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After getting it back from the machine shop, I decided the best first step would be to seal it up so it doesnt corrode. I chose Some high temp BBQ black as it doesnt require primer and it has the heat tolerance I need; it was half the price of engine enamel also. The can says its good for automotive applications. It dried to a flat dark grey color that isnt far off from the color of the cast iron. Not flashy but thats not what I am going for; just want to keep it from rusting.
I also used oven paint - but only on my transmission.
The Block I left untouched -> yet
But the Heads I painted with metal protective paint (to apply with a brush)
There is nothing said of heat resistance, but here it is often used as Brake-Caliper-Paint.
So I figuted: If it can take the Heat of a Brake, why shouldn't take it the heat of an Engine.
It works, bud doesn't look that good as sprayed on paint.
As a degreasant I usually use benzine.
Earlier I used brake cleaner, but benzine is cheaper and works just as well
I always try to do my homework on each step of this process... Everyone was recommending high temp paint without primer; the can of high temp engine paint recommends primer but I couldnt find an extremely high temp primer. When I looked at the BBQ paint, it specifically advises not to prime. This stuff could probably be used as a primer but I figured it looked good enough for me.
The other concern for me was the heat around the exhaust burning the paint off. I would like to keep the color consistent as possible.
Normal Primer would burn underneath the heat resistant paint.
There are Heat-Resisting-Primers (like RustOleum.com ), but with oven/grill paint or "direct-on-Rust" Metal protective paint not nescessary.
And don't worry about the Heat from the Headers.
The paint I brushed on is still intact - and as i said: It's no special heat resistant Paint.
Sprayed header with VHT, reportedly contains a ceramic base, and it has held up well. For brackets, pullery, ect., used Zero Rust, selected black, and that stuff is amazing. Painted a few Ford engines in my time, so far, found Pors Ford blue has held up the best, used my small shop compressor and a cheap HF spray gun and gave it a couple coats.
Por makes really good stuff but I am already way over budget on this and that stuff is pricey. I would definitely recommend going that direction for a show or other quality build. This motor is going to be sitting in the dark depths of a 21' family boat.
I've painted a couple items with "high temp" spray paint, but I found that they didn't dry properly until they got really hot. Even after several days it remained chalky and would rub off. So I carefully heated the parts over a propane heater to bake the paint. I don't recall the brand of paint.
Your engine shouldn't get hotter than about 220 F.
I would assume that name brand engine enamel is designed to work at this engine temperature.
Regular paints are good up to 300° or so; at least according to a body and paint supply store. The problem I have seen is right around the exhaust ports on the heads which can get a bit hotter causing discoloration.
I painted one head... There is more masking on these than the block it seems although I may be doing more than whats needed. This paint dries to a really light flat grey. Almost cant tell its painted.