Interesting.....
I thought about this a bit before, the only problem with bending the metal, is that when you bend it, it always "un-bends" a bit. If it stayed as tight as you bent it, I bet it would fix the problem 100% possibly.

Now I'm curious what would happen with some tiny metal "shims", somehow hammered between the metal tabs and plastic, to hold it tighter....

 

When I was at the dealer last year, they had a couple of pallets of PSD radiators outside the shop - I didn't count, but it looked like more that 20 of them heading to the dump.
My 08 weeped a little bit, but was never enough for me to be willing to pay to change it.
I was hoping Ford would come up with a better one with the 6.7's, but aparently some bean counter won out.

 

If you go in there with vise grip type pliers. Some tabs require a different vise grip. You can get eeven pressure on some of these tabs. Which does work. I have just done one.its the even pressure rather than smacking it. But im with everyone else it is a **** poor design . This is where old school radiator wins. Ford dont care how many go bad if under warranty there sent to vendor who builds them.who then pays ford.

 

It almost doesn't seem like a bad design, just poor quality control.

If the tabs held the assembly tight enough together, what would be wrong with it?

 

So they have had poor quality control for how many years.I don't want to count that far. Id like to have a dollar for every one ive had to replace over the years.

**** poor Design.

 

I suppose it's not the best design, but it seems decent enough that even with the bean counters calling the shots, a little bit more tab pressure could have made this a non-issue.

It's not like the seals are blowing out or assembly is fracturing, it just seems like not enough pressure pushing the parts together. Too bad there is no fix, as the cost for pushing them on tighter would probably cost nothing.

 

A lot of the plastic tanks just split crack etc. They all dont leak from the crimped tank.

 

I just had Ford repalce my leaking radiator at 43,000 miles. It is pretty ridiculous that they start leaking/failing at so few miles. Thankfully I had purchased the Portfolio Elite warranty that covers me bumper to bumper to 100000 miles.

Thanks Ford.

 

I noticed a leak yesterday. I can see many threads with radiator issues. Can't tell for sure what current situation is. Have about 39,000 km or 24,000 miles on it. Dealer wants $2,000 for a "new improved" rad. I asked for safety to be renewed and that is $210 plus rear brake pads and rotors, a combo kit to hold them together, axle seals and a tire repair (nail) - total for that $1811 = grand total of $3,811.

Does this seem reasonable?

I have seen TSBs on rad issues - looks like TSB 11-12-4 is latest. Am I correct? I believe it may only apply if hose has an issue. Is that correct?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Check out this thread in the 6.4 section, it may help.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...0-miles-9.html

 

Thanks for this. It sounds like if one has a radiator that has failed as a result of radiator hoses that leak then 11-12-4 may apply. It sounds like it may be hit and miss depending on the specific dealer. Not sure if that is correct.

Another question would be is it normal for brake pads and rotors to go after 24,000 miles?

 

only on a chebby.
j/k, but you must be riding the hell out of them.
I got 45K miles on mine and the brakes are in great shape.

 

Like the rest of you I find it ridiculous that Ford has had so many radiator problems for what is turning into a loooooong time.

I really don't think that it is the design. I think pretty the clamp on tanks are pretty much standard in the industry now, and do have a advantage and over all better record than the solid metal tanks they replaced. Those older tanks would often split the solder seam where they attached to the core. This was due to vibration and stress.

The new design has a flexible gasket that allows for slight movement without leaking...Or at least that is how it is supposed to work.

GM uses the same design and has very few problems.....

So I gotta ask myself what is different. I keep coming up with the coolant.

GM uses Dexcool which is good for IIRC 150k or 7 years. No testing or dash warning lights on the GM trucks.

Ford isn't as confident in its coolant. They require testing. In fact it is so important that they have warning light for it on the dash.

Theory: Something is going on with the coolant that is making the gasket fail. Some chemical imbalance etc. That is why Ford is so **** about testing it.

I think the fix is to get rid of the Ford coolant, and put something reliable in it. There ARE other brands out there, and it's hard to see how they could be worse. Of course a really good flush would need to be done.
And Ford wouldn't like it.

But is just antifreeze. It performs the same function no matter what brand car it's in.

JMO

 

I'll pass on the "Death Cool" from Government Motors.

 

Ford did change coolant for our 6.7L engines and while the leaks aren't as often, we still have them.