Painter Woes
So I paid the extra. Finally, truck back from paint and I go to inspect. Sorry, no pics but I'll probably go take some tomorrow and post em up here.
The rust repair on the outside of the doors and above the windshield, perfect. Except the guy installing the windshield put three long deep gouges in the general area.
Next to the 250 symbol, a whole slew of new scratches, looked like from someone's belt, all up and down. Probably didn't have a step to use when he was mudding above the windshield area and just reached instead.
The drip rail. It's coated in chrome, I saw tape on them when I went to inspect them doing it but apparently it wasn't enough to stop whatever he was using to sand it down. New scratches and dents throughout. Whole thing needs replaced and it looks like they're welded on. Guy tried to talk me into taking $300 off the price and replacing those myself. Hello, mcfly... No, you're eating that one.
All the around the drip wells, deep gouges from sanding. I have no idea how the painter thought I'd not notice that.
Inside the doors, forgot to address the issue with the door colliding with the step area, newly painted area already rusting out.
They completely ignored one of the spots they agreed to repair, the rust bubble had already grown since I dropped it off. Back area near the top seam and on the drivers side seam he bondoed a portion of the seam but not another part.
Long story long, I chose the wrong person to do this, should have paid the extra thousand, I'd probably be driving it right now and it'd have been done right.
Rant over, but I do HAVE A QUESTION for the forum. There was some sort of caulk type material in the drip rails, he messed that up too but they installed it prior to paint. Is this right? It can't be right, was like caulk, the moment it shrinks down or weather fluctuates the paint's going to peel up there right?
*sigh*
Rant over, but I do HAVE A QUESTION for the forum. There was some sort of caulk type material in the drip rails, he messed that up too but they installed it prior to paint. Is this right? It can't be right, was like caulk, the moment it shrinks down or weather fluctuates the paint's going to peel up there right?
... but in comparison I like my freedom too much.
Pull off the bed, front clip, gut the cab, remove the glass doors etc. Cost of paint system is 1200-1500 and the rest is labor. I cannot tell you how hot I would be paying that kind of coin and the getting surprises or extra charges for something they left out of their quote. I am hoping I can paint it myself for 3500 or less and that would include buying a decent compressor and paint guns. I'll probably take a heck of a lot longer and I don't have a paint booth or oven but I've seen many done in garages that have turned out pretty nice.
I wish the best of luck to you and hope they get it sorted and make you happy.
My advice would be to get your truck out of that shop soon. He is not going to fix his screwups, if he did not do it right the first time. Take what you can get out of him and take the loss man, sorry to say that, but its the truth. If he agrees to fix it , more than likely it will just sit at the shop while he takes on new work. The longer its there the more likely more stuff is going to be damaged.
And yes seam sealer is applied under primer and paint, its used where two pieces are welded together to keep the seam from getting crap in it and rusting out.
The drip rail is welded on, but the trim should not be. Its an easy on and off if you know what you are doing. Should have been taken off to do the job properly. If you get new ones, I advise against LmC, have a set they are poor quality as you can expect.
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Pull off the bed, front clip, gut the cab, remove the glass doors etc. Cost of paint system is 1200-1500 and the rest is labor. I cannot tell you how hot I would be paying that kind of coin and the getting surprises or extra charges for something they left out of their quote. I am hoping I can paint it myself for 3500 or less and that would include buying a decent compressor and paint guns. I'll probably take a heck of a lot longer and I don't have a paint booth or oven but I've seen many done in garages that have turned out pretty nice.
I wish the best of luck to you and hope they get it sorted and make you happy.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
My advice would be to get your truck out of that shop soon. He is not going to fix his screwups, if he did not do it right the first time. Take what you can get out of him and take the loss man, sorry to say that, but its the truth. If he agrees to fix it , more than likely it will just sit at the shop while he takes on new work. The longer its there the more likely more stuff is going to be damaged.
And yes seam sealer is applied under primer and paint, its used where two pieces are welded together to keep the seam from getting crap in it and rusting out.
The drip rail is welded on, but the trim should not be. Its an easy on and off if you know what you are doing. Should have been taken off to do the job properly. If you get new ones, I advise against LmC, have a set they are poor quality as you can expect.
A wise man once told me when I was dissatisfied with the work done on another project to ask
"is this the best you can do?"
I did, and he's willing to fix it. It's a small shop and they do lots of different things for income there. I gambled and I lost for now but I still have to give the benefit of the doubt. Sucks for me but sucks for him too. I've yet to have to go to court for anything in this life and I'd prefer to keep it this way.
He ordered the trim tonight without argument, I'll let you all know how it goes.
There's nothing like "word of mouth" advertising! But if you still are getting 'pooned,' I definitely agree with the 'rope and a stout tree' idea. No courts, no witnesses and good for the buzzards and coyotes.
You still have trees in Utah, no?








