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Rear shock top mount

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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by sammatt1
Thats a great idea. How thick was the tubing wall?

I might give that a shot if I cant find these bar pins. Thanks.
Originally Posted by WE3ZS
Not sure of the wall thickness off the top of my head, it's structural steel tubing that I use to fab the bumpers and rub rails on my son's QuarterMidget racecars. pretty tough stuff, I'll check the thickness tonight when I get home.
Originally Posted by Nicmike
I just replaced my shocks. South Texas, no rust and OEM shocks came off. You are welcome to the pins out of my old OEM ones. PM me if interested.
Originally Posted by Nicmike
I was able to get them out without boogering them up too much. The lip on one side of one tore a little.

Attachment 72334

Nicmike gets the reps, his take offs look a lot better than my home made ones. I finally got a chance to check the wall thickness today, .065", they aint pretty but they did work.
 
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Old May 3, 2013 | 06:02 PM
  #17  
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Just a quick update......in case it might come in handy for some folks.

Bought a pair of new rear shock top mount from Summit Racing that came in a few days ago. They were only $4.90 for the pair including the bushings. These are for the SkyJacker shocks.

 
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Old May 3, 2013 | 06:57 PM
  #18  
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If anybody else in the rust belt needs my take-offs, they can have them. I'll have them on the shelf...
 
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Old Sep 25, 2017 | 05:02 PM
  #19  
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I know this is an old thread, but it helped me out a lot.

First issue is that I accidently bought a set of rear shocks for a 99-04 F250. They don't have a bar pin on the top - I used these bushing/pins from Summit and they fit perfectly into the F250 shocks.

The second thing is that I broke two of the retaining "nuts" on the top mount by over tightening - not hard to do, especially when reusing those pathetically flimsy sheet metal j-nuts (not a rant at all). So I decided to look for another solutions that is at least grade 5, but preferable grade 8. I found these - the only issue is that they are 3/8 instead of the M8 thread on OE hardware. I didn't mind since I'll reuse them probably for the life of the vehicle. For some reason there are no cage nuts in metric/machine screw that are not sheet metal.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GUEZI6A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GUEZI6A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Type-Cage-Nuts-Screw-Size/dp/B0040CVQ66/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1506376837&sr=1-9&keywords=3%2F8-16+cage+nuts https://www.amazon.com/Type-Cage-Nuts-Screw-Size/dp/B0040CVQ66/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1506376837&sr=1-9&keywords=3%2F8-16+cage+nuts
 
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