WATER SPOTS!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Mar 31, 2013 | 04:29 PM

#16

CountryD

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SurryGent

Chemical Guys have really good products, with good support. If it wereme after removing the water spots I would use a medium clay bar, then seal it,then wax it. You are now ready for summer’s sun. Sealer willgive you about four months of good protection, wear as wax of any kind is onlygood short term. Looking forward to reading your results.

Surry, thanks for the tip. The guys at Chemical told me after I do the water spot remover, to apply the sealant, then I should add a coat of wax. Is this correct or should I do the clay bar like you mentioned?

Mar 31, 2013 | 04:38 PM

#17

IB Tim

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From: 3rd Rock

I have never heard of that......BTW welcome to FTE

Quote:

Originally Posted by 012drw

Distled white viniger reduce 50% with water spray bottle works great, wet the surface let set 30 sec to 1 min wipe dry. it also removes the wax so you have to rewax

Mar 31, 2013 | 04:54 PM

#18

012drw

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Joined: Mar 2013

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From: Sycamore, Ohio

I just spent 8 hrs yesterday doing a major cleaning, this was the what I did wash with soap and water used a 50% mixture of viniger and water to remove the water spots, clay bar then waxed, the clay bar makes the paint smooth as a babies hiny.

Mar 31, 2013 | 04:57 PM

#19

SavageNFS

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From: Wisconsin

Quote:

Originally Posted by 012drw

Distled white viniger reduce 50% with water spray bottle works great, wet the surface let set 30 sec to 1 min wipe dry. it also removes the wax so you have to rewax

Welcome to FTE and great advice! This is exactly what I do. We have well water, so I learned this a long time ago.

Works as well as dryer sheets at removing bugs. For those that don't know about dryer sheets...you will love it. As you are washing your truck (while it is wet and hose is close and ready. Grab a dryer sheet get it wet and rub the bugs off with little to no effort. I mean the nastiest, toughest to remove bugs will come off with ease. Then rinse and rewash the area and done.

Mar 31, 2013 | 05:09 PM

#20

SurryGent

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Country, I would do the clay after removing the spots. Living in Wyoming and maybe parking outdoors, with the sand and salt used on the road all combines to contaminate the finish of your truck. So I would for sure clay it after the spot removal. I think what the guys at CG are saying is if you don't clay then go to sealant. By the way I would double coat the sealer, let it sit for 12 hours before taking it on the road or waxing it. Just one more step in putting a real good protective finish on your truck. If you have never clayed it is very easy and you will be amazed at what it does to the finish. Make sure you wash the truck before applying the sealer. Good Luck it is worth the time and effort.

Mar 31, 2013 | 08:53 PM

#21

CountryD

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SurryGent

Thanks again for the help Surry. I have to leave my truck outside, all the time. When the stuff comes in, Im gonna get up early in the morning and go find a shady spot, wash her, then going to use the spot remover, then wash her again, then going to clay bar her, then apply 2 coats of the sealant, then I will wax that fine *** booty of hers. Ha Ha, I had to.

Apr 1, 2013 | 09:41 AM

#22

bama29fan

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Joined: Feb 2010

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From: Opelika, AL

i had them on my old truck real bad. i tried a lot of stuff and the only thing that worked for me (which gsxr mentioned) was polishing compund and a lot of elbow grease.

followed up with a good waxing and it looked really good.

The old truck was red...the new one is white and i havent noticed them yet.