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New Head - Bent Pushrod

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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 03:52 PM
  #16  
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Pull that new push tube and inspect it closely. A ball and socket shouldn't be binding in one spot. Maybe it's been dropped and has a small flat spot or burr on the end. Even if it was slightly bent it should spin without binding unless it's running into something (like a guide plate) along it's length.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 08:04 PM
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After hitting a point where it would not turn over by hand, I took the advice that maybe a valve is bent. I removed the head for a visual. I looks ok, but i will take it to a machine shop in the morning to have #5 looked at. The engine turns over easily now and does not hit a "wall".
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 08:18 PM
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Keep Turning it Over with the Head OFF and check the TDC and see if all 4 pistons hit the same height at TDC

Normaly when the Piston Smacks the Valve it wont bend the Valve as they are Parallel to one another and only damage is the Push Tube

ANything is Possible though


Did you even clean the sealing surface of the Block to Heads??? Maybe just the PIC??

Those Valve Look REALLY REALLY Clean on the One Cylinder is that the Piston that had the Bent Push Rod????
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 08:28 PM
  #19  
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That cylinder that is clean is the #5 and is the one that bent the push rod. The block was prep'd clean and level with a carbide blade borrowed from that machine shop that did the surface on the other head. I read to take a hammer and tap the valves to check for binding. I'll try that after dinner.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 08:39 PM
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I noticed when I was installing pushrods, that the lifters bleed off very slowly so you need to tighten the rocker carrier slowly and don't use any power tool for this. Your's would be the definition of bent BTW. I'm still in denial stage, so haven't dug any deeper into my similar valve train dilemma.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 08:59 PM
  #21  
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Chet, you still down? I know the feeling. Mine runs better since I've turned off the EGR but it still has the miss. It sometimes is almost nonexistent to very noticeably there. I've almost decided to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer........ not ! I'll find it when i get good and pissed off or it blows up and then rebuild it to Mutants of a Monster specs
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 09:13 PM
  #22  
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Good hint on using a zap gun to spin rocker arms down before torquing. I will do this for sure from now on.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Per4mance
Chet, you still down? I know the feeling. Mine runs better since I've turned off the EGR but it still has the miss. It sometimes is almost nonexistent to very noticeably there. I've almost decided to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer........ not ! I'll find it when i get good and pissed off or it blows up and then rebuild it to Mutants of a Monster specs
I think I'll run out and pull the EGR connector right now, might make me feel better. I just got my Blackstone back and everything is perfect so, it's not my oil.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 09:16 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by quadzilla500dad
Good hint on using a zap gun to spin rocker arms down before torquing. I will do this for sure from now on.
No, please don't. All by hand.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 10:13 PM
  #25  
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Use a New HeadGasket
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 10:27 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by chetspencer
No, please don't. All by hand.

100% agree.... anything on engine use hand tools....helps prevent stripping of nuts and bolts or breakage. Think of the spark or glow plugs, you would never use power on those to either start threading or torque down, right?

I am anxious to see what is binding on your engine, everything in pic looks alright, but can only see so much.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 10:29 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Use a New HeadGasket

the head bolts too, right? only meant to be used once due to stretching upon torque down.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 10:32 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Cubawashere
100% agree.... anything on engine use hand tools....helps prevent stripping of nuts and bolts or breakage. Think of the spark or glow plugs, you would never use power on those to either start threading or torque down, right?

I am anxious to see what is binding on your engine, everything in pic looks alright, but can only see so much.
I would just cringe at the though of paying someone to wrench on my engine only to see them use air tools. Not even removing stuff except lug nuts.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 10:47 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Cubawashere
the head bolts too, right? only meant to be used once due to stretching upon torque down.
Torque to Yeild Bolts Yes replace these only a 1 time use

Studs can be reused

Didnt he use ARP STuds

Maybe Im confused with another thread

The HeadGasket has Crush Factor New is Must
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 10:53 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by quadzilla500dad
<acronym title="By The Way">BTW</acronym> I am running ARP head studs.

You're right Blade, I overlooked that..... just thought I'd mention
 
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