Just replaced a head due to a crack resulting in diesel in the coolant system. The head is a Ford replacement. I followed all the tips from others in the forum including making sure the harmonic balancer position indicator was at the 6 o'clock position. Didn't help and bent the #5 exhaust. Everything else looks OK after taking it apart. Any ideas on what the cause was?

Also, do I pull the head and have it checked? Get a push rod and replace it and try again after verifying that the position indicator hole is at 6 o'clock? If i don't pull the head do i need a new head gasket? Any help is appreciated for a 6.0 amateur in training. <acronym title="By The Way">BTW</acronym> I am running ARP head studs.

 

I think your right with the 6 oclock thing

BUT Did you also Crank the engine over BY HAND a few times before hitting the Starter

I think they say the Lifter stays Pumped up but IDK really what that means if its like STuck in the up postion or what

 

did you rotate the engine by hand first to make sure there was no binding? or prime the system first? (cranking without power to anything else)

 

lol....beat me to it blade..SMH

 

To tell the truth, no i didnt ( I know now)

 

goes for any engine.... they don't like dry starts. I do to make sure there's no binding anywhere. Hand cranking is the best way, less chance on causing damage if there is something wrong.

 

That said, with everything looking ok can i just replace the push rod and crank it by hand as discussed, or should i remove the head to have that ex valve checked?

 

considering the reason you changed out the head was due to a crack and mixing fuel.... so in essence you shouldn't have damage to anything else that would cause a bent pushrod such as out of round cam lobe, bent push tube, stuck lifter or bent valve. If you have to take it apart anyway, why not reexamine some things.... the other problem could have been that you didn't seat it in the "cups" just right....after installing them give them a jiggle and spin just be sure they are locked in

 

I would say replace the bent pushrod and roll it over by hand a couple of revolutions and call it good.

 

Thanks, I think i most likely didn't get it seated in the cup right ( Now i know that lesson . Ill put a new one in and crank it over by hand a few times around. If all goes well ill fire it up. Thanks for the advise.

 

<hr style="color:#D1D1E1; background-color:#D1D1E1" size="1"> Ok, Threw in a new pushrod and checked it seated. I'm rotating it by hand and get 7/8 around and i hit a resistance and appears something is binding. What is my next step? How do i find out what is stopping the hand rotation? Any troubleshooting help would be great!

 

check to see if the valves move on the cylinder that bent the push rod

is the rocker arm on that one move ok to

hope you can fine it without Pullen the Head if you do pull the head you will need a New HeadGasket

maybe you can pull the same pushrod that bent pull the new one and then rotatate it and see if you can single out the bad one

With me ^^Last part here Its kinda confusing I know what I want just dont know if I said it the best

Im thinking its the cylinder with the bent push tube is the problem child and probably something with the valve train

Are you torqing rocker arms ect...to Spec???

 

what did it sound like when that pushrod bent? how long did you run the engine before you realized it was bent?

 

The pushrod bends because a valve (pair of valves on this engine) got left down and the piston smacked it (them). Usually due to a lifter pumping up. Odds are the valve is bent. Check to see if one of the valves on the bridge that the push-rod is for is hanging down a little.

Edit: now I am curious - does anyone know the deck height measurement for the pistons on these?

Brian

 

Are you trying to turn this over by hand with the glow plugs in? Perhaps fighting compression?