Instrument Fuster Cluck
#1
Instrument Fuster Cluck
Have a '95 F-150 with the off-road package. Bought it last year from San Juan County for $1200. Been straightening it up here and there (bought it to be used just when we need a truck, not a daily driver), finally got around to doing the interior. As with most Fords of the era, the column shifter is sloppy and the indicator is pretty useless in telling you what gear the truck really is in. Along with about 5-6 bulbs being burned out, I decided last weekend to fix all the issues.
Got the "PRNDL" indicator out of a '95 in the local 'yard. Came home, took the cluster out (pulled the 3 connectors on the back), replaced the bulbs, pulled the cover lens, cleaned the dust & dirt off the gauges and the back of said lens.
Hooked it all back up, secured it all down, and fired it up. Did a quick drive, the speedo is bouncing all over and in gear (forward or reverse) at low speed or standing still, the truck starts stumbling and sometimes stalling completely.
Today I pulled it all back out, cleaned the connectors and connection spots, re-assembled and no change. Frustrated with this, so I must have missed something in this repair process that is Ford-specific.
Any ideas? If there is one thing I do not like so far with this truck it is the electrical/electronics. Everything else is really well done (Although I do hear the OD tranny is a PITA, if it goes out do NOT use Ford parts, have somebody well versed in them rebuild it), and I like the truck.
Any help is greatly appreciated
Got the "PRNDL" indicator out of a '95 in the local 'yard. Came home, took the cluster out (pulled the 3 connectors on the back), replaced the bulbs, pulled the cover lens, cleaned the dust & dirt off the gauges and the back of said lens.
Hooked it all back up, secured it all down, and fired it up. Did a quick drive, the speedo is bouncing all over and in gear (forward or reverse) at low speed or standing still, the truck starts stumbling and sometimes stalling completely.
Today I pulled it all back out, cleaned the connectors and connection spots, re-assembled and no change. Frustrated with this, so I must have missed something in this repair process that is Ford-specific.
Any ideas? If there is one thing I do not like so far with this truck it is the electrical/electronics. Everything else is really well done (Although I do hear the OD tranny is a PITA, if it goes out do NOT use Ford parts, have somebody well versed in them rebuild it), and I like the truck.
Any help is greatly appreciated
#3
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I don't have a real answer for the speedo issue, I have seen the dancing speedo issue myself and the only fix that worked for me was to replace the speedo portion with another... the individual gauges unplug from the cluster assembly from the front. Maybe those connectors need a little cleaning or maybe the speedo itself has become demagnetized.. I have read there is a way to recharge it but haven't tried doing it.
Some people have problems with the auto OD transmissions in these trucks, but many of those people fail to realize that these things are completely computer controlled and try to fix it like a mechanical trans. Problem is the computer is programmed to protect the trans if it loses a major sensor input so in many cases there's nothing wrong with the trans and people spend all kinds of money repairing and replacing it when all they had to do was pull the codes and change a $50 sensor... or fix some rodent chewed wiring.
You will also find the quality of Ford electronics is far superior to anything you will buy aftermarket, I routinely pull TFI ignition modules off junkyard cars because these used parts with unknown miles routinely outlast brand new aftermarket parts.
Some people have problems with the auto OD transmissions in these trucks, but many of those people fail to realize that these things are completely computer controlled and try to fix it like a mechanical trans. Problem is the computer is programmed to protect the trans if it loses a major sensor input so in many cases there's nothing wrong with the trans and people spend all kinds of money repairing and replacing it when all they had to do was pull the codes and change a $50 sensor... or fix some rodent chewed wiring.
You will also find the quality of Ford electronics is far superior to anything you will buy aftermarket, I routinely pull TFI ignition modules off junkyard cars because these used parts with unknown miles routinely outlast brand new aftermarket parts.
#4
I would make sure you got the connectors correct and in the right pin spots.
Here is the back of a cluster w/o tach. I have put numbers in the correct pin spots. If you need settings with a Tach I have those to. If you look very closely you will see the numbers or some numbers. They can be hard to see. """When changing bulbs, wipe with alcohol cloth. The oil on your fingers will make them burn out faster"""
Also make sure you installed the cluster with the speed needle on "0"
Incorrectly installed if needle is on 90
I hope that resolves your problem. If not it could be your speed sensor. To set the computer you must drive about 20 miles after you disconnect the battery.
Here is the back of a cluster w/o tach. I have put numbers in the correct pin spots. If you need settings with a Tach I have those to. If you look very closely you will see the numbers or some numbers. They can be hard to see. """When changing bulbs, wipe with alcohol cloth. The oil on your fingers will make them burn out faster"""
Also make sure you installed the cluster with the speed needle on "0"
Incorrectly installed if needle is on 90
I hope that resolves your problem. If not it could be your speed sensor. To set the computer you must drive about 20 miles after you disconnect the battery.
#5
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#8
I just replaced the "PRNDL" section. Thinking back, I most probably laid it flat- didn't see a warning label. Dagnabit!
Subford- thank you for that info, will be doing that here in the next few days
Bootmaker- the needle was flat on 0, was paranoid about the connections and double checked them. we cleaned the contact points and connectors as well.
I appreciate all the help, hate to think I have to pull a cluster apart to straighten mine out, but you have to do what has to get done!
Subford- thank you for that info, will be doing that here in the next few days
Bootmaker- the needle was flat on 0, was paranoid about the connections and double checked them. we cleaned the contact points and connectors as well.
I appreciate all the help, hate to think I have to pull a cluster apart to straighten mine out, but you have to do what has to get done!
#9
I have laid mine on the face with no issues. The mileage is held in the cluster. I was going to put a 93 into my 92 because it has a tachometer. It also has 20,000 extra miles on it. I figured I would wait till I have those 20,000 to install it with the tachometer. I could then sell my other two clusters.
I am betting that your wheel speed sensor is not working but someone else may know better. I know when I go 4 wheeling and my wheels spin when I hit slippery surfaces my cruise control gets thrown off and it requires 20 miles of even driving to fix it.
I am betting that your wheel speed sensor is not working but someone else may know better. I know when I go 4 wheeling and my wheels spin when I hit slippery surfaces my cruise control gets thrown off and it requires 20 miles of even driving to fix it.
#10
I have laid mine on the face with no issues. The mileage is held in the cluster. I was going to put a 93 into my 92 because it has a tachometer. It also has 20,000 extra miles on it. I figured I would wait till I have those 20,000 to install it with the tachometer. I could then sell my other two clusters.
I am betting that your wheel speed sensor is not working but someone else may know better. I know when I go 4 wheeling and my wheels spin when I hit slippery surfaces my cruise control gets thrown off and it requires 20 miles of even driving to fix it.
I am betting that your wheel speed sensor is not working but someone else may know better. I know when I go 4 wheeling and my wheels spin when I hit slippery surfaces my cruise control gets thrown off and it requires 20 miles of even driving to fix it.
Laying the cluster down on it's face for a few min will not hurt them, I had one face down for a few weeks with no issues.
#11
Got the "PRNDL" indicator out of a '95 in the local 'yard. Came home, took the cluster out (pulled the 3 connectors on the back), replaced the bulbs, pulled the cover lens, cleaned the dust & dirt off the gauges and the back of said lens.
Hooked it all back up, secured it all down, and fired it up. Did a quick drive, the speedo is bouncing all over and in gear (forward or reverse) at low speed or standing still, the truck starts stumbling and sometimes stalling completely.
Today I pulled it all back out, cleaned the connectors and connection spots, re-assembled and no change.
Hooked it all back up, secured it all down, and fired it up. Did a quick drive, the speedo is bouncing all over and in gear (forward or reverse) at low speed or standing still, the truck starts stumbling and sometimes stalling completely.
Today I pulled it all back out, cleaned the connectors and connection spots, re-assembled and no change.
The "PRNOD1" indicators are common from 92 to 96 clusters so you don't have to find a specific year truck. Don't you love that brittle plastic holder on the column, that's usually where the problem occures with the indicator not showing correctly. It snaps and mungs up the works....
#12
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