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runs rough after HPOP change

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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 04:53 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by cjgray1974
Think I'm gonna opt for the new sensor.
If this was for Stinky, I would... but I'm **** about Servicing Stinky (big A.S.S. on my shirt). Now I'm wondering what prompted an HPOP replacement. Don't get me wrong... my T500 really helped at 250K with the tunes on stock sticks, and it does an amazing job with the Stage IIs. I'm just curious about how this all came about... what with a bad ICP and all.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 05:30 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by cjgray1974
idling with icp unpluged

Idle with icp unplugged - YouTube
Awwwwww.......much better.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 05:53 PM
  #33  
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Dont think the icp was bad till after I did the hpop. Did some data logging a few months ago. Think I emailed you the files. But on 80e WOT icp was only getting to 2100 or so and iprdc was 100%. Then on stoxk was about 2800 and 65%. Had several people recommend a new hpop. Had a little $ saved up so I got one. Then when I tore into it realized my ebpv was leaking along with my up pipes. So I fixed it all.

Think my icp went bad when one of the hpop lines popped off and sprayed oil everywhere
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:05 PM
  #34  
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Also my pw was 5.5 - 6 ms at wot. Everyone said my egt's would be high so got the egt probe for my infinity and on 60e wot at about 75mph got to 1200 cruising at 55 was 750.

We will be using the truck hauling horses to trail rides and my daughters rodeos and 4H. So I want it in top shape, especially when I cant go and my wife and daughter are on their own
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:11 PM
  #35  
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Just read on o'rings website that if you notice oil on the plug / terminals you need to replace it. Do they push oil up through them when they go bad?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:53 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by cjgray1974
Just read on o'rings website that if you notice oil on the plug / terminals you need to replace it. Do they push oil up through them when they go bad?
Correct, If you see oil on the plug it is time to replace it. Oil will start to seep throught the sensor when it is starting to fail.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 07:29 AM
  #37  
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Were is the ICP, guess I should look at mine?

Edit: And the IPR solenoid?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 08:20 AM
  #38  
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ICP is (looking at the top of the engine) on the front drivers side oil rail. Right next to the engine hoisting eye. The IPR is in back side (valley of engine block) of your HPOP.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 08:32 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by cjgray1974
Also my pw was 5.5 - 6 ms at wot. Everyone said my egt's would be high so got the egt probe for my infinity and on 60e wot at about 75mph got to 1200 cruising at 55 was 750.

We will be using the truck hauling horses to trail rides and my daughters rodeos and 4H. So I want it in top shape, especially when I cant go and my wife and daughter are on their own
It's all coming back to me now. Yes... bad HPOP, but the ICP is now suspect and I'd look into your fuel pressure if you haven't done the Hutch mod yet.

Originally Posted by Atc210
Were is the ICP, guess I should look at mine?

Edit: And the IPR solenoid?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 10:16 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
It's all coming back to me now. Yes... bad HPOP, but the ICP is now suspect and I'd look into your fuel pressure if you haven't done the Hutch mod yet.
Yeah been waiting on DP to get that Cie hub released and i'm gonna add the fuel pressure guage among others. Is there any way to tell if the hutch mod has been done by PO? i think the harpoon mod may have been done because when I fill up there is no toping it off, diesel is right up to the top of the neck.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 10:23 AM
  #41  
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I wonder if my ICP was going and the new HPOP finished taking it out? when I first started the truck it ran good, let it idle for about 10 min then went for a drive, about a mile from the house it died. Took about 15 min to get started then ran really rough till I unpluged the ICP the next day.

Thanks Rich for reminding me to unplug it to see what it would do, or I might still be out there cussing it.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 11:39 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by cjgray1974
Is there any way to tell if the hutch mod has been done by PO? i think the harpoon mod may have been done because when I fill up there is no toping it off, diesel is right up to the top of the neck.
Look at your fuel line. If it has clamps, that's a full Hutch mod. If you have the factory quick-disconnects, those buggers introduce air into the system and can reduce your ICP (as well as a host of other unpleasant symptoms).

Originally Posted by cjgray1974
I wonder if my ICP was going and the new HPOP finished taking it out?
That's similar to what happened to my IPR.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 07:57 PM
  #43  
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Ok, got my ICP sensor in, pretty sure that was the problem. Running great now.

Can't tell how much the HPX and FRX helped because I installed a T500 at the same time, but WOW there is a differance. Think it's a little quiter but I only got about 25 - 30 miles on since I got it back together Much better throtle response, even at WOT in 80e my PW toped out at just a hair over 5ms. My EGT about 1150, and IPRDC about 75%. Much better than it was. Also crusing at 60 my EGT runs about 500, it was at 750.

My SES light went out when I put the new ICP on but under heavy throtle it comes on for a few min, but I think that is the overboost thing, but it didn't do that before. Pulled my codes and had 6 different ones but I didn't clear them before I went for a drive, so I cleared them and we'll see next time I go for a drive. Overall I'm very happy
 
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 01:26 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
Look at your fuel line. If it has clamps, that's a full Hutch mod. If you have the factory quick-disconnects, those buggers introduce air into the system and can reduce your ICP (as well as a host of other unpleasant symptoms).
So I looked today and there is a steel line coming from behind the tank in the frame rail then goes to rubber line then a quick disconnect where the rubber line attaches to the pump. So it has not been done, correct?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 02:39 PM
  #45  
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I don't know if the in-tank mods were done, but it's not a full Hutch mod.
  1. If you have 60e, experiment with that and 80E while recording data.
  2. Replacing the QDs with diesel injector hose (not cheap) injectore hose clamps (different design than what you're used to), and an inline diesel screen-type filter... PLUS doing the in-tank mods will finish off the air-in-fuel issues. Your engine will run a little quieter and it will likely help the whole ICP/IPR/FIPW thing.
  3. Repeat step 1.
That's what I did, and eyebrow raising was involved.
 
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