Leveling 2WD F250
I am pretty happy with they way the Ole girl looks

I did replace the OEM headlights because they looked like Crap!

As far as raising the front end with springs, has anyone looked into the newer 4x4 super duty trucks with coil springs? I assume they are way to tall but can be cut down to personal preference.
That is if they are the same diameter and will fit right.
Now I myself plan on someday bringing the back end of my truck down 2 inches and adding air bags. Using spring shackles. http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-FORD-F250-F350-SUPER-DUTY-2-or-1-Rear-DROP-Lowering-Shackles-SHACKLE-2WD-4X2-/251245054424?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a7f5f49d8#ht_2246wt_986Since lowering the rear 1.5 or 2 inches should lower the truck bed over the tires and help fill the wheelwells and hopefully still keep it off the helper spring. And by adding air bags I can keep the truck level even when pulling heavy loads. But in my case I am usually only towing my boat /8500lbs and it doesn't even move the rear bumper but a 1/2 to 1 inch at best. So I should be able to maintain a level ride with or without a load.
Here is the problem with setting your truck up level with NO load when you haul heavy the back end drops and now the front end is light. When that happens you go from having a negative camber to having NO camber when the front end is higher than the rear. Also when raising the front end or lowering the rear end you are changing the pinion / driveshaft angle which in theory can cause u joints and carrier bearings to wear out quicker. So if you go up with the front end you could fix that with a couple of shims above the carrier bearing. But honestly with only 2 inches of up or down I don't think pinion / driveshaft angle is not a real issue but it can play a factor in parts wearing out quicker.

Lowering or raising the rear would, but when you raise the front suspension the engine, transmission, drive shafts, carrier bearing, and rear axle never move from the original configuration/ angle.
School me...
Thanks for the insight.


I owned a 4x4 for 10 years and never ever once had the need to use the 4wd. The only time I locked in the hubs is when I needed to lube the front end.
I just use common sense when driving a 2wd. Like the erectile disfunction commercial whith the guy and his horses that get stuck in the mud hole. The guy was in the middle of a field, not a tree or ditch miles around, drive AROUND the mud hole! lol
But I do also understand the need for 4wd at the same time. Just saying many people don't need 4wd but it is just pounded into their brain that there is no other way.
The main reasons I got a 2wd is because I was going for fuel mileage. But I am also happy with no 4x4 maintenance, lower to the ground (easy to get in and out), nicer ride, and no stupid sealed unit bearings! haha.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Lowering or raising the rear would, but when you raise the front suspension the engine, transmission, drive shafts, carrier bearing, and rear axle never move from the original configuration/ angle.
School me...
Now as far schooling I might not be the best at explaining this. Since I am sure I have forgotten more than I know. I say that since back in the late80's and early 90's I worked on many different projects from tubing, narrowed diff & 4 link set up's on drag cars and lift kits on 4x4's for living. But that was a long time ago.
Now just to be clear you have 2 different angles to keep in mind 1 pinion angle / diff pinion angle and 2:drive shaft angle / angle of drive shaft from trans to carrier bearing and drive shaft angle from carrier bearing to diff.
Let's start with some base #'s that I have from my stock F350 drw 2wd.
tire size 235/85/16 roughly a 30 1/2" tall tire so the center line of the axle is 15.25" from ground
The bottom of front frames rails are 20" to the ground and at the back of the truck the frame rails are 24" inches to the ground. So that means I have a 4" differences from front to back over 21 feet. No big deal since the truck is so long if going up or down only 2 inches. Since the carrier bearing would only move about an 1/2" to 1" inch up or down from the ground. So what I am trying to say is anytime you start changing the distance of the center line of axle/ spindles and frame by raising the suspension you could end up causing driveline issues. But if you are raising the suspension and putting taller tires on the truck you are moving center line of axle/ spindles up too. Keeping it closer to factory distances between the axle center line & frame ride height. It really does make a difference in the in the angle of the pinion angle and the driveshaft angle. And if I recall I think it should be in the area of no more than a 4* degree differences. So I hopes this helps explain the point I was trying to make. And this will help explain the problems you can run into Drive Shaft Harmonics
I just use common sense when driving a 2wd. Like the erectile disfunction commercial whith the guy and his horses that get stuck in the mud hole. The guy was in the middle of a field, not a tree or ditch miles around, drive AROUND the mud hole! lol
But I do also understand the need for 4wd at the same time. Just saying many people don't need 4wd but it is just pounded into their brain that there is no other way.
The main reasons I got a 2wd is because I was going for fuel mileage. But I am also happy with no 4x4 maintenance, lower to the ground (easy to get in and out), nicer ride, and no stupid sealed unit bearings! haha.
Also I agree that people are brain washed that you have to have 4wd. Now I use my truck to pull my boat and live where we do get alot of snow and I don't have any problems with only 2wd. And I love the ride of my 2wd & the mileage I get with it.












