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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:03 PM
  #46  
'94IDITurbo7.3's Avatar
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
I have my regulator return plumbed into the primary filterhead pre-pump.
good to know.....
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 10:25 PM
  #47  
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Better late than never

Not pictured is my fan controller, I opted to try the cheap route first. So with a $60 controller from O'Reillys I simply used the fan power wires from the controller to activate my relays. Stuck the coolant sensor in the spot for the idiot light. Controller activates both fans as one, kicks on at 215 off at 200 and with AC. Single speed. Also not picutured is the lift pump block off plate. Nothing special just cut it from some 3/16" i had laying around.




Auxillary fuse box i snagged while at the junk yard. Out of a 90s exploder, the shape seemed like it would be easy to fit so i snagged it.


96 Windstar fans -- Having that ugly *** filter tower out makes me feel alot better.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 11:30 PM
  #48  
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Its looking good man. How did you end up wiring the fuse box? Also did you notice any power difference with the heavy mechanical fan taken off?
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 12:10 AM
  #49  
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Not a huge power difference, noticable i think but nothing like "oh wow", however i did notice it is much quieter, almost 2mpg improvement and cooler egts so definately a load off the engine.

For wiring the fuse box, basically i just stuck a ring terminal on the big power cable coming off of it, and stuck it on the existing fuse box and crossed my fingers that the 8ga or w/ever it is factory is enough to handle the extra load. As for the fuse box internally, finally after half an hour of looking through books and boxes at NAPA we found some connectors that would clip in to the box. Only thing i dont like is there is no spot for regular fuses, only Maxi fuses and mini fuses... hate them stupid mini's but oh well. Lots of maxi fuse slots and 5 or 6 relay spots so it should handle anything i care to add down the road like headlight relays and maybe a provision for water/meth injection.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 01:11 AM
  #50  
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Have you done much driving or pulling with the fans yet? I have the same exact fan setup going on soon and I am curious as to their ability to cool.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 03:34 AM
  #51  
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Driving yes, pulling no. If youre familiar with Marsing grade it went up just fine, i was rodding it and even towards the top the fans were dropping the temp once they kicked on.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 08:48 AM
  #52  
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looking good.adding an additional fuse/relay box (es) like that is really something i should do as well.iv got so many aux fuse holders and relays now,that it's really a mess lol.nice job!
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 09:52 AM
  #53  
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Are the fans wired to run whenever the A/C is on? Or is it wired with a high pressure switch? Seems like a high pressure switch would be ideal, but unless one could be screwed onto a charge port you'd have to evacuate the system.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 10:57 AM
  #54  
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Kinda off topic, but how do you like the ev2's? Just noticed you had them on the first page
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 02:17 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
Driving yes, pulling no. If youre familiar with Marsing grade it went up just fine, i was rodding it and even towards the top the fans were dropping the temp once they kicked on.
Oh yeah. Been out there a lot, most of my family is out of Marsing. My bronco won't be hauling heavy loads and that's why I decided to go ahead with the fans. Overkill on the cooling shouldn't be needed for a hunting rig that occasionally hauls a small boat. If you don't mind, I'll just copy everything you did now that you've tested it .
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 03:00 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
looking good.adding an additional fuse/relay box (es) like that is really something i should do as well.iv got so many aux fuse holders and relays now,that it's really a mess lol.nice job!
That is pretty much what i was hoping to avoid, i hate having wires and fuses everywhere. Want to keep it nice and clean / easy to work on.

Originally Posted by therifleman556
Are the fans wired to run whenever the A/C is on? Or is it wired with a high pressure switch? Seems like a high pressure switch would be ideal, but unless one could be screwed onto a charge port you'd have to evacuate the system.
Actually, the wire taps into the compressor clutch wire. So the fans only run when the compressor is running. AKA should be like the high pressure switch you mentioned i would think, not overly familiar with HVAC.

Originally Posted by southtexasidi
Kinda off topic, but how do you like the ev2's? Just noticed you had them on the first page
At first i was dissapointed, they are stepper gauges, so instead of a fluid movement they "step". Not overly noticable, but when running a 40psi boost gauge for 10-12 psi (planning ahead) you can notice it twitch around. The guages fit the autometer pod really well, but it didnt fit my pickup as good as i hoped. The glowshift pod fit the truck good, but doesnt hold the gauges tight.... Anywho, currently running 0-20 fuel psi, 0-40 boost, 0-1500 pyro, and 0-250 trans temp.

Originally Posted by Brant Bowrifle
If you don't mind, I'll just copy everything you did now that you've tested it .
Go for it, i copied the few other guys that done it and tested it out. I didnt destroy the factory shroud because i figured worst case scenario i could put it back on. The e-fans shroud isnt "square" so i cut off the lower bracket on the one side, and had to space out the top and bottome on the other. There is about a 1" gap on the side you have to space out, planning to fill that with something, not sure one what yet.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 07:43 PM
  #57  
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More good news, just found a guy that has 2 2001 D60s w/ 3.73s, so ill be picking one up at the first of the month for my 92.

On that note, anyone familiar with the differences in the front and rears of the SD trucks vs. ours im listening. I know they have metric bolt patterns, which doesnt concern me. The unit bearing hub assembly is not an issue either. However im not familiar with what steering parts i will need, and if the spring width is the same ( i beleive it is).

In short im looking to update the axles, brakes, and maybe eventually the trans and t-case. Bring on disc brakes in the rear.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 08:05 PM
  #58  
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for the rear axle.....the shock mounts on the axle need to be moved...sorry don't remember if it is in or out. the spring perches also need to be moved.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 06:34 AM
  #59  
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I could be wrong, but weren't the solid axles in 2001 still technically D50's? Not that it matters much, the only big difference is the axle shafts. The leafs up front should be the same width. Are you gonna use SD leaf springs or run the OBS ones?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 01:51 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by southtexasidi
I could be wrong, but weren't the solid axles in 2001 still technically D50's? Not that it matters much, the only big difference is the axle shafts. The leafs up front should be the same width. Are you gonna use SD leaf springs or run the OBS ones?
The 250s might be 50s, but im 98% sure the F350s are D60. I was thinking the springs were the same width as well. Since the SD are longer than the OBS springs, ill probably just run stock OBS springs. and see where that gets me.

Anyone know what year they went to the really heavy duty brakes? Im thinking 99-05 stuff is better than ours, but in 07 or so they went pretty crazy. However now that i think about it, im pretty sure they went coil front at the same time...
 
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