After getting it back from the machine shop, I decided the best first step would be to seal it up so it doesnt corrode. I chose Some high temp BBQ black as it doesnt require primer and it has the heat tolerance I need; it was half the price of engine enamel also. The can says its good for automotive applications. It dried to a flat dark grey color that isnt far off from the color of the cast iron. Not flashy but thats not what I am going for; just want to keep it from rusting.

 

I ran out of carb cleaner which I used to degrease... I will get another can tomorrow and take care of the heads in the same color.

 

Looks good.

I did a similiar thing:

I also used oven paint - but only on my transmission.

The Block I left untouched -> yet

But the Heads I painted with metal protective paint (to apply with a brush)
There is nothing said of heat resistance, but here it is often used as Brake-Caliper-Paint.
So I figuted: If it can take the Heat of a Brake, why shouldn't take it the heat of an Engine.

It works, bud doesn't look that good as sprayed on paint.


As a degreasant I usually use benzine.
Earlier I used brake cleaner, but benzine is cheaper and works just as well

 

I always try to do my homework on each step of this process... Everyone was recommending high temp paint without primer; the can of high temp engine paint recommends primer but I couldnt find an extremely high temp primer. When I looked at the BBQ paint, it specifically advises not to prime. This stuff could probably be used as a primer but I figured it looked good enough for me.

The other concern for me was the heat around the exhaust burning the paint off. I would like to keep the color consistent as possible.

 

Normal Primer would burn underneath the heat resistant paint.
There are Heat-Resisting-Primers (like RustOleum.com ), but with oven/grill paint or "direct-on-Rust" Metal protective paint not nescessary.

And don't worry about the Heat from the Headers.
The paint I brushed on is still intact - and as i said: It's no special heat resistant Paint.

 

Sprayed header with VHT, reportedly contains a ceramic base, and it has held up well. For brackets, pullery, ect., used Zero Rust, selected black, and that stuff is amazing. Painted a few Ford engines in my time, so far, found Pors Ford blue has held up the best, used my small shop compressor and a cheap HF spray gun and gave it a couple coats.

 

Por makes really good stuff but I am already way over budget on this and that stuff is pricey. I would definitely recommend going that direction for a show or other quality build. This motor is going to be sitting in the dark depths of a 21' family boat.

 

I've painted a couple items with "high temp" spray paint, but I found that they didn't dry properly until they got really hot. Even after several days it remained chalky and would rub off. So I carefully heated the parts over a propane heater to bake the paint. I don't recall the brand of paint.

Your engine shouldn't get hotter than about 220 F.

I would assume that name brand engine enamel is designed to work at this engine temperature.

 

Regular paints are good up to 300° or so; at least according to a body and paint supply store. The problem I have seen is right around the exhaust ports on the heads which can get a bit hotter causing discoloration.

 

Crazy, you are right, they do get scorched there eventually. Also on the exhaust crossover on the intake manifold.

So if the high temp paint will "cook" properly on the rest of the engine, it should be better. Time will tell.

 

I painted one head... There is more masking on these than the block it seems although I may be doing more than whats needed. This paint dries to a really light flat grey. Almost cant tell its painted.