Maybe Now you have replaced the EBP sensor you need to do the Turbo RELEARN Process

Im not shure whats involved
Might be the Case you unhook batterys for 15minutes with the Headlights on to dump any residule power and reset the PCM/KAM

Do a search on here I know others have done it and I might be telling you wrong IDK

But Unhook Bats with headlights on will reset things and Wont Hurt anything

 

Maybe it was Trans relearn I just saw that in a Quick skim of the tech folder

I thought there was turbo relearn to IDK

Here is some good turbo info

https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...er%20Guide.pdf

 

In therory here BARO,MAP,EBP should all be the Same at KOEO (Key On Engine Off)
All these^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ are just pressure sensors so at KOEO the Engine or Turbo will have NO Effect on there readings

Maybe its the SGII IDK Lets try EBPVolts gauge

EP Volts (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AE
RXF: 0462451606AE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100800000
NAM: EPV
Note: This one may have weird readings if the values get to high, let me know.

here is FORD EBPVolts specs
EBP_V 0.8 1.2 1.3 0.4 - 4.7 VOLT Exhaust Pressure

You KOEO EBP Numbers are closer now but still around 2 psi off and IDK why other then maybe a Wire problem

It was VGT Relearn

Iv seen it mentioned alot but havent found the exact procedure to do it

Here is all I have on the VGT

VGT SILINOID TROUBLESHOOT
There definitely should be a noticeable difference when the VGT actuator is plugged in or not. If you have access to a wiring pigtail, (exactly identical to that of a 7.3L injector or IPR connector), you can test this out yourself, by holding it up to 1200 RPMs in PARK or NEUTRAL and supplying your own power and ground directly to the actuator via a pigtail connector. When you do this, you should hear the turbo spool up almost immediately, and stop when you remove the power and ground supply. If it does not, the VGT actuator is bad. By doing this, you elimate the need to get your hands on a scan tool to take active command of the actuator.


With the New EBP sensor maybe its close enough and you may just need to clean turbo IDK But throwing it all out at you so maybe the next step will be easier to make fore you


The CHA CHA CHA when you let off throttle is OverBoost and can come from Dirty turbo

I guess will see if the DTC returns or not it may take a few drive cycles to set a DTC However its emmissions DTC so those should set Imediatly

 

im due for a cleaning of my egr. ive been cleaning it around every 10k miles, and its that time now.

 

Guess I will take a Chance here

Dirty Turbo is Likly Culprit Now overboost is Classic symtom of that

As Long as the CEL dont come back on Im thinking Dirty Turbo at this Point Because the New EBP Sensor Brought the Number LOTS Closer to where it should be

Why
#1 is in your First post or even 2 (I didnt look at ALL) you made NO Mention Of Turbo OverBoost the CHA--CHA--CHA Sound you get NOW

#2 Is the Cha-Cha- Cha sound was NOT Mentioned till new EBP SEnsor was installed
{Even at 10psi if RPM Not Fast enough nowhere for air to go}

#3 Is You said you had the CEL ON For Along time!!

So While the PCM Detected High EBP reading it was Holding the Veins of turbo in 1 Position most of the Time Trying to cut back on Boost Pressure since it Read HIGH EBP

#4 maybe with the new EBP the PCM Moved the Veins into a Sooted Position Farther OUT to generate Boost Now it could see Lower EBP then they got stuck

The veins Im thinking didnt move alot and got stuck Regaurdless


Might be a Classic Examplle of Putting a Problem Off and that created More Problems

 

Hey Benny,

Thanks for all the help. I just realized that you had wrote posts above my previous. I hadnt seen those when i last checked. I'll program my scangauge and see what it reads. Also, i have VGT programmed in there and before I changed the ebp it would range from 14 to about 84. Looks like i might be doing a turbo cleaning in the near future. It doesnt look too difficult, thats surely better than replacing the turbo though

 

