I have a manual choke on my 1965 F100 2-BBL carburetor. I pulled out the choke which closed the butterfly, but the truck would just kick over and sound like it wanted to start but just would not. For the heck of it I pushed the choke **** all the way in which held the butterfly fully open. It then started right away and idled fine. I thought to start a cold engine the butterfly must be all the way closed? What happened?

 

Some people never run a choke , its a cold weather device to help draw fuel into the manifold. Here in the land of cold [ it snowed last night ] its a must have.

 

Maybe has to get real cold to have to use it. Maybe not cold enough here in California then.

 

Lucky you, gas is not atomized when it and the metallic passage-ways through which it must flow are cold, plus the low vacuum signal makes the choke a must have in Mich.

 

Nobody knows how to run a hand choke any more!
Pull the choke and turn the engine over just enough to get the gas to the cylinders, then push it in a ways so the engine gets some air. If you just jerk the choke and spin the engine, it will flood and won't run.
How much choke, and how long to hold it, is something you have to learn for each engine, they are all different.
I just disconnect the choke and pump the gas to richen the mix. You have to nurse the engine for a minute to keep it running when there is no choke.

 

The 65 F100 with the 302 rarely, if ever, use the choke. The 65 with the 390 was a bugger to start on a cold winter morning and required using the choke until upgraded to Electronic Ignition.

 

No 390's factory installed in F100/350's until 1968, no 302's factory installed in F100's until 1969.

Only V8 available in 1965/67 F100/350's: 352 2V / No DuraSpark electronic ignition until 1974.

 

Yes, this has a 352 2V in it. Thanks for the help as I now know what I was doing wrong even though I went by what the owners manual said to do. Had it pulled out all the way and it was just cranking over without anything else. Pushed it in and it started right up. Maybe a happy medium on cold mornings and nothing at all when warmer temps.

 

You are suppose to adjust the choke stroke at the carb so the choke does not fully shut off all air when pulled completely out. I adjust mine to allow at least a 1/4 inch maybe a 3/8 inch gap so it gets at least some air to start.

Each of my three trucks... 62, 66 red and 66 white require a different amount of choke. The 2 big eights both have to suck gas at idle with 1/2 inch pull on the choke for a full minute before they are happy enough to take off and run properly in traffic.

I once had a 58 with an after market add on water jacket heater. That was when I was stationed in upstate NY and it sure was nice, plug in overnight and have heat/defrost and a warm engine in the coldest of weather. I have often wondered if it would save money to heat the engines overnight vice run so much gas through them while they warm up.

 

Ya know, I'll just bet,,, in the morning, get in and pump the gas 3 times and let off the pedal completely. Than hit the ignition. I'll bet it starts right up. By pumping it 3 times, you put raw fuel in, AND by letting off the pedel all the way, you are using the throttle blade as a chock. You should only need that chock in cold weather. After it start up, you may only need to 'lightly' pump on the throttle to keep it running at first.
A cold engine need lots of fuel to keep it running until it gets hot enough to vaporize the fuel to get that ideal 14/1 - Air/Fuel ratio. Or at least close to it. By leaving the choke on like you did, you were flooding the engine.
Like someone mentioned above, you would only need the choke to fire it up and then back it off and most likely only on very cold days.

OR stick a very expensive MSD throttle body fuel injection unit on it...

 

Many carb set-ups have a fast idle cam to open the throttle a bit (butterflys at base of carb) which are used in conjunction with the choke. Mashing the gas pedal takes the fast idle cam off position. The proper way to start a manual choke carb with fast idle cam: Mash the gas pedal 2-4 times then let off; pull the choke control out; start the engine, when it catches feather the choke control to maintain idle ---do not mash the gas pedal as that disengages the fast idle cam; slowly push the choke in as the engine warms. When 20 degrees takes a while, when 55 degrees the whole process should take less than a minute.

 

I most often have to choke my 50 , 52 and 53 . Takes a bit of know how if not use to it . Growing up with hand chokes, I have very little problem using them .Each is different , but all work the same .My TO 20 is especially strange . She is hormonal I think . But at 63 years old, she should be .