Ok so I have a 1980 f250 ranger with a 351. Now my ignition has nearly completely gone out and I have been trying to just bypass it alltogether. I have a switch in the cab that engages the starter, I also ran a wire from the positive baterry terminal to the positive terminal of the coil in an attempt to bypass the rest of the ignition (dont worry I did it properly by putting an inline fuse and 12volt relay in there). However even with all this my same problem still arrises... The truck will start fine a couple of times then crap out for the reat of the day. And when I use the little rod on top of the steering collumn and pull it back when running, even if I have power running to the coil it will shut it off. Also when the truck wont start I can pull it back amd it will fire once, but only once, right as it clicks back into its off position. Almost as though there is a sweet spot but I have spent hours trying to find it but have failed. So what im asking is two things. Do you guys believe that my little aluminum fender well ignition box is going out? And what else could i do to absolutely simplify to the greatest degree the ignition system, basically doing what you would do to get an engine to run out of the vehicle and on a stand, only in the vehicle. I want to have it set up to where I have ONLY the starter switch in the cab for ghe starter, and the switch in the cab that allows the engine to run. I would love to bypass the ignition box as well but I understand that it also controllls the ti, ing to a degree.

 

First off, what is the "little rod on top of the steering column" you are referring to? The ignition switch is not that expensive. I ordered the entire ignition system INCLUDING DISTRIBUTOR for about 150,

If the problem is the ignition switch on the column, it takes all of 5 minutes to replace, Id start there.

I'm not telling you to mindlessly throw parts at the thing, but I'm having a bit of trouble understanding what exactly the problem is. It starts fine most of the time but what exactly does it do the rest of the time? Please elaborate a little bit more. Also, is this a computer controlled carb or just a plain jane duraspark II system.

 

It's a straight up DSII system.

It sounds to me like his ignition actuator rod is broken.
(is this tilt wheel?)
The part is available from Dorman through any auto parts store for about $15 retail.



Maybe your ignition switch IS worn out, but if you are sending 12V directly to your coil it is no wonder it gets hot and quits.
These trucks are only supposed to 'see' 7-8V in the run position.

If you insist on hacking your wiring you need to purchase a ceramic ballast resistor and mount it in the circuit somewhere that it won't melt or catch anything on fire. (they do get hot)

 

The little rod i was referring to is indeed the "ignition actuator rod" as the other gentleman said, you see i am a shade tree mechanic at the moment and as im sure you know we are full of "majiggers" "thingys" and "twisty bits" and the like.

However, if the rod was broken wouldnt it not start whatsoever, the tradition has been a couple absolutely great (but what else would you expect from a ford) starts then absolutely nothing. And no it is not tilt wheel. And It has been doing this start then not start thing for about a month before i even set up that whole wiring thing, and as far as that goes i will indeed put in the ceramic resistor if you recommend it. Because i absolutely wish to bypass as much as i can, But i would like to do it right. Like i said what i hope to do it basically be able to start the engine as though i were starting it on a stand or something, with a few switches, only in the vehicle.

So all in all the two biggest questions that i have are, do you believe that my duraspark box is shot? And what else would you gentlemen recommend i do to fully bypass ANYTHING that isnt vital.

If you need anymore information for troubleshooting on the ignition box feel free to ask, i apologize in the delay of my reply, i have been at work since the time of my initial post.

Thank you all for your help as well.

 

No, I don't think the module is at fault.

A) You wouldn't get spark at all once the module heated up.
B) When you 'pull the little rod back' you are cutting off the power the module needs to do its work. (this fits what I understand of your description)

Here is a diagram.
You can see the resistor is spliced into the wiring harness, but "Run" also follows on to the module.
The module gets power in "Start" from the white wire. (this retards the timing, for easier hot starts)



The resistor wire in my truck is in the harness close to the ignition switch under the dash.

If you want to get rid of the module you're going to need to get a points distributor or an HEI 'all in one' unit.
But you seem to have an aversion to electronics, so if you don't want capacitors and transistors you're stuck with points.
Even they have a condenser (cap)

 

I run an MSD system (box and coil, stock distributor) and it's a little simpler in that it has fewer wires to hook up, but it's expensive (for the module it's around $200, for an entire system including new distributor it's over $400). But I wouldn't have mine if I hadn't got it for super cheap. lol

With a good ignition switch and the wiring hooked up as factory, you shouldn't have any issues with the truck starting and running as it was designed to. Won't be any need for extra switches, relays, etc.

