Replacing rear hub issue
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Chi-Town
Replacing rear hub issue
2002 Mercury Mountaineer.
I had a hard time getting the ball joints out of the knuckle in order to remove it to have the hub pressed in / out. I can't tell if me hitting the knuckle bent it (it's cast iron - so I'm guessing not) or if the guy that pressed the hub bent it.
Any suggestions? Think I would be able to heat it up and bend it back or am I SOL and have to buy a new knuckle?
Don't have a picture right now but it is pretty tweaked. Couldn't slide the brake caliper assembly back in as it didn't line up anymore.
I had a hard time getting the ball joints out of the knuckle in order to remove it to have the hub pressed in / out. I can't tell if me hitting the knuckle bent it (it's cast iron - so I'm guessing not) or if the guy that pressed the hub bent it.
Any suggestions? Think I would be able to heat it up and bend it back or am I SOL and have to buy a new knuckle?
Don't have a picture right now but it is pretty tweaked. Couldn't slide the brake caliper assembly back in as it didn't line up anymore.
New User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I have a 2005 Explorer I'm trying to replace the rear hub bearings also, my first thought would be that the guy that pressed out the hub should replace the knuckle, I do not think it safe to bend and then bend back, a cast steel suspension part.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
THe knuckle is odd shaped and not easily leveled in a press. You have to use a few blocks and set it just right. Normally takes 12 tons MINIMUM to press the bearing off. Not sure how you would bend it, but surely not with a hammer.
New User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I looked a little closer at the bearing and it will only press out one way,the direction of the snap ring.
At about 75,000 miles this bearing went out the first time, it was under warranty now with 95k it's out again.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
You have to press the bearing into the housing and onto the shaft in the correct order. Pressing on the OD of the bearing to get the ID over the shaft will put excess stress on teh bearing. Press on the inner race to install on the shaft, and press on the OD race to install into the housing.
Trending Topics
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
Jack up truck and take off wheel and brake assembly. Rotate the axle by hand and noted “noise”. Do the following steps--- I took the CV joint boot<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
Hose clamp loose, this is not necessary as it seals to the CV joint case, not<o></o>
The knuckle. <o></o>
<o></o>
· Disconnect the brake cable from knuckle<o></o>
· Pull tie rod bolt out of hub holder and remove tie rod stud<o></o>
· Remove the 32 MM nut holding axle shaft in hub<o></o>
· Pull top A- frame bolt out of knuckle and remove A-frame ball socket stud. (you pound wedges in groove to remove stud).<o></o>
· Remove knuckle bolt to lower A-frame<o></o>
· The knuckle is now free, but splined to the alxe shaft<o></o>
· Set knuckle on 2 x 4 on lower A-frame to support it up.<o></o>
· Use 3 point hub puller, mount to hub studs, and push axle shaft out<o></o>
· Take knuckle and hub to bench.<o></o>
<o></o>
The bearings is a two piece tapered roller bearing mounted into a<o></o>
One piece outer race. The 32 mm nut holds the two inner races together on<o></o>
The axle. The nut should not be loosened when tire setting on the driveway.<o></o>
<o></o>
· Set two 2 x 6 one edge on the hydraulic press<o></o>
· Set the knuckle, studs down on the 2 x 6.<o></o>
· Shim level as needed, put 3/8 plate under the sheetmetal ring<o></o>
· Press the hub out of the knuckle.<o></o>
· I pressed to extremely tight, then smacked the hub on top to move 1/16”<o></o>
· After the hub is out, remove the snap ring inside the knuckle<o></o>
· Clean the knuckle outside the snap ring area<o></o>
· Pound out one of the inner bearing races.<o></o>
