Ignition issues!!
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
You need a ballast resistor in the 'hot in run' feed to the coil.
Buy a Mopar ceramic resistor and mount it to the firewall.
Add a second wire direct to the coil from the 'I" terminal of the fender mounted stater solenoid.
Buy a Mopar ceramic resistor and mount it to the firewall.
Add a second wire direct to the coil from the 'I" terminal of the fender mounted stater solenoid.
New User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
ok so if I understand even if I have a coil that can take the full 12v the module is burning out because I didn't reduce the v to the coil because it, is grounding through the green wire from module and that is what is doing in the module. I can try getting another new module and putting the resistor back in line to the coil and running truck in driveway
New User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
I bought the resistor after the module went out the first time I thought it was the coil I then bought a performance coil that they said I could run 12v directly to without resistor that's why didn't have it in the 2nd time I haven't tried new good module with resistor to coil yet.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Coil ohms have to be compatible with the module too!
See posters here all the time who do half of a DSII conversion and try to run their old Ecoil at 12V.
DSII is more than enough spark to at least 6,000 rpm.
See posters here all the time who do half of a DSII conversion and try to run their old Ecoil at 12V.
DSII is more than enough spark to at least 6,000 rpm.
New User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
OK I bet that is my problem as I am still using a square style coil and I believe the correct one for the DS11 was round I will check the ohms on the coil and see what is going on you have giving me some hope again thank you
New User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
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Wanted to leave an update for anyone that is researching this problem, It was the wrong coil pack I back dated to an older style coil that had greater ohms and have been driving the truck for a month with no issues running great. so much better than the other system and I removed the eem all together. Thank you to ardwrkntrk for your knowledge and willing to share.
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Thank YOU for the follow up.
Glad to hear your truck is running reliably.
Replacing the ignition module every twenty minutes can get expensive!
Anyway, Rep's to you for letting us know how it worked out.
Glad to hear your truck is running reliably.
Replacing the ignition module every twenty minutes can get expensive!
Anyway, Rep's to you for letting us know how it worked out.
New User
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
hi, I am having a problem with my ignition on my e250 1991. I had to drill the ignition and remove the pushrod and so on. all the way to the connector to the ignition start switch. so I am going to put a universal switch in or a push button. any help would be great. I had seen that you showed a diagram but it won't let me see it.
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