tips for getting it to start?
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well, after a month long hiatus i'm reopening this thread again...
last night i finished putting in a new IP (I have a 6.9 but was given a 7.3 pump off a friends truck. He said it was working when he parted out the van although when I opened the little hatch to get at the fuel adjustment screw i did see two little flakes of metal that came out with the diesel!?).
in any event, now i'm playing the 'bleed the lines game' again and want to make sure I'm doing this effectively/efficiently...because so far I can't get fuel to the schrader at the filter head (I was getting it there prior to the IP swap).
so my question is:
how fast does my starter need to be spinning in order to activate the lift pump? Is it possible that I'm only really pumping some of the time its turning over, and the rest of the time the engine in not turning over fast enough to pump effectively? if so i will cut my cranking time in half and only crank when battery is at fullest capacity.
after a day of cranking/recharging i'm beginnign to worry i still haven't fixed this damn thing....
thanks...
last night i finished putting in a new IP (I have a 6.9 but was given a 7.3 pump off a friends truck. He said it was working when he parted out the van although when I opened the little hatch to get at the fuel adjustment screw i did see two little flakes of metal that came out with the diesel!?).
in any event, now i'm playing the 'bleed the lines game' again and want to make sure I'm doing this effectively/efficiently...because so far I can't get fuel to the schrader at the filter head (I was getting it there prior to the IP swap).
so my question is:
how fast does my starter need to be spinning in order to activate the lift pump? Is it possible that I'm only really pumping some of the time its turning over, and the rest of the time the engine in not turning over fast enough to pump effectively? if so i will cut my cranking time in half and only crank when battery is at fullest capacity.
after a day of cranking/recharging i'm beginnign to worry i still haven't fixed this damn thing....
thanks...
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
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the lift pump will work at any speed, even when cranking the engine over by hand, but obviously the faster it cranks the faster it pumps.
on my rig, i added an electric lift pump for priming the system, and with that, the first start-up on my rebuild took a total of less than 2 minutes of cranking. but a mechanical lift pump will take longer.
on my rig, i added an electric lift pump for priming the system, and with that, the first start-up on my rebuild took a total of less than 2 minutes of cranking. but a mechanical lift pump will take longer.
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IT STARTED!!! after a pretty long and epic process the van is up and running. thanks to EVERYONE on here who was so helpful. in the end the main problem was that i had broken my injection pump by not purging on wvo, but i definitely had MANY other problems (air leak, a failed lift pump, mis-adjusted fuel screw) that were coming into play. i'm putting a list of everything below for anyone down the line who is researching and comes upon this.
INJECTION PUMP: Replaced it with a 7.3 but used the lines off my 6.9. Accidently turned the fuel adjustment screw down (counterclockwise) 360 degrees. I misunderstood what "two flats of an allen key" meant. That definitely was one (of three) reasons that priming the system was so hard after replacing the IP. I now have the fuel adjustment screw turned 180 degrees from its original position and seems fine. Might even turn it down a little bit more if that will save me some fuel (will research later). BTW, apparently the 7.3 IP is much more resilient with WVO.
LIFT PUMP: This was the first thing I had replaced (before I knew how to trouble shoot it and before I knew that it was my IP that was broken). Most likely my original lift pump was fine. Put a NAPA one in, and it lasted through some of the troubleshooting (there were points where I was getting fuel out the schrader valve) but by the time I had the new IP in it was already broken. Maybe I installed it wrong and the arm broke off (although I don't think its likely). Also heard from someone else that they had two of these NAPA fuel pumps fail (not the arm, just failed pump) within months of installing. Ended up installing an electric pump and leaving the other one in place.
RETURN LINE KIT: knew i needed to do this even before the IP failed. was procrastinating it and it actually arrived AFTER i had already installed the IP. it arrived a few days after i had the IP replaced and probably was the third reason (fuel screw adjustment and failed lift pump being the other two) that priming/starting was so hard with new pump in.
INJECTOR: One late night stripped the threads being hasty putting a line back on. Replaced it. Always hand tighten!
STARTER: had to replace somewhere in all this.
again. thanks to everyone!
adam
INJECTION PUMP: Replaced it with a 7.3 but used the lines off my 6.9. Accidently turned the fuel adjustment screw down (counterclockwise) 360 degrees. I misunderstood what "two flats of an allen key" meant. That definitely was one (of three) reasons that priming the system was so hard after replacing the IP. I now have the fuel adjustment screw turned 180 degrees from its original position and seems fine. Might even turn it down a little bit more if that will save me some fuel (will research later). BTW, apparently the 7.3 IP is much more resilient with WVO.
LIFT PUMP: This was the first thing I had replaced (before I knew how to trouble shoot it and before I knew that it was my IP that was broken). Most likely my original lift pump was fine. Put a NAPA one in, and it lasted through some of the troubleshooting (there were points where I was getting fuel out the schrader valve) but by the time I had the new IP in it was already broken. Maybe I installed it wrong and the arm broke off (although I don't think its likely). Also heard from someone else that they had two of these NAPA fuel pumps fail (not the arm, just failed pump) within months of installing. Ended up installing an electric pump and leaving the other one in place.
RETURN LINE KIT: knew i needed to do this even before the IP failed. was procrastinating it and it actually arrived AFTER i had already installed the IP. it arrived a few days after i had the IP replaced and probably was the third reason (fuel screw adjustment and failed lift pump being the other two) that priming/starting was so hard with new pump in.
INJECTOR: One late night stripped the threads being hasty putting a line back on. Replaced it. Always hand tighten!
STARTER: had to replace somewhere in all this.
again. thanks to everyone!
adam
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Joined: Feb 2011
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thanks for the update adam, its good to hear you got it back to life
red, i prefer to judge a part by its manufacturer, not its retailer, because some other store is likely to carry the exact same defective pump as napa.
red, i prefer to judge a part by its manufacturer, not its retailer, because some other store is likely to carry the exact same defective pump as napa.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 96
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From: Central British Columbia
Glad you got it running again, adamkat. Just a note about the electric pump you've installed: from what I've read on these forums i hope you did it right and bypassed the mechanical lift pump, as apparently an electric pump pumping through the lift pump can lead to fuel in your oil and engine damage.
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nalts
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
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Sep 18, 2010 07:15 AM
