Let me start by saying i do not want to go overboard, this entire project is costing enough already. So here is the back ground. I blew a jw trans. Talked to John an he was very cool. Sending it back for him to work his magic. Since the trans is out, perfect time to replace the rusted oil pan. So now I am committed to pulling the engine. Since the engine is out, replacing the exhaust manifolds and everything else that needs attention. We are going ahead with gp's and now the dilemma... Injectors... Which ones to go with? I was on DP earlier and I am leaning towards stage 2. Any thoughts? I almost forgot, my fuel lines are rough. I am thinking replacing just about all fuel components, but I am completely lost there, the strictly diesel site confused the xxxx out of me.
I wish they would list a diagram of what their stuff replaces or list a complete kit from tank to block and back to tank. Thank you for the help.

 

how bad is your fever?? what turbo are you planning?? I am running SD'd RR and it is nice, replaces everything from the fuel pump to the return line.I would go ahead and do the fuel filter delete kit from the as well.. As far as injectors, go larger than you want (you will want more later) and de-tune..

 

Keeping the stock turbo for a while. It has a wicked wheel and banks ported shroud

 

I am looking for injectors, fuel system, exhaust manifolds and any other suggestions since the engine will be out on Monday.

 

Look at that post 500

 

I'd prep that oil pan to last with POR15 or similar, and get ceramic coating on both the exhaust manifolds and bellowed uppies. Then you'll never have to mess with it again for the rest of your life.

 

I'd atleast go to the gen2 ww for that turbo if your going bigger sticks. More air will really help and not much money invested.

 

3 coats of por 15 plus i used their rubberized undercoating.

I already have the bellowed up, i will look into ceramic manifolds.

Is there that much of a difference with a gen 2 wicked wheel?

 

Saving money:

The stage IIs hit the sweet spot. This is as big as you go without modifyning the fuel delivery system, other than a plain ol' Hutch mod. They are a common upgrade and many a tuner are familiar with how to tune for them. They don't alter the reliability of the whole 7.3L system, other than they help to keep the EGTs down because of their differences from the split-shots. They add a ton of power (I'm pushing 375-400 HP) when you're in it, and they behave nicely at idle (if flow-balanced to idle pressure and timing). I had rotten luck with remans, and I ultimately fired off the kill shot with the Buck$Zooka when I switched to new sticks. I'm not saying that's the only call, I can only convey my personal experience.

You're doing exhaust... this is bellowed ups time, if you don't already have them. I replaced my manifolds, ups, and collector (all at the same time) and didn't do the ceramic thing. My new sticks with my current tuning haven't popped 1200 at WOT yet, so I feel all warm and fuzzy about my choices. I don't know where you are on gauges, but this is the best time to drill and tap a manifold for the EGT sensor.

IF you go with bigger sticks, you will need to detune at first. My boost system completely failed on all levels and I ended up with new clamps, new boots, and billet plenums. Recover from the Buck$Zooka blasts and add boost stuff later before allowing those sticks to stretch their legs.

Get a scan tool if you don't have one... you're gunna need it.

 

After doing some research, I am leaning towards stage 2 through DP, valve springs, gaskets, gp's, ww ver 2 and harness through riffraff and the prepump and fuel bowl delete also through DP. Sound good? Why will i need a scan tool other then to read codes and paremeters? Should i expect to have problems?

 

Codes and sensor readings are good. Are you expecting problems? Your truck is eleven-twelve years old with 1xx,000 miles... the calendar and the odo don't work in reverse.

 

I thought you where referring to calibrating stuff. I was hoping for plug and play, with Jodi's help of course.

 

Sometimes tunes can get a little weird - with anybody. It's helpful to have some sensor data to sort things out. I gave Jody recorded AE data that he asked for and he could see why things were happening. Infinity will take this same procedure about 10 steps forward - faster data sampling and more inside info.

 

Why do you want to replace injectors?
Why do you want to do valve springs?

My opinion, if you have the engine out, get a master o-ring kit and replace every single o-ring. Clean it very well. Throw a t500 on it, a full fuel system with a sump pump, new UVCH's, and inspect every inch of the wiring harness. Replacing the manifolds is good, but only if yours are leaking. You're already doing the oil pan, so while you have the block flipped over put a set of the welded piston cooling jets in. R&R your oil cooler with either a brand new cooler, or completely rebuild and reseal your existing one. Go get yourself some of the nice heat resistant fiber tape and wire loom and retape your wiring harness.

On the fuel system, get a system that replaces all the metal lines on the top of the engine, has a delete block, and runs larger hose from a sump in the tank, to your pre-pump filter, then through dual superduty pumps, and through your post pump, and up to the valley. Then use the stock supply line as your return.

Injectors are easy in the truck. No problem what-so-ever. Turbo, not so much. If you are eventually going to replace the turbo, now is the time. Heck, depending on your goals, I'd just spend the money on a T4 mount and a s366 with the ETT wheel. Gets you your bellowed up-pipes, and swaps to a much more versatile turbo and mount. Much easier to install up-pipes or a t4 mount with the engine out of the truck.

What are your goals with the truck?

 

Why do i want do to injectors? I don't know, i just want them. I think I am confusing my needs and wants.

I thought valve springs wore out over time and it would be logical to tackle them with the engine out.

I am planning an a fuel system, but I can't decide if I want to delete the fuel bowl. Any benefits one way or the other?

I am thinking I would like 375-400 hp when done. Streetable, tow a trailer on occasion and hopefully push some snow again.