· Pound out the second of the inner bearing races.<o></o>
· Weld 4 stringer beads on the outer race<o></o>
· Pound out the outer race toward the snap ring groove<o></o>
· Wire brush inside the knuckle where the bearing sets.<o></o>
<o></o>
The bearing must be install into the hub holder first, use the old outer<o></o>
Race to press aginst the new race. (push on the outer race only)<o></o>
<o></o>
<o></o>
· Press the new bearing into the knuckle with outer race.<o></o>
· Install the snap ring ontop of the new bearing<o></o>
· Find a pipe that will side over the new hub shaft<o></o>
· Support the knuckle in the hydraulic press with the<o></o>
Pipe above resting on the bearing inner race.<o></o>
· Set the hub ontop of the bearing and press the hub into the inner races<o></o>
By supporting the bottom of the inner race. This puts no load on the outer race.<o></o>
· The hub will bottom out on the bearing shoulder.<o></o>
· Clean the socket holes where the tie rod and A-frame studs set<o></o>
· Reinstall knuckle unit on the truck<o></o>
Tighten the 32 mm nut prior to putting load on the bearing
fficeffice" /><o></o>Hose clamp loose, this is not necessary as it seals to the CV joint case, not<o
></o>The knuckle. <o
></o><o
></o>· Disconnect the brake cable from knuckle<o
></o>· Pull tie rod bolt out of hub holder and remove tie rod stud<o
></o>· Remove the 32 MM nut holding axle shaft in hub<o
></o>· Pull top A- frame bolt out of knuckle and remove A-frame ball socket stud. (you pound wedges in groove to remove stud).<o
></o>· Remove knuckle bolt to lower A-frame<o
></o>· The knuckle is now free, but splined to the alxe shaft<o
></o>· Set knuckle on 2 x 4 on lower A-frame to support it up.<o
></o>· Use 3 point hub puller, mount to hub studs, and push axle shaft out<o
></o>· Take knuckle and hub to bench.<o
></o><o
></o>The bearings is a two piece tapered roller bearing mounted into a<o
></o>One piece outer race. The 32 mm nut holds the two inner races together on<o
></o>The axle. The nut should not be loosened when tire setting on the driveway.<o
></o><o
></o>· Set two 2 x 6 one edge on the hydraulic press<o
></o>· Set the knuckle, studs down on the 2 x 6.<o
></o>· Shim level as needed, put 3/8 plate under the sheetmetal ring<o
></o>· Press the hub out of the knuckle.<o
></o>· I pressed to extremely tight, then smacked the hub on top to move 1/16”<o
></o>· After the hub is out, remove the snap ring inside the knuckle<o
></o>· Clean the knuckle outside the snap ring area<o
></o>· Pound out one of the inner bearing races.<o
></o>· Pound out the second of the inner bearing races.<o
></o>· Weld 4 stringer beads on the outer race<o
></o>· Pound out the outer race toward the snap ring groove<o
></o>· Wire brush inside the knuckle where the bearing sets.<o
></o><o
></o>The bearing must be install into the hub holder first, use the old outer<o
></o>Race to press aginst the new race. (push on the outer race only)<o
></o><o
></o><o
></o>· Press the new bearing into the knuckle with outer race.<o
></o>· Install the snap ring ontop of the new bearing<o
></o>· Find a pipe that will side over the new hub shaft<o
></o>· Support the knuckle in the hydraulic press with the<o
></o>Pipe above resting on the bearing inner race.<o
></o>· Set the hub ontop of the bearing and press the hub into the inner races<o
></o>By supporting the bottom of the inner race. This puts no load on the outer race.<o
></o>· The hub will bottom out on the bearing shoulder.<o
></o>· Clean the socket holes where the tie rod and A-frame studs set<o
></o>· Reinstall knuckle unit on the truck<o
></o>Tighten the 32 mm nut prior to putting load on the bearing
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Traildust
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
5
Apr 18, 2017 10:40 PM
ErrorS
1978 - 1996 Big Bronco
9
Sep 28, 2010 06:39 PM
gilllawn
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
13
Jan 27, 2010 02:08 PM
svooom
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
2
Sep 13, 2006 08:39 AM