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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 05:46 PM
  #61  
88 Ford IDI's Avatar
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I am pretty sure the springs are like an inch or two narrower on a SD or something like that. I remember a guy did it a while back on OBN and had to move them.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 10:48 PM
  #62  
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While I realize my post count is very, very low I did a bunch of research on the rear axles for a different project ... a LOT of research ... so I feel confident in saying the following:

The 99+ 10.5" rear is just over 3" wider than the your stock 10.25, not to mention the shock and spring mounts that others have pointed out. In addition to the metric bolt patten you have different sized wheel studs (IIRC, not positive) and "hub centric" - so don't count on being able to re-use your original wheels.

All-in-all, not necessarily a straight-forward swap.

HTH
 
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 11:03 PM
  #63  
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I guess I was backward. Lol. The SD springs are wider. I knew it was something like that. And yeah they definitely have a metric bolt pattern.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 11:06 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by kollenh
While I realize my post count is very, very low I did a bunch of research on the rear axles for a different project ... a LOT of research ... so I feel confident in saying the following:

The 99+ 10.5" rear is just over 3" wider than the your stock 10.25, not to mention the shock and spring mounts that others have pointed out. In addition to the metric bolt patten you have different sized wheel studs (IIRC, not positive) and "hub centric" - so don't count on being able to re-use your original wheels.

All-in-all, not necessarily a straight-forward swap.

HTH
Thanks for the input. Ill have to do some re-checking, afaik the 10.25 / 10.5 are or are damn near the same width. I know 10.25 and 10.5 are said to be 3" wider than a D60 out of say a 79. The metric pattern is a non-issue for me and you are right my 8 on 6.5 will not work on the 8 on 160mm or w/ever the hell they are. They do not require hub-centric wheels. I think however like you say, that sadly the spring perches and shock mounts will have to be moved, while not the end of the world, it is kind of a PITA



In other news.... seriously reconsidering the electric fans... more testing and tuning to be done before they get scrapped, but it doesnt look good for them.

Somewhat on that note, always been my experience with a diesel that if you are pulling it hard and she gets warm on the pyro, to downshift and it will drop egts... however in the case of my 92 it seems to be opposite. I can bury the pedal at 2k loaded with horses and trailer roughly 8500#, going up hill in 5th and pyro will stop at 900-950ish, however if i downshift and run at say 2800 in 4th pedal buried, egts shoot up to 1100 and the truck gets hot. FWIW, the 900* @ 2k is layin down some pretty good smoke, the 1100 @ 2800 is crystal clear. Also, the spooky part, anytime the pyro gets over 1k and the coolant temp starts creeping up, i get weird noises from the engine bay. Like something loose or bumping the firewall, during which scenario the smoke turns very grey in comparison to the usual black...

To summarize: I think my injectors are shot, my timing is too retarded, and my headgaskets may be leaking when running hard. E-fans up to the challenge... to be decided.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 11:22 PM
  #65  
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Ill have to do some re-checking, afaik the 10.25 / 10.5 are or are damn near the same width. I know 10.25 and 10.5 are said to be 3" wider than a D60 out of say a 79.
The 10.25 and 10.5 are not the same width - the 10.5 is 3" wider than both the 10.25 and the D60 out of a '79. I've had all three under the tape measure. The D60 and the 10.25 are within 1/8" of each other, however - I just swapped my D60 for a 10.25 and it fits just like the D60 ... other than spring & shock mounts but that was due to my unique situation.

In other news.... seriously reconsidering the electric fans... more testing and tuning to be done before they get scrapped, but it doesnt look good for them.
Please keep us informed; I'm curious to hear what you find as I was hoping to do the same on my setup.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 11:44 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by kollenh
The 10.25 and 10.5 are not the same width - the 10.5 is 3" wider than both the 10.25 and the D60 out of a '79. I've had all three under the tape measure. The D60 and the 10.25 are within 1/8" of each other, however - I just swapped my D60 for a 10.25 and it fits just like the D60 ... other than spring & shock mounts but that was due to my unique situation.



Please keep us informed; I'm curious to hear what you find as I was hoping to do the same on my setup.
Starting to think youre right, makes sense now why i didnt just swap the 10.25 in my 79. No biggie for the 92 though.

Will do. Right now im thinking there is a combination of things hindering me as far as the e-fans keeping up. As in the truck is building alot more heat than it should, Which is why i said more test/tuning to be done.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 07:50 PM
  #67  
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Somewhat on that note, always been my experience with a diesel that if you are pulling it hard and she gets warm on the pyro, to downshift and it will drop egts... however in the case of my 92 it seems to be opposite. I can bury the pedal at 2k loaded with horses and trailer roughly 8500#, going up hill in 5th and pyro will stop at 900-950ish, however if i downshift and run at say 2800 in 4th pedal buried, egts shoot up to 1100 and the truck gets hot. FWIW, the 900* @ 2k is layin down some pretty good smoke, the 1100 @ 2800 is crystal clear. Also, the spooky part, anytime the pyro gets over 1k and the coolant temp starts creeping up, i get weird noises from the engine bay. Like something loose or bumping the firewall, during which scenario the smoke turns very grey in comparison to the usual black...

To summarize: I think my injectors are shot, my timing is too retarded, and my headgaskets may be leaking when running hard. E-fans up to the challenge... to be decided.[/QUOTE]

I finally got to tow my camper since doing my upgrades and my engine too heats up when the pyro gets up. Not real bad. I seen 215-220 climbing hills with the ac wide open in 90+ degrees. Regularly hit 1000 on the pyro hitting hills. On the other hand, I can hit 1000 wot climbing the steep hill by the house from dead stop unloaded. But the old gal's pulling great!
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 11:07 PM
  #68  
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LED gauge bulbs

For LED bulbs, I have some Jtech Brand led's from amazon in my a/c heater panel, glovebox, ashtray and above my headlight switch. Had them in there for 6 months, and they dim correctly, put off very little heat and much brighter. Plan on getting some more for cab lights and gauges soon. They go for around a little over $5 for 5 bulbs. I use the style with 4 radial leds and one that shines straight out. Others often go for SuperBrightLeds, which are probably better and more expensive.

heres a link to some
Jtech 6x 194 168 2825 T10 5-SMD White LED Car Lights Bulb Super Bright : Amazon.com : Automotive Jtech 6x 194 168 2825 T10 5-SMD White LED Car Lights Bulb Super Bright : Amazon.com : Automotive
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 11:15 PM
  #69  
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Thanks for the link, ill check em out for sure. Definately something i need to get around to doing.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 07:55 PM
  #70  
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Not much of an update, but ive got some pics so what the hell. Pile of parts is getting bigger, albeit alot slower than I would like.



Pretty decent score from my latest trip to boise. New brakes, rear re-geared / rebuilt by Bucks 4x4. Front is a D50 going to regear it with the gears out of my TTB (3.73 in the SD axle) Trans "slipped a little when warm" Aamco thought it was the converter, out of a 95 PSD w/ 136k

 
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 07:29 PM
  #71  
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Lookes like you're getting there. Good to see back on this bad boy.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 10:00 PM
  #72  
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Never left it, but since the GF moved in ive had alot less expendable income as it were...
 
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