Hey guys this might get a little long but i appreciate any help you might have......

So i was going down the road and my truck started to run a little funny almost like it was running out of gas..... So i checked my oil because it has done the same thing when my oil got low once.. It was about 3 quarts low so i filled it up but it still ran crappy. Then i pulled off the little filter i have in between the tank and the pump from when i did the hutch and harpoon. It was pretty dirty so i cleaned the screen, but it still ran bad.... I got about 2 miles down the road and it started to run really bad then quit on me.... it had no power for about 30 seconds before it went.... let it sit for about 15 minutes and started it and it romped really bad sounded like it was miss firing alot.... so i let it rest for about an hour while my buddy came to tow me.....

When he got there i started it for him and it romped the same it did for me but then it smoothed out a little bit so i opted to leave it idling while he towed me home so i had brakes and steering... It ended up dieing about half way home and it wouldn't start at all, wouldn't even try. The weird thing is i had NO EGT's while it was idling..... My EGT sensor is in the drivers side up pipe right after the exhaust manifold.... even on the coldest mornings here in utah right when i start my truck the EGT's usually jump up to about 100-200 degrees while its idling when its cold. So i found that to be really weird it's like the whole drivers side bank wasn't firing....

Here are the codes I got off of it today with a craftsman scan tool i have.

These codes where in a section called - Continuous Memory Test

P0562 - System Voltage Low
P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
P1212 - Injector Control Pressure Not At Expected Level
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Error (bank1/1 Sensor)
P1211 - Injector Control Pressure Above/Below Desired

And these codes where in an area called KOEO

P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
P0605 - Powertrain Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error

That all happend about a week ago and its sat ever since. When i did these tests today i started the truck and it kind of idled rough for about 1-2 seconds then smoothed out and seemed to run just fine. I couldn't drive it because it was blocked in at the moment. But i revved it up and power braked it a little bit and as near as i could tell from not driving it all was fine.....

I'm just a little confused and i don't really trust it at this point so any help would be awesome....

Thanks Jeron

 

Bump

Anyone have any ideas????

 

I don't know if the Craftsman tool can read all the codes on these motors, but since you do have a few relevant codes maybe you can. Tell us which scanner model you have in case it really does work on these motors.

If the driver side bank were not firing, you should have seen a P1316 code. Since we don't see that, I'd start by focusing on the P0340. The 1212 and 1211 might have been set by excessive cranking trying to get it started.

Change your CPS ( Welcome to guzzle's CPS R&R Web Page< ) with a new one from Ford, not from the local parts place.

Then keep in mind that running low on oil might have gotten air in the rails and it might run rough for another 50 miles or so. When was the last time you changed the oil? Remember the fuel injectors fire off of engine oil, so clean oil of the proper rating is vital in keeping your truck running well.

Time to find out where those 3 quarts went.

 

The scanner doesn't completely connect to the truck. It says it can't link up when I try and go in to the KOER section. But I'll get the model number when I get home for you.

Ok I'll change the cps. What one is better the one from ford or the one from international...

It does have an oil leak that is coming off the back of the pan so I think it's a rear main because I can't see anything coming down around the trans from the turbo.. It did get low alot faster than I remember it going in the past though

 

IH ones are great (cps). From what i've read, the rear main seal, rarely goes bad, so i'd fish around some more for the leak.

Theres a volt test you can do at the drivers/pass side valve covers for bad injectors/g..p.'s. Find the threads about the 50 cent mod too.

 

Ya I've already replaced the valve cover gasket with ones from international. The new ones had little clips built in so it shouldn't have come undone. Basically does the same thing as the .50 mod.... But I'm about to test it again cause you never know I guess