Step one pull the down pipe its a two piece there is a band clamp on it.

Then from the top feel on the left side of the down pipe elbow, there are two bolts that hold the pipe on they screw into the mount.

Then pull the up pipes. On my pulse system there is a 1/4in bolt on each pipe that goes through a flange in the pipe into the mount.

Finally the mount can be removed, it has 3 3/8ths bolts that hold it to the back of the head and is best gotten from the top. (a 9/16 crows foot will help get the oil line off)

 

Thanks Tom, I didn't see a clamp on the down pipe, but that doesn't mean it's not there. I'll study it closer this afternoon when I get off work.

 

Doggone it, it looks like I have the stupid "pulse" system, not the conventional after all.

First pic is of the 6.9 Truck conventional system. Second is the 'pulse' for a van, couldn't find the component picture for the pulse and truck.

The conventional shows the clamp at the end of the down-pipe and a bolt on flange on the top end of the up-pipe at the pedestal. Neither of which I have.

The pulse system shows two 'slip on?' connections at the pedestal and no clamp on the down-pipe at the turbo, that's how mine is so I guess I'm cursed with the pulse system.

 

Weird, this cheap-o Chinese thermostat broke exactly the same way as the cheap-o that was in my '85:

1986 Cheap-O:



1985 Cheap-O:

 

Ok that picture varies from what it have. How ever if you look at the 2nd picture you see that tab on the downpipe? My tab there has two holes, in those two holes go two bolts that thread into that big cast mount. form the top follow the down pipe with your hand and you should feel that tab and bolts.

Here is a picture showing the back of the turbo mount on the left side showing how the up pipes mount.


Now here is where the down pipe curves down, that tab i speak of should be on the inboard side of the pipe, maybe 2in down from where this picture ends.



Oh and i forgot to ad that the downpipe seals into the turbo with something akin to a piston ring, coat it with anti sieze when you put it back on.

 

Okay, I see what you're saying, I have to unbolt that tab and pull the down-pipe out of the turbo so I can get access to the bolts that hold the pedestal to the head. Sense this version has that ring and not a clamp at the turbo the down-pipe is just pressure fitted into the turbo?

Those are good pics there, I tried to get one similar to your first one, but my camera cannot take good low light pictures. On your first pic there you see that bolt that holds the up-pipe tab to the turbo, that's the bolt I removed (broke) and the up pipe still won't come out. It moves quite a bit, but when it comes to the end of the recess in the turbo it stops. Is there something other than that tab that holds it up? Or am I just fighting carbon and rust at this point? Wanted to make sure of that before I brake anything.

 

The down pipe will just have a piston ring in a groove, the two-bolt tab on it that mounts the down pipe from rotating out of the turbo so yes its just a pressed fit.

The up pipe maybe hanging up on carbon that leaked by. I dont recall the hole for the small bolt going all the way through the mount to where the end of the bolt would prevent the pipe from coming out. When I had to pull mine to do head gaskets I remember them taking alot of wiggling to get them loose.

 

Turns out that's exactly what happened. After twisting, pulling, prying, over and over and over again I decided to pull the LS up-pipe to see if I'd have better luck, it came right off. When I saw how it was constructed, I could see the problem. They didn't rely on just the tab to keep the pipe in place, they used the end of the bolt as a secondary. And since I broke the bolt off in the mount the secondary is still doing its job.

I was able to pull the bolts out of the down-pipe tab, (mine had two also), and pulled the pipe out of the turbo like you said. That gave me the room I needed to get the pedistal unbolted from the back of the head. So the turbo and pipes are still in the truck, but out of the way for the time being for the head removal.

Here's my highly scientifical schematic on how the up pipes lock in:

 

I spent over four hours yesterday fighting this thing. With the turbo issue temporarily dealt with it was back to the head. I cut off the top of that rounded bolt and tried to get the head up off of it. (IDI heads are heavy BTW)
The head would only go so far and stop. I ended up bolting the head back down so I could grind that bolt down to the level of the head hoping to remove whatever was left of the shoulder. Head would go up farther, but still stopped. Removed 1/2 of the a/c box for better clearance, but it didn't help much. (You guys that run studs are sadists. )

I had quite a bit of room between the head and the block, started to push the head to the side to see if it was possible to brake the bolt, but I saw how close the bolt was to the edge of the block and figured the block would probably break first so nix that idea.

Out comes the Oxy-acetylene, haven't used it in a year or two so it's buried in the garage. After moving large heavy things to dig it out and drag it to the truck and set it up I'm ready to cut the bolt off. Only my torch is all messed up and you can't set it right. So I basically melt the bolt in two.

Finally! The head is off! I was so beat after all this it was all I could do to put the tools away. Had to work today too, so up I got this AM all stiff and sore from this. This stuff was easier 20 years ago.

Here is the result:

 

Highly scientific indeed. Seems like everytime i have high expectations for a project it goes like youre saying. Some progress in the end at least.

 

I know, isn't that the luck? This much time just to pull a head! But, yep, at least there is progress now.

 

I just wanted to say this..... That trucks style brings back memories.... I'm gonna dig up some pictures.... That truck was just like my dad's that I grew up riding in

 

Some more progress.

With the down pipe not coming off and the r/s up pipe stuck in place the two pipes basically intertwine making removal impossible. I was able to work the up pipe and pedestal up though, enough to bring the turbo into the engine bay so I could drill out the broken bolt thereby freeing up the up pipe and allowing for the removal of both pipe and pedestal.





Red circle shows the broken bolt I had to drill out.
Yellow circle, well, my pedestal studs and nuts have become one:

 

Holy moly... where are you at? I thought my 088 was kinda rough...

 

It's a inland California truck. It's kind of odd, there's no rust anywhere else on the truck. Even the exhaust looks good. In fact it looks fresh, although it's probably a safe bet it was put on the truck the same time as the turbo as it's Hypermax also.
All the rust is specifically at the pedestal area, so I'm going to assume that the rear seal on the hood leaks.