Have you checked out the ignition switch in your steering column? It could be messed up. Also make sure that rod you describe isn't bent; I took the column cover off years ago due to it being all warped and out of shape, and one time that rod got bent and it wouldn't crank. I bent it back by hand (carefully) and it worked fine.

 

Oh wow that diagramhelped my understanding of my system immensly, thank you!so basically even thoughi "hotwired" my system my ignitionswit h is still vital as it tells the ignition module to allow the truck to run. And since I have friends with other trucks of the same generation and they have told me that they have replaced their ignitionswit hes multiple times. So regardless I would like to bypass it, bht bypassing the ignition box will have to be saved for when I can afford a points destributor. And so basically what I need to do now is run power to the red wire and run a wire from my in-cab starter switch to the white wire, am I correct inmy thinking here? If so what fuses, resistors, ect. Do I need to throw in there and where?


And as far as my igniton actuator rod being bent, I do ot believe it is, but I will check, the reason I say this is be ause as I said it will start a few times just fine. And thank you for givingme the general prices of your ignition system as I may indeed end up doing something like that.

Thank you gentlemen you are being huge helps for me!

 

You need one resistor.
There should be one fuse on the battery hot going to your starter switch.
No need for any relays, diodes, or other stuff to get in an electron's way.
Remember, K.I.S.S.
That's all I can think of....

Run a wire from the 'I' terminal of your starter solenoid to the white lead of the Module.
This is how Ford did it in the '70's

Get a Mopar 1.4 Ohm ceramic ballast resistor.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/mopar-ballast-resistor
Here's one from Summit on Ebay for $16.95
This will give you about 8.5V at the coil, if the system is at 12V

Splice it off the 'hot in run' wire going to your module and bring it to the coil.
Then bring a wire from the 'start' position and splice it in after the resistor to the same wire going to the coil.

It's all there in the diagram...

 

Ah now I see, I just next to never do much wiring and so I am a novice at understanding diagrams and the like. Anyway I fully get it now. One other question I do have however is; that I dont see any kind of fuses or resistors going to the module, will thatbe alright or do ineed to put somethingin there to protect it, or should I just do all that before even the switch itself?

 

The fusible link coming off the hot side of the starter solenoid is enough to protect the circuit if the proper wire gauge is used.
You don't want a fuse that could fail and kill the engine while driving.
Loss of your power steering and brake booster can be a BIG problem in a panic situation.

 

Alrighty, thank you. I will say haha, that the truck already has no power steering so onthat part at least ive had training.

 

This looks like the Duraspark II Ignition Module with the Blue Grommet. I have been paying hell to find one or what Motorcraft part number transposes from Duraspark II Ignition Module D8VE 12A199 A2D and since they were supposed to be used on Ford cars and trucks from 1977 to 1984 why don't the breaker yards have any. And why don't parts stores know how to transpose my part number to a Napa or Motorcraft or any other ignition module? It seems as soon as I mention Duraspark II ignition module with the Blue Grommet eye's glaze over and answers to other questions that were never asked get answered. Like how to get a new distributor built custom?

 

Does anyone know what is the best OEM ignition module to replace my original Duraspark II D8VE 12A199 A2D ignition module with the blue grommet and 6 wires, Red, White, Black, Green, Purple, and Orange? It seems to be so baffling to parts stores that they just want to know what year and model truck I have. And I tell them they were on Ford cars and trucks from 1977 to 1985 but they just look up my particular truck and say they are discontinued. Come on. These are the most popular conversions since sliced bread. Or that is what I read. It doesn't help that I live in California so I can't do the upgrades that I want to with the Mallory setup that just adds onto my Duraspark II system because of inviromental concerns. One guy even passed all the tests but they flunked him on a visual in, you guessed it, California. I really hate this state.

 

My 1987 has a blue grommet module.
Carbureted trucks over 8,600 lbs had them 'til the end.

My NAPA (echlin) module is a TP40.
I bought one last year.

 

Not sure if this is the right place new to this. I have an 86 f150 s-6 that I was back dating and eliminating the eec I got a new vacuum advance distributor and new ignition control module master pro for an 83 f150 I think that I connected everything right orange and purple wires to the pickup coil the black ground to distributor and the green to the neg. coil side the 12 v ignition wire to the coil and the module and one of the ignition start wires to the ignition module the truck runs great for around 20 min before blowing the ignition module long enough for me to set the timing and take short test drive quit in driveway replaced ignition module and put performance coil on I got another 20 min before the module went out again the ground to the distributor is good checked that any ideas. Please help not sure what else to try