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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

New Head - Bent Pushrod

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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:00 PM
  #31  
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Are those witness marks on the #5 piston?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:03 PM
  #32  
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I saw those marks but no way that's #5...... #5 would be on one of the ends...
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:05 PM
  #33  
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1 is passenger side front and 7 is passenger side rear, here is a link to the 6.0L bible that shows the firing order and cylinder numbers, http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_007.html
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by chetspencer
I would just cringe at the though of paying someone to wrench on my engine only to see them use air tools. Not even removing stuff except lug nuts.
Really even TearDown???
I have this Little Commuter car I can have the Heads OFF in Like 2 HR

I use Mine Alot

There is a Few Rules to it to stay out of Trouble


The way I mount my turbo Its a MUST to use an Air Ratchet on the Ypipe to Turbo Marmon Clamp It Seals Every Time and its Way Fast


But in the WRONG HANDS an Air Ratchet will Do LOTS of DAMAGE LOL
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:12 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Really even TearDown???
I have this Little Commuter car I can have the Heads OFF in Like 2 HR

I use Mine Alot

There is a Few Rules to it to stay out of Trouble


The way I mount my turbo Its a MUST to use an Air Ratchet on the Ypipe to Turbo Marmon Clamp It Seals Every Time and its Way Fast


But in the WRONG HANDS an Air Ratchet will Do LOTS of DAMAGE LOL
I'm just picky when it comes to threads in Aluminum, like in the rocker box and their disappearance or what I'd call high speed evaporation.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:19 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Cubawashere
You're right Blade, I overlooked that..... just thought I'd mention

I probably did To

I just kinda figure Most folks here run ARP when they read enough Info here to dive in all the way to the Heads
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:21 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by mustang_309
1 is passenger side front and 7 is passenger side rear, here is a link to the 6.0L bible that shows the firing order and cylinder numbers, Page 7 Overview: Specifications
Ford.....lol making things so difficult!! I've gotten used to their 1-4, 5-8....... unlike GM's 1357,2468.... now they use same setup??...lol THanks Mustang


SMH
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 12:57 AM
  #38  
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Anytime. Glad to help out when I can.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 02:41 AM
  #39  
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I am like you all, anxious to see what the bind was/is. Everything looks ok and it appears the valves just smacked the piston. After putting the new pushrod in, something still caused it to bind after almost one turn around. I will have it checked out this morning just to give it a "good to go" before putting it back on (by using HAND tools and checking by hand rotating a few times around to prove correct assembly. It is a new Head so anything is possible, right?

I am running ARP studs i installed with a Bulletproof EGR cooler. I also have a new head gasket sitting ready ....Harmonic alignment at 6 o'clock, hand tools, and verify,,,,,,,,,,,what else is there? BTW, That is # 5 from referencing the Bible. Passenger side 3rd from front. 1-3-5-7
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 05:50 AM
  #40  
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From: Spanaway
Was there something about doing a few revolutions as you do the torque
steps? Remember it takes 2 full revolutions to equal one valve cycle. I
think the reasoning was to collapse the lifters and not end up with a valve
piston strike.

Anyone recall this or am I just really tired now?

Sean
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 06:35 AM
  #41  
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I bet the lifter for that set of valves is stuck open and won't bleed down, so no matter what the valves hit the piston with a straight pushtube. I would turn the engine over so that I could measure the lifter height (stickout of the pushtube from the block would work too) on different cylinders and make sure the lifter was working properly.

Brian
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 06:47 AM
  #42  
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Pull the lifter out and ck it. It will save you some money in gaskets instead of having to take it apart again
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 06:47 AM
  #43  
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Anyone run solid lifters from Elite diesel? Also is your Oil Cooler new while your in there.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 08:55 AM
  #44  
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Oil cooler was replaced with the Bulletproof <acronym title="Exhaust Gas Recirculation">EGR</acronym> cooler about a year ago. I run oil temp and coolant temp on my Evolution and they were 8-10 degrees separation and im thinking oil temmp was around 190. I did flush the oil cooler with solvent before reinstalling this time around following forum advise.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 12:59 PM
  #45  
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The way we do them at my shop is do the first torque 70 ft lbs, spin motor by hand two revolutions, torque to 140 turn motor 2 more times, do final torque and turn motor by hand 2 more times. Probably more turning than nessary but we don't bind rods this way. I wonder if it was another rod not lined up good after you replaced the bent one. If it happens again watch and see what valve is opening when it binds up. That will be the one where your problem is.
 
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