tips for getting it to start?
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Senior User
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yikes. well i can't get 30 seconds of cranking in anymore. guess i should go get my batteries tested and see if i've blown them. i guess i'll just keep cranking away for a little bit and see if i can get anything to budge. thank you all so much for all your help. if you have any other thoughts/ideas let me know. i'll keep cranking and update you.....
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: western washington
I did some poking around under my van and opened a hole in my fuel line, and didnt know it, went to leave on a test drive,and she started and died..I had to install a small flow thru type electric fuel pump..just ahead of the fuel tank switch,,to find the leak,,,she cranked and cranked and nothin worked untill i found the hole in the fuel line,, metal line had rubbed tiny thin spot,, and i must have pulled on it when doing some wireing..so u must conferm fuel flow to ip put a fuel can on the top of the cab, hook fuel line up, and start a syphen or use a boat sqwease bulb type pump,,all so conferm that the glows are geting power in the same way you checked the fss...good luck
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well, met a guy who is real familiar with a) these vans and b) running them on wvo. he gave me two more tests that i guess proved that my IP is indeed shot:
-i disconnected the hardline from the filter to the IP at the IP and turned it over. had fuel in amounts equal to what i was getting out the schrader valve.
-i disconnected the return line off of the IP and cranked it. lots of fuel coming from there as well.
so i guess that was just to make sure that the check valve at the pump hadn't gotten blocked or otherwise failed.
while the rest of the info is more relevant for the 'alternative fuels forum' i'm posting here too, in case someone down the road ends up in this thread from a google search, but apparently the 6.9 pumps are far more likely to break from starting on cold wvo than the 7.3's. i guess the 7.3's can handle that mistake a little better....anyone know about putting a 7.3 IP on a 6.9?
anyways, i got no money to have this thing rebuilt (shop wants $1200) so i guess i'm going to just put the van to the side for a while and patiently wait for a used one to pop up somewhere. if/when i ever get it resolved i'll holler. thanks to everyone who helped along the way....
-i disconnected the hardline from the filter to the IP at the IP and turned it over. had fuel in amounts equal to what i was getting out the schrader valve.
-i disconnected the return line off of the IP and cranked it. lots of fuel coming from there as well.
so i guess that was just to make sure that the check valve at the pump hadn't gotten blocked or otherwise failed.
while the rest of the info is more relevant for the 'alternative fuels forum' i'm posting here too, in case someone down the road ends up in this thread from a google search, but apparently the 6.9 pumps are far more likely to break from starting on cold wvo than the 7.3's. i guess the 7.3's can handle that mistake a little better....anyone know about putting a 7.3 IP on a 6.9?
anyways, i got no money to have this thing rebuilt (shop wants $1200) so i guess i'm going to just put the van to the side for a while and patiently wait for a used one to pop up somewhere. if/when i ever get it resolved i'll holler. thanks to everyone who helped along the way....
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Westfield, MA
I wouldn't give up on your pump just yet. I had a very similar problem after using Bio diesel that had sat in my tank for several oaths without being run. Same symptoms as your van, would crank but not fire, just like it had run out of fuel. I had power to the FSS and could here it clicking but out of desperation and not knowing what les to do I took the top off the IP and found it so gummed up with goo from the bio that the FSS couldