Sputtering and no power?!
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New User
Joined: Apr 2013
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Sputtering and no power?!
Yesterday I started the truck up and drove it about a mile then the Service Engine Soon light popped on and the truck began to shake. In idle it seems to make a shake or sputter. When i try to accelerate, there is no power to get it going unless I put the pedal to the floor. I replaced my cps today and the problem is still there. Sometimes the light will shut off for 5-10 mins and it'll drive normal. I took it to 3 shops and no codes were showing. Someone please help me with any ideas on what it could be.
1999 f250 7.3
1999 f250 7.3
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,802
Likes: 1,333
From: Elk Grove, CA
Welcome to FTE!
Did you notice any smoke? What color?
Since these trucks are not really OBDII compliant many normal code scanners will not find the codes you need. You'll need a fancy schmancy Snap On, or the fave here Auto Enginuity, or an android phone with Torque app and a bluetooth ELM adapter. Post up you location maybe someone local can help with a scan.
Off the top of my head I'd say it is an intermittant electrical issue. Could be the harness on the driver side going to the 42 pin connector has chafed on the valve cover, so you'll get a wire shorting randomly. Take a peek at those wires. Or the connectors thru the valve cover is loose inside, needing the 50 cent mod. Search on that and test the contacts with your multimeter, the results can tell a story.
And just to cover the basics, how is the oil level and how many miles on the truck?
Lots of experienced and helpful people here, keep up the conversation and we'll help ya fix it for a lot less than the stealership.
Did you notice any smoke? What color?
Since these trucks are not really OBDII compliant many normal code scanners will not find the codes you need. You'll need a fancy schmancy Snap On, or the fave here Auto Enginuity, or an android phone with Torque app and a bluetooth ELM adapter. Post up you location maybe someone local can help with a scan.
Off the top of my head I'd say it is an intermittant electrical issue. Could be the harness on the driver side going to the 42 pin connector has chafed on the valve cover, so you'll get a wire shorting randomly. Take a peek at those wires. Or the connectors thru the valve cover is loose inside, needing the 50 cent mod. Search on that and test the contacts with your multimeter, the results can tell a story.
And just to cover the basics, how is the oil level and how many miles on the truck?
Lots of experienced and helpful people here, keep up the conversation and we'll help ya fix it for a lot less than the stealership.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 836
Likes: 7
Really sounds like the UVCH.....You will have to pull the valve covers and do the 50 cent mod, or wedges from Ford, or replace the valve cover gasket and harness altogether. I did the wedges sputtering came back after about a year and then I replaced gasket and harness. There is a test you can do to determine which side you will have to do dome searching.
This will give you some idea..
This will give you some idea..
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
That describes what happened to rcboats1. For him it was the UVCH and the valve covor gasket. Here's how it played out: [LINK]
To confirm if it really is the UVCH, remove the 42-pin connector over the driver-sider valve cover (with a 10mm socket) and you will see the item in the image below. "P+" is for Passenger-side common for the injectors on that side of the engine. The passenger side is all odd-numbered. Each injector needs to be tested for continuity. I think they will be about 4 ohms or so... but they all have to be the same.
To confirm if it really is the UVCH, remove the 42-pin connector over the driver-sider valve cover (with a 10mm socket) and you will see the item in the image below. "P+" is for Passenger-side common for the injectors on that side of the engine. The passenger side is all odd-numbered. Each injector needs to be tested for continuity. I think they will be about 4 ohms or so... but they all have to be the same.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,712
Likes: 107
From: BoCoMo
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...f-its-not.html
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
What they said^^^ I replaced my UVCH harnesses about 3 yrs ago. Mine was doing the same thing .
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
From: Quaker Hill
I had something similar right after I bought my flatbed. It would start up and run fine, for random amounts of time. Then all of a sudden something would happen and shut down my whole drivers side of engine. I tried EVERYTHING, and finally found I had a chafed wire in my wiring harness, not right. On top of the valve cover, but halfway down. One wire had chafed on the inside of the corrugated tubing and would randomly short out on the bare ground wire. I never threw a code either, making it even more frustrating. I worked on that thing for 10 days, and even swapped out an IDM. Ended being a 30 second/.05 cent fix once it was found. I'd start there. Peel that tubing back and inspect those wires real careful. 10 minute job, and cheap. Good luck!
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9 ECHO 1
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12,467
Likes: 58
From: Missouri
This just happened to me the other day. I second everyone above, its an electrical problem going to the valve covers. Either the 42-pin, the external connector, or more likely the UVCH.
For me it was the external connector on my passenger side.
For me it was the external connector on my passenger side.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,802
Likes: 1,333
From: Elk Grove, CA
That describes what happened to rcboats1. For him it was the UVCH and the valve covor gasket. Here's how it played out: [LINK]
To confirm if it really is the UVCH, remove the 42-pin connector over the driver-sider valve cover (with a 10mm socket) and you will see the item in the image below. "P+" is for Passenger-side common for the injectors on that side of the engine. The passenger side is all odd-numbered. Each injector needs to be tested for continuity. I think they will be about 4 ohms or so... but they all have to be the same.
To confirm if it really is the UVCH, remove the 42-pin connector over the driver-sider valve cover (with a 10mm socket) and you will see the item in the image below. "P+" is for Passenger-side common for the injectors on that side of the engine. The passenger side is all odd-numbered. Each injector needs to be tested for continuity. I think they will be about 4 ohms or so... but they all have to be the same.
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