Autometer guages
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Freshman User
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Autometer guages
So I picked up my auto meter ultra lite carbon fibre guages today. They're actually nicer than I expected I think they'll look great. Pyro, boost and fuel pressure. I saved $180 bucks on them because the parts guys know me and hooked up a huge discount. Anyhow, I'm wondering where you guys are drilling for egt probe if its manifolds or just pre turbo ect. I want a fairly accesible spot to drill and tap. Does it matter if its in drivers manifold vs passenger side mani?
As for boost, I havent touched my wastegate, what do you guys figure I'll see for boost? Seems to fluctuate with what I've read on here
As for boost, I havent touched my wastegate, what do you guys figure I'll see for boost? Seems to fluctuate with what I've read on here
Elder User
Joined: May 2011
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From: Bellefontaine, OH
From what I have been told manifold is not the best place to put a pyro (I had mine there and I think it's a bit to close to the cylinders) it should be in your Y pipe right after it collects together pre-turbo
As for your boost depends on the engine and what you have done to it but usually no more than 14psi
As for your boost depends on the engine and what you have done to it but usually no more than 14psi
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
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From: Western Mass
Manifold is the best place.... you want to be as close to the pistons as possible. The point is to keep the pistons from melting and the closer you get, the more accurate the temp that you see.
This has been covered dozens of times. Generally its recommended to put the probe in the drivers side exhaust manifold pointing into the last cylinder. If you search you'll find threads with pictures. Side to side doesn't really matter, but its easier and shorter on the wires if you do drivers side.
This has been covered dozens of times. Generally its recommended to put the probe in the drivers side exhaust manifold pointing into the last cylinder. If you search you'll find threads with pictures. Side to side doesn't really matter, but its easier and shorter on the wires if you do drivers side.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Manifold is the best place.... you want to be as close to the pistons as possible. The point is to keep the pistons from melting and the closer you get, the more accurate the temp that you see.
This has been covered dozens of times. Generally its recommended to put the probe in the drivers side exhaust manifold pointing into the last cylinder. If you search you'll find threads with pictures. Side to side doesn't really matter, but its easier and shorter on the wires if you do drivers side.
This has been covered dozens of times. Generally its recommended to put the probe in the drivers side exhaust manifold pointing into the last cylinder. If you search you'll find threads with pictures. Side to side doesn't really matter, but its easier and shorter on the wires if you do drivers side.
What he said, definitely not in the ypipe.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
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My eft probe is in the middle of the drivers side manifold. As for boost, I you haven't played with the WG you'll prolly see 7-8 psi. Hard to tell until you get the gauge hooked up. Plug the gate or adjust the rod if you want more boost
Elder User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 973
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From: Bellefontaine, OH
It's only a couple degrees difference and if you are only running one head and you happen to have one or two cylinders on one side messing up and getting hot you could melt the pistons on one side that is why the general poll is directly in the y pipe so you are receiving a reading from both sides of the block not just one
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Washington
Just put a pyro in my and there is a nice spot on the back side of the driver's side manifold, think it actually ended up between the last 2 cyl. The drill went straight down next to the clutch master.
Before drilling I pulled the crossover pipe off, drilled taped, then started the engine to blow any chips out.
Before drilling I pulled the crossover pipe off, drilled taped, then started the engine to blow any chips out.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,101
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From: Poway, CA
greasing the snot out of the tap (assuming you'll be threading the manifold) works well, too.
Mike
Mike
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Freshman User
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I tackled the guages today, frustrating day. I'm waiting on the boost guage so I just took care of pyro and fuel pressure. Fuel pressure guage came with nonw of the fitting I needed and I had to go buy several feet of line for it. Drilled pyro into manifold between cyl 6 & 8, pyro kit was better equipped. Next was the triple pillar and fitting the guages. The gauge was a tight squeeze into the pod which is how it should be. Took lots of force to get the guage flush with the plastic. The worst thing was trying to thread on the plastic sleeve that fits on the back of the guage once its in the pod. To thread the far nut on it took some filing and I still didnt end up being able to get one on. The pillar does fit on nicely though, that was a positive. End of the rant, I just expected it to be designed better.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Next was the triple pillar and fitting the guages. The gauge was a tight squeeze into the pod which is how it should be. Took lots of force to get the guage flush with the plastic. The worst thing was trying to thread on the plastic sleeve that fits on the back of the guage once its in the pod. To thread the far nut on it took some filing and I still didnt end up being able to get one on. The pillar does fit on nicely though, that was a positive. End of the rant, I just expected it to be designed better.
i used glow shifts triple pod.you experienced this tight gauge issue with auto meters pod or did you go with glow shifts?
if you find you can't get one on at all,cut one of sides/ears off.one side holds it in plenty.this is what i had to do.not sure if i ever did get a bottom one on at all though,but i thought this was because of all my extra switches/wiring iv got going on in mine making the issue even worse.
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[QUOTE=FORDF250HDXLT;13130860]i had the same issue with my auto meter z-series.they make their gauges really deep is the problem.
i used glow shifts triple pod.you experienced this tight gauge issue with auto meters pod or did you go with glow shifts?
if you find you can't get one on at all,cut one of sides/ears off.one side holds it in plenty.this is what i had to do.not sure if i ever did get a bottom one on at all though,but i thought this was because of all my extra switches/wiring iv got going on in mine making the issue even worse.
Autometer ultra lites in an auto meter triple pod pillar. I'll just force them flush and only tighten the top thumb nut. It shouldn't move at all, I'm just complaining about the terrible design. The pillar does look and fit good on the truck but they went fashion over function which was a **** off
i used glow shifts triple pod.you experienced this tight gauge issue with auto meters pod or did you go with glow shifts?
if you find you can't get one on at all,cut one of sides/ears off.one side holds it in plenty.this is what i had to do.not sure if i ever did get a bottom one on at all though,but i thought this was because of all my extra switches/wiring iv got going on in mine making the issue even worse.
Autometer ultra lites in an auto meter triple pod pillar. I'll just force them flush and only tighten the top thumb nut. It shouldn't move at all, I'm just complaining about the terrible design. The pillar does look and fit good on the truck but they went fashion over function which was a **** off
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Freshman User
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Guages got fully hooked up and fired the truck up. Waited for a while and no fuel pressure reading or pyro temp. I played with the pyro connnection and the guage would go crazy. Tore off the shrink wrap from where probe connections meet the longer wire going to the guage. Checked that they were tight and taped em up with elec. tape. That solved the problem, went driving for a while. Wow does it get hot pulling a hill! Anyways that worked for a while
I parked it and when I went to drive it again the guage went whack. Needle just flickers all over. Drove it and it stopped after 10 mins then the needle would flicker when Id hit a bump ect. The wire from the guage was reaaally long so I doubled it back over itself and taped it up, could that be an issue.
Fuel pressure it T'd off on the third port down the filter, scrader valve being the first. After driving the guage slowly moved to 2 psi and stayed there even when pulling a hill or on the flats.
I parked it and when I went to drive it again the guage went whack. Needle just flickers all over. Drove it and it stopped after 10 mins then the needle would flicker when Id hit a bump ect. The wire from the guage was reaaally long so I doubled it back over itself and taped it up, could that be an issue.
Fuel pressure it T'd off on the third port down the filter, scrader valve being the first. After driving the guage slowly moved to 2 psi and stayed there even when pulling a hill or on the flats.
