460 ground cable replacement
#1
460 ground cable replacement
hey all, i need to replace my ground cable. from ford, it's $72. i'd rather go with welding cable anyway, so how do i do the block to frame connection? on the stock cable there is a bracket that's bolted to the frame. i remember reading on the forum that a 10-8 gauge wire is sufficient for the block to frame connection. is that correct?
thanks!
thanks!
#2
#3
I disagree. Every electrical device on the truck (or trailer) needs a complete electrical circuit to work, and almost none of them have a wire running back to the negative battery terminal - they all use ground for that. Any bad connection will give electrical problems, and almost all of those probelems are caused by bad ground connections. The engine is connected to the frame. So is the body. And for that matter, a trailer is grounded through the hitch. But if you take shortcuts on grounding you're asking for electrical gremlins some time in the future.
As to what size wire, the frame - engine wire doesn't need to carry starter or alternator current, so unless you've added some big-draw accessories this wire doesn't need to be huge. * to 10 gage is probably OK, but personally I'd still go with the heavy 2 - 4 gage like the main battery cables. It's not that expensive.
As to what size wire, the frame - engine wire doesn't need to carry starter or alternator current, so unless you've added some big-draw accessories this wire doesn't need to be huge. * to 10 gage is probably OK, but personally I'd still go with the heavy 2 - 4 gage like the main battery cables. It's not that expensive.
#4
Nothing Special,
rla2005 is right as we are talking about 1987 and newer trucks on this forum. You are right for older trucks but all of the 1987 and newer trucks do run a ground wire where needed.
The frame does not have to be grounded. The ground lug on the NEG cable is bolted to the frame for the ground wire in the trailer plug and the license plate lights if you do not have a back bumper. Nothing else needs a ground if you do not install something after market.
The Ford vans from the factory do not even have this ground lug bolted to the frame as the frame is not grounded at all.
The engine, transmission and rear end have no electrical connection to the frame. If you do not think so just ground the frame and not the engine and watch the ground wire from the engine to the safety wall in the engine compartment burn up when you turn the key to start. The drive train has rubber insulators between it and the frame so there is no electrical continuity.
There must be a ground wire from the NEG post of the battery to the body however and it should be 8GA.
Can you name one thing on a truck that needs a frame ground?
There is no need to hash this over as we have already gone over this on the Electrical Forum with the Moderator Franklin2 explaining it.
rla2005 is right as we are talking about 1987 and newer trucks on this forum. You are right for older trucks but all of the 1987 and newer trucks do run a ground wire where needed.
The frame does not have to be grounded. The ground lug on the NEG cable is bolted to the frame for the ground wire in the trailer plug and the license plate lights if you do not have a back bumper. Nothing else needs a ground if you do not install something after market.
The Ford vans from the factory do not even have this ground lug bolted to the frame as the frame is not grounded at all.
The engine, transmission and rear end have no electrical connection to the frame. If you do not think so just ground the frame and not the engine and watch the ground wire from the engine to the safety wall in the engine compartment burn up when you turn the key to start. The drive train has rubber insulators between it and the frame so there is no electrical continuity.
There must be a ground wire from the NEG post of the battery to the body however and it should be 8GA.
Can you name one thing on a truck that needs a frame ground?
There is no need to hash this over as we have already gone over this on the Electrical Forum with the Moderator Franklin2 explaining it.
#5
#6
Just replaced mine with a parts store bought cable. Long enough to reach from the block to the frame then to battery. I pealed away some of the insulation from the new cable and opened up the old clamp from the old wire, cleaned the clamp and crimped it on to the new one. I then put liquid tape on the crimp. This is probably not necessary since the factory cable is exposed at this point.
Now one eyelet bolts to the factory spot on the block, the clamp is put where it was and the other end to bat. neg.
<O</O
Now one eyelet bolts to the factory spot on the block, the clamp is put where it was and the other end to bat. neg.
<O</O
#7
Just replaced mine with a parts store bought cable. Long enough to reach from the block to the frame then to battery. I pealed away some of the insulation from the new cable and opened up the old clamp from the old wire, cleaned the clamp and crimped it on to the new one. I then put liquid tape on the crimp. This is probably not necessary since the factory cable is exposed at this point.
Now one eyelet bolts to the factory spot on the block, the clamp is put where it was and the other end to bat. neg.
<o</o
Now one eyelet bolts to the factory spot on the block, the clamp is put where it was and the other end to bat. neg.
<o</o
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#8
#9
That's it. Works fine. Forgot to mention I probably could not have done it without a bench mounted vice. I needed it to hold the wire so I could pry open the old clamp and then to press it on to the new cable. Without a vice, I would probably have stabbed myself through the hand.
#11
yeah. i kinda wanted to have it all ready when i started the job. oh well. since i'm going to be using bulk welding cable i'll just get a few feet and have extra cable layin' around. not that big a deal.
#13
#14
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