Alrighty guys, well the rebuild kit is coming in on monday, had my turbo balanced. I'll be just fine with assembling the cartridge, but what i need help on is the routing of the big pieces, what should be the easy stuff, and i could figure it out once i started putting them on, but i'd rather know before i start.


This first one is where the factory N/A CDR went, it has the bit block off with an oring around it that goes up against the intake mani, and a tube that runs from the grommet in the intake mani up to the oil inlet in the turbo cartridge. but i can't bolt it to the intake manifold where the old CDR was because theres a huge gap as you can see, so what goes there guys? i can't figure this one out. I have every piece that i know of, but there has to be a piece that goes there to fill up that space right?

Second one

This piece confuses me too, the side with the studs looks like it would accept one side of the crossover pipe, but the factory intake manifolds already have the studs on them right? So which side of this piece goes where? i'm almost certain the opening at the top at my thumb goes into the exhaust pipe coming from the turbine side.
Any help is greatly appreciated, like i said rebuild kit is getting here on monday so after a long week of work it will be good to get to work on the ol gal some and get her running with a fresh breath of air through her.
Radiator is comming back frmo cleaning too!

 

Alright fellas, trying to get my filter housing on, and the bolt holes line up, but my injector lines are in the way? i thought this was supposed to bolt right up? what gives

 

on the exhaust pipe you have pictured.....

the end with the studs on it accepts the cross over pipe. The flange with the holes drilled into it goes to the pass side mani. mine uses bolts to hold the collector to the mani, not sure what the factory N/A trucks have on the manis.

 

Yeah i've figured that part out, thanks.

Really need some help on this or someone that has done this on a 6.9l
the 1st and 3rd pic i have no idea about, neither will go, the air filter box needs like 2 in. to bolt on. the injector lines are in the way. you can't bend them that much.
I got no idea guys

 

On the first picture, the where is the huge gap? Do you mean where the bolt attaches it on the right? I'm not certain, but that might be ok like that. The important part is that the plate blocks off the hole in the intake manifold and has a good seal with the o-ring. I want to say a gap there is normal. You also want to make sure the throttle cable is underneath that part (on the left side)

Don't know about the factory turbos, but the aftermarket kit tells you to remove the studs from the exhaust manifold and put them into the y-pipe piece. Then that piece bolts onto the manifold. I'm not sure if it will fit with the studs in the manifold, or if you'll have to pull the studs and use bolts.

For the filter box, which injector line is hitting? I'll admit to not knowing which cylinder is which (and too lazy to search for it right now). The aftermarket kit comes with a new injector line for #2 for use on the 6.9L engines only. I guess they changed the lines slightly for 7.3L trucks so its not an issue on them.

Also, on the first picture, you'll have to remove that lifting bracket on the rear passenger side of the engine. There is a metal heatshield that gets bolted there instead to protect that rear injector/line.

I have a pdf of the install instructions for the aftermarket kit and the parts list. Someone must have posted it here at one point, if you can't find it, PM me your email and I'll send it to you.

 

The turbo pedastal should be touching the intake mani where you have that gap. i don't know why it is so far away though.

 

Just remembered, I may have had that same problem. Is there a rubber grommet on the intake that the CDR goes into? If there is, it needs to be removed.

 

There is a rubber grommet on the bottom that goes into the valley pan i guess is what it's called, may be one going into the intake as well? i'll have to check to make sure..
Edit: Also tecgod the injector line it hits is the front most one on the drivers side.
it sticks way up in the air.

 

Greeaaaaaat. tecgod you were right, there was a grommet type thing where the cdr went in to thei ntake, took it off and it fits flush, problem is i forgot to get the grommet from the 7.3 that goes into the valley pan for the turbo application... does anyone sell those? would ford sell them?

 

The only way to get that grommet is the rubber parts kit I have, ford quit that grommet 5 years ago.
And the studs come out of the manifold, the Y hits the hex portion on some if left in.
You can ,sometimes rebend that inj line around the other one to fit, not always though. A 7.3 one is the way to go.

 

Glad I could help!
And yes, after reading the install manual I have, #2 is the driver side front. Looks like you need to get a 7.3L line for that one, or the special 6.9L line that ATS had (I don't know if it was just a 7.3L line or if there is some other difference between the lines on the two engines).

 

Hey russ what do you mean but the studs come out? the way i have it layed out in my head it woulda all fit now that i have figured out where everything goes? Also email sent.

Thanks again tecgod.
Guess i'm heading to the JY tomorrow for an injector line and maybe a grommet for this bad boy, the trucks there never have turbos on them but you never know if they've just been pulled already or what, i can go check to see if the grommet is right on any of them

 

For the true grommet Russ is the guy to get it from for the reason he listed, but you can get a substitute Dorman part 42344This is what i used when i recently did my head gaskets and it has been working great. it is a bit shorter than the "correct" grommet but does it's job as it should.

 

My grommet was hard as a rock. Couldn't save it. The reseal kit that Russ sells has all the rubber grommets and olives you need to seal the valley pan, oil line on the turbo, cdr on the valve cover, pedestal and even the wastegate tube olives.
A whole lot easier to get the kit than trying to get the right fit in my opinion.

 

If russ can hook me up for a good price i'll go ahead and get that. if not where do i get that dorman part?