super cab long bed truck around the austin area, so I guess I'm gonna go with four wheel parts wholesalers. They don't use caster wedges, which I read wasn't good. Granted I've found some shops that said they "would" do it, but I don't want a "set the toe and let it go" job.
Running 35" mt's, any suggestions on the best toe, caster, and camber degrees? Searching on here I've found; 1.2 positive caster, 1.5 positive camber, toe negative 1.3 both sides total of neg. 2.6. The post acknowledged these weren't in the guidelines, but were the "best" he'd found. I also read 3.5 caster. Anyone wanna throw some numbers? I've had a hard time finding someone to 4 wheel align my super cab long bed truck around the austin area, so I guess I'm gonna go with four wheel parts wholesalers. They don't use caster wedges, which I read wasn't good. Granted I've found some shops that said they "would" do it, but I don't want a "set the toe and let it go" job.
Just did my ball joints saturday and had Brake Check do the alignment. They have the correct equipment to do the alignment on either a 2wd or 4wd Superduty or Excursion. $63 later, my truck is perfectly aligned...
The only thing you'd probably need is some adjustable alignment cams. The ones that come stock are barely adjustable and don't allow for much....
I am curious of the best alignment specs too as i am about to get mine realigned with the 35 MT's. Few guys told me stock everything and make the front toe as far out ( positive as possible) to help with wandering. Have no idea if that is good or not so looking forward to hearing others opinions.
Few guys told me stock everything and make the front toe as far out ( positive as possible) to help with wandering. Have no idea if that is good or not so looking forward to hearing others opinions.
As far in would be the best word to describe positive toe.
Regardless, there is a lot of adjustment in the tie rod and as far as possible would NOT be the right thing to do. Like I posted above, I usually would set the toe at +.3 to +.5 on a truck with 35s.
Just did my ball joints saturday and had Brake Check do the alignment. They have the correct equipment to do the alignment on either a 2wd or 4wd Superduty or Excursion. $63 later, my truck is perfectly aligned...
The only thing you'd probably need is some adjustable alignment cams. The ones that come stock are barely adjustable and don't allow for much....
Is that a 4 wheel alignment? If so, that's cheap. 4WP wants $120. +$50 for cams each side, if needed.
[QUOTE=Toreador_Diesel;8898217]Just did my ball joints saturday and had Brake Check do the alignment. They have the correct equipment to do the alignment on either a 2wd or 4wd Superduty or Excursion. $63 later, my truck is perfectly aligned...
Hey thanks for the advice on trying brake check, I didn't know they did alignments. $63 was for a one time, and they'll do a lifetime for $110. And that is 4 wheel. 110 for lifetime of truck, ooooh they're gonna hate me!!
[QUOTE=cleatus12r;8901286]If you pay for a 4 wheel alignment on your truck, you are getting ripped off.[/QUOTE
Care to elaborate? The info I got off here claims if you don't start in the rear, you'll never get the front. Do you feel it's not necessary or that they're just not going to do it. ie getting ripped off?
Good luck aligning the rear. That's what I'm getting at. Short of bending the axle tube, there's nothing you can do to fix a rear alignment issue. Sure, you can fix a thrust angle problem with spring perch shims, but to actually fix a camber or single side toe issue, it's not going to happen.
I gotcha. I read about using the shims to fix the thrust angle and I know they aren't gonna mess with that. I'll call them out on it when I go up there, bet they charge me regardless. They'll warranty it for the life of the truck so.... might as well. It's that or keep eating up overpriced tires.
A "4 wheel alignment" only refers to an INDEPENDENT rear suspension. Ours are about as dependent as you can get!
As for the alignment specs, the only one you can adjust easily is the toe (by spinning the lower tie rod adjustment tube). Camber and castor are set by sleeves in the steering knuckles that the ball joints are pressed into. To change those settings you either need to pull your front end apart and replace those sleeves with different sized ones or cams that are adjustable once you re-assemble everything.
Hey Cody, I know you answered my PM, but for future searches by others looking for the info, can you post what you feel are the ideal alignment specs for a 2-wheel drive truck like mine, with a 2" leveling kit, dual adjustable camber/caster bushings, and stock wheels and tires?
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