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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 06:29 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by dualwheels66
Yep we were at Knoebels been going there for 25 years. It's a nice family run campground/amusement park. Way cheaper than other amusement parks and the food is better.
Very cool. My wife use to go there when she was little. I never went there until my little one was old enough for the rides. So we have been going there since 2009. We make the ride out from Northern NJ at least 2 times a year if not more. My wife thought I had grown a second head when I told her I was never there growing up. My parents like the fact they don't have to pay to get in. That works out perfect for my dad as he doesn't really do rides. Besides how many places can you go that has a ton of rides of the little ones for a real cheap price. Added bonus insanely good park food that is reasonably priced!

We would have been up there last weekend but at J and D's right down the road. However we had to cancel since my wife was sick. She said she was bummed we were not able to go and she knew what it meant for me to take the truck and trailer out for a real road trip.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 09:19 AM
  #32  
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[/IMG][/IMG]
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 09:22 AM
  #33  
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 09:29 AM
  #34  
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 03:20 PM
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 03:22 PM
  #36  
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Ok so there it is finally.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 03:26 PM
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You can hardly tell that is a green cap on a blue truck. It's only temporary until I order the one I really want. Anyone want a Leer cap?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 09:09 PM
  #38  
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Nice looking rig! The cap is the wrong color! LOL
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 05:27 AM
  #39  
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What about just getting the cap painted? I had an earl scheib paint job done to the cap I had on my 2000, cheap and matched the truck!

Nice looking setup btw!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 05:54 AM
  #40  
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I love the cap itself but the rack is too small for a ladder over 24' or for carrying any lumber over 12' long. I like how the body lines of the cap flow with the truck. Being a contractor I need function rather then form. I did get a price of $475 from Maaco to paint the cap but I will use that 475 toward the new cap.
Last night I put on my window visors and back up lights. These trucks are getting really complicated for adding lighting. The Body Guide says not to tie in any extra lights into existing lighting circuits. I wasn't able to wire my back up lights directly to my existing reverse lights. When I would put it in reverse I had no reverse lights or my extra back up light. I had to run the back up lights to #3 upfitter switch. While I was under the truck I noticed a wire designated for the 3rd brake light for the cap, so Ford does not want you to tap into the existing wiring behind the stop light. There are a bunch of wires under the dash, besides the upfitter wires, for other wiring needs, I just have to figure out what they are for, some are constant hot some are not.
Still on the install list is the 12v air compressor, CB, and other lights I use to work at night.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 06:11 AM
  #41  
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When you figure out where that bunch of wires go under the dash let me know, I would like to find one that is hot when the ignition is on so I can run my aux fuel tank gauge from it instead of from the up lifter switches.

Denny
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 07:38 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by dualwheels66
I love the cap itself but the rack is too small for a ladder over 24' or for carrying any lumber over 12' long. I like how the body lines of the cap flow with the truck. Being a contractor I need function rather then form. I did get a price of $475 from Maaco to paint the cap but I will use that 475 toward the new cap.
That's significantly more than I paid to have mine painted, I'd have done the same thing had it been that much and put it towards a new one.

Originally Posted by rvpuller
When you figure out where that bunch of wires go under the dash let me know, I would like to find one that is hot when the ignition is on so I can run my aux fuel tank gauge from it instead of from the up lifter switches.

Denny
Just about anything off the pass. fuse box is hot only when the key is on. 5 minutes with a test light and a mini fuse tap and you'll be set.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 11:12 AM
  #43  
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I became a member of this site only for this thread!!

I currently own a 06 6.0 F350 dually. I pull a couple different trailers. One being an enclosed car hauler, another being a small fishing boat. The current truck pulls everything and does everything I could ever ask of it. The power is incredible (few mods). The bad is the cost of ownership. This has eaten easily 10 grand since i've owned it... Just to much money ...

So I've been considering your combination. An f350 with the 6.2.. I've heard good things about the motor and love that you have a blogg started so that we can follow the progress. Hopefully more people will jump on board!

Only downside is I want the platinum version with ALL the bells and whistles so it will be a few years before I do anything. Still need to learn!

Heres a smiley for you haha
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 09:06 PM
  #44  
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Denny, when you pull that cover off under the steering wheel, you will see a group of about 8 to 10 wires. Those are not the upfitters. The upfitters are higher up almost as high as the headlight switch. You need a rubber neck to see them. That group of 10 wires has a large tag on the bundle. I need to decode what the tag codes mean.
I did put a test light on some of them and a few were hot with the key in the ACC position. I'm just not sure how they are fused and what they are for. I imagine some are for aftermarket body companies but I would like to find some kind of schematic.
Those days of tapping off the fuse box might be gone because of the sensitivity of the circuits. Example I took out the driver side tail light and tested for the hot wire for my aux. back up lights. I started the truck set the emergency brake, shifted to reverse and tested to see which was the hot wire. As soon as I did that the factory reverse lights went out and my aux back up lights did not work. I tried this 3 times thinking i was seeing things. I would have to shut off the truck and wait a couple of minutes and then restart and then the factory reverse lights would work. It was as if the computer sensed too much voltage and shut off power, weird. I did the simple thing and tied them into upfitter #3.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 10:03 PM
  #45  
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I did a little digging around and I found a schematic for the bundle of wires you are talking about. https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...iring_v1-1.pdf look at pages 26 to the end. I think the WT-BL will work for my gauge, page 29.

Denny
 
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