Ya when your on here Hit refresh then you can see the New Posts as they come

I will refresh screen alot some threads get replies Fast

I know some folks dont relize this trick they sit and wonder if anyone going to post to there thread when folks have already replied Hit refresh or whatever and the posts will show up

Your VGT will change even at idel the PCM moves the veins every so often to avoid getting stuck

Once you tuch the throttle they will go out of that auto move mode

You can check VGT% that corralates to position of veins BUT since there is NO Position sensor in the VGT Who knows what position there in really

Your Numbers are very close Im thinking the EBP sensor is OK its only of 2 psi at KOEO Id say its Good

Im thinking clean the turbo and thats going to be just the ticket

 

5/7 Update:

I ended up taking the truck to my mechanic for diags, and he said the turbo needs to be replaced. I asked him if he thought a cleaning would help and he said no. He said it would be a little under 2k for the repair. So i've decided to do this myself, save money on the turbo (1179 powermax vs 1475 for stock ford turbo) and will save 350 in labor by doing it myself.

Heres what I've done so far. Found a couple of tutorials/guides on turbo replacment thanks to the forum! Second, i ordered a Powermax Turbo from Riff Raff. I was going to order from another site because i thought i found the best price, and then after searhing this forum some more, someone had said Riff Raff had the best price and they sure did! So I also ordered the VGT connector pigtail because the snaps are broken off mine, the blue spring upgrade and a set of fuel filters because i'm at 11k and should have changed them at 10k miles. Last but no least, I took another recommendation, and called up Gearhead Automotive to get the sct and tunes for the new powermax.

Within a years time frame, I've had the standpipes, egr and oil coolers, hpop, icp, ipr, alternator and batteries replaced and tires, and now the turbo. I sure hope my ficm or injectors or any other know issues happen to me in the near future. This is way expensive.

Thanks for the help to everyone on this forum!

 

Hey Benny here's a cut and past I saved form a post about the turbo relearn. The poster said he got it from Bismic.


KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT (Turbo) learn procedure

1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal
operating temperature. (The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil
and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)
2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or
module)
3. Turn on the headlights
4. Disconnect both batteries
5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both
batteries are disconnected before doing this).
6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes
7. Turn off the headlights.
8. Re-connect batteries
9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position
each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and
pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM
has "gone to sleep".
10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal
operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed
position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several
times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for
accurate VGT control.
11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle: 15 miles of mixed driving
(*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn" its
adaptive strategy. Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM
will throw the P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed. As for
the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission must re-learn your driving style and
loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was re-flashed.
Quote

 

There is no way in H E double hockey sticks I would have bought a new turbo without killing the old one trying to fix it. Unless there was some other issue, like missing blades on the impeller, or the bearings siezed or something. From your story, it just sounds so much like like a dirty vane ring. Hope it works, and of course new stuff is always good, just being new!

Brian

 

The mechanic did the vgt relearn. He aslo stated that the vgt was showing it would move, but that the turbo was not adjusting internally. I asked him if it could be cleaned and he said he didnt think it would work in this case. In either case the turbo and tuner have been ordered. And today a new check engine light came.

 

Well if you are not giving up your old turbo up as a core you can always mess with it to see if you can clean it.
You'll have a back up or you can sell it as used.

 

I recently purchased a 2006 ford f250 with 142500 miles. I've only had the truck 2 weeks, and had to send the truck to the shop yesterday. The turbo would only boost to about 10 psi and would sputter and spit out black smoke, then kind of a grayish color, followed by white smoke finally. I was wondering if anyone has had this happen, and what the culprit might be, I'm hoping this is not an expensive fix, I was just wondering what y'all think.

 

Welcome to the forum!

Not trying to shoot you down but it is helpful if you keep each thread to one problem. Starting a new thread with your own title is the best way to avoid confusion.

When you are back on the main page for 6.0 PowerStroke Diesel there is a link at the top of the page that opens the Tech Folder. There is so much information in there that you may not surface for a while!

Here is a direct link:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html Most people here suggest that you start in the Tech Folder to reduce the duplication of answers. I know that you will get lots of help here.