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May 1, 2013 | 11:03 AM

#16

fmc400

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Joined: Apr 2004

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From: Austin, TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by tylert1976

FMC--I could not perform the original test you described because, when checking my ignition switch, the housing was damaged and would no longer function as it should. Therefore, I could not even use the test light on the "s" terminal to check if any voltage was getting there. I will buy the housing ASAP, and try that.

I'm confused. If the ignition switch is damaged such that it prevents you from turning the key to START, how are you attempting to start the truck such that you know it won't start? Are you saying that the ignition switch was damaged in between now and the time at which the problem started?

Either way, if your ignition switch is damaged such that it cannot even be actuated, then yes, you'll want to replace that first.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tylert1976

I also have to check the neutral safety switch.

As I described in my previous post, this is essentially what I'm asking you to do. If you get voltage at the 'S' post of the solenoid, that proves out both the ignition switch and the NSS. If not, the next step is to go upstream and find where power is falling off.

May 1, 2013 | 11:22 AM

#17

tylert1976

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FMC--
Yes, the housing fell apart yesterday, so after the original post. I just wanted to pull it off and check it. The plastic was brittle and some of it broke off. The biggest problem is that the spring inside the mechanism keeps popping out of place which make the cylinder seize.

I rigged it together enough last night that it should hold for the test today, but I will need to replace it as I am not confident that the Macgyvered version of the will continue to function.

I have a neighbor with a multimeter that I can borrow--so if there is no voltage when running your test, the NSS is not functioning?

May 1, 2013 | 12:33 PM

#18

jas88

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From: Greater Austin, Texas

FYI you can get a multimeter that will do the job at Harbor Freight for about $4.

May 1, 2013 | 02:32 PM

#19

tylert1976

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Will do Jas.

May 1, 2013 | 06:46 PM

#20

tylert1976

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NNS is the culprit. When I put in the turn signal, I also had to replace the flex coupler because it had corroded. The up and down movement of the column put the NSS behind the pin, so the truck thought it was in gear all of the time. I just loosened the screws holding the NSS and repositioned it.

I had to hold the old ignition switch with together in one hand while cranking it over, but it never did start. Will a faulty ignition switch keep the car from starting? It also seemed that the wires going into the plug (ig sw plug)could be loose from their connectors.

FMC, I should have thought simple as you suggested from the beginning.

Thanks for all of the help, guys. It should be running tomorrow when I can get back out there.