Rear Hub Removal Question
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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Rear Hub Removal Question
I have an 86 F350 Dually with the floating rear axle. I want to know two things:
1). Does the hub come off seperate the bearing assembly?
2). where can I find the tool to remove the bearing bolt so I can slide the hub off the spindle. Its drum brakes. The bolt assembly has four square holes on it and I need the hub off in order to repair the bearings and races. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
1). Does the hub come off seperate the bearing assembly?
2). where can I find the tool to remove the bearing bolt so I can slide the hub off the spindle. Its drum brakes. The bolt assembly has four square holes on it and I need the hub off in order to repair the bearings and races. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
There is a socket for removing the nuts, available at most any parts store. The hub and drum can be taken off together. Not sure on the 350 axles, but my 250 will let you take the drum off without taking the hub off.
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I put a torch on both sides of the assembly figuring it was rusted but I have never had to apply that much heat and BFH persuasion before so I figured I better stop and ask. I visited some online parts places to try and get a picture but they only show the hub with the bearing assembly being a separate part.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
The bearings are tapered, and come out of the hub. If you are thinking it is a full assembly like the front wheel drives, they are not. they are a tapered bearing with a race. The nut on the axle tube holds it all together, once you take those nuts out, the front bearing can come out, and then you can move the hub side to side, up and down. If it has gotten welded to the tube, you are in for a big problem, but I have only seen that happen once in 20 years.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
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From: Virginia
F-250HD, F-350
1.
Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2.
Remove the wheel. Loosen the rear brake shoe adjustment.
3.
Remove the rear axle retaining bolts and lockwashers, axle shaft, and gasket.
4.
Remove the wheel bearing locknut, lockwasher, and adjusting nut.
5.
Remove the hub and drum assembly from the axle.
6.
Remove the brake drum-to-hub retaining screws, bolts or bolts and nut. Remove the brake drum from the hub.
If you have the Dana axle(fill plug in the rear cover) you usually have to pull the axle, take the bearings out using a special hub socket, and then pull the whole assembly off the rearend.
1.
Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2.
Remove the wheel. Loosen the rear brake shoe adjustment.
3.
Remove the rear axle retaining bolts and lockwashers, axle shaft, and gasket.
4.
Remove the wheel bearing locknut, lockwasher, and adjusting nut.
5.
Remove the hub and drum assembly from the axle.
6.
Remove the brake drum-to-hub retaining screws, bolts or bolts and nut. Remove the brake drum from the hub.
If you have the Dana axle(fill plug in the rear cover) you usually have to pull the axle, take the bearings out using a special hub socket, and then pull the whole assembly off the rearend.
New User
Joined: Aug 2009
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my 89 F250 dually(class C motor home) is leaking fluid from the gasket where the rear axle assy attaches to the hub. Must be a seal there-since that is where the hub rotates. I have removed the axle and the metal gasket and can see the spline-there is some kind of "snap ring" and I can see at least 2 large brass colored nuts which are threaded on to the hub-inside the hub. What now?? appreciate your help. thanx, RDB
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 102
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From: Bozeman, Montana
there is a big difference between the full floating and semifloating. i assume yours is the full floating sterling 10.25"?
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New User
Joined: Aug 2009
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yes it is the full floating. I guess from the Chilton and other manuals(pix are the same) I need a special socket to rm the nuts and another special to to rm the bearings. thanx
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New User
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The bearings are tapered, and come out of the hub. If you are thinking it is a full assembly like the front wheel drives, they are not. they are a tapered bearing with a race. The nut on the axle tube holds it all together, once you take those nuts out, the front bearing can come out, and then you can move the hub side to side, up and down. If it has gotten welded to the tube, you are in for a big problem, but I have only seen that happen once in 20 years.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
I don't quite follow what you mean- are you having trouble getting the axle out to get to the hub nuts, or is the hub stuck on the tube?The tube is integral to the axle housing, and can not be removed, it plays the part of spindle on the rear axle.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: Cullman, Alabama
If y'all will allow me to piggy-back on this thread with my similar questions;
My 1984 F250LD came with the semi-floating Dana 60, cooked the right side axle bearing and axle, took my measurements to the junkyard and pulled a 1973 (D3TA-ADA 603381-6 3.73) full floating Dana 60 rear axle assembly.
Everything looks like an easy bolt-in.
1. The hub nuts and locks are terribly mangled and chewed up by previous work being done with BFH and a chisel. Where can I buy new locks and nuts? Prefer not to go to the dealership.
2. What is the procedure to tighten the hub nuts?
Thanks!
My 1984 F250LD came with the semi-floating Dana 60, cooked the right side axle bearing and axle, took my measurements to the junkyard and pulled a 1973 (D3TA-ADA 603381-6 3.73) full floating Dana 60 rear axle assembly.
Everything looks like an easy bolt-in.
1. The hub nuts and locks are terribly mangled and chewed up by previous work being done with BFH and a chisel. Where can I buy new locks and nuts? Prefer not to go to the dealership.
2. What is the procedure to tighten the hub nuts?
Thanks!
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
Napa usually has a good stock of Spicer and Dana parts, or can order them.
For the Dana full floating locknut install;
While rotating the hub/drum assembly, tighten the adjusting nut to 120-140ftlb. Then back off the nut to get .001-.010 in end play. This should be 1/8-3/8 of a turn.
For the Dana full floating locknut install;
While rotating the hub/drum assembly, tighten the adjusting nut to 120-140ftlb. Then back off the nut to get .001-.010 in end play. This should be 1/8-3/8 of a turn.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 537
Likes: 0
From: LaGrande,Ore
Rear axle
Nuts and locks should be available at a good parts store (NAPA). Procedure and specs should be in manual (Chilton, Motor's, Haynes,etc.) Strongly suggest you acquire one for your year vehicle. A wealth of info and some specs/ procedures change from fear to year. Too many for this old fart to remember.I work on old things and the old specs did'nt change much. Good luck. OBCB
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: Cullman, Alabama
If y'all will allow me to piggy-back on this thread with my similar questions;
My 1984 F250LD came with the semi-floating Dana 60, cooked the right side axle bearing and axle, took my measurements to the junkyard and pulled a 1973 (D3TA-ADA 603381-6 3.73) full floating Dana 60 rear axle assembly.
Everything looks like an easy bolt-in.
1. The hub nuts and locks are terribly mangled and chewed up by previous work being done with BFH and a chisel. Where can I buy new locks and nuts? Prefer not to go to the dealership.
2. What is the procedure to tighten the hub nuts?
Thanks!
My 1984 F250LD came with the semi-floating Dana 60, cooked the right side axle bearing and axle, took my measurements to the junkyard and pulled a 1973 (D3TA-ADA 603381-6 3.73) full floating Dana 60 rear axle assembly.
Everything looks like an easy bolt-in.
1. The hub nuts and locks are terribly mangled and chewed up by previous work being done with BFH and a chisel. Where can I buy new locks and nuts? Prefer not to go to the dealership.
2. What is the procedure to tighten the hub nuts?
Thanks!
Napa usually has a good stock of Spicer and Dana parts, or can order them.
For the Dana full floating locknut install;
While rotating the hub/drum assembly, tighten the adjusting nut to 120-140ftlb. Then back off the nut to get .001-.010 in end play. This should be 1/8-3/8 of a turn.
For the Dana full floating locknut install;
While rotating the hub/drum assembly, tighten the adjusting nut to 120-140ftlb. Then back off the nut to get .001-.010 in end play. This should be 1/8-3/8 of a turn.
Nuts and locks should be available at a good parts store (NAPA). Procedure and specs should be in manual (Chilton, Motor's, Haynes,etc.) Strongly suggest you acquire one for your year vehicle. A wealth of info and some specs/ procedures change from fear to year. Too many for this old fart to remember.I work on old things and the old specs did'nt change much. Good luck. OBCB
Thanks guys, but the Dana I bought was a turd;
1. Drums were (+/-) .200" over the 12.090" maximum diameter
2. Emergency brake/self adjuster hdw. missing
3. Cross shaft had spun/come out previously. Cross shaft, side gears, carrier case FUBAR.
4. Carrier has about 1/8" slop in the housing.
5. R&P worn due to slop in the carrier.
Too bad, was a 3:73 Trac-Lok rear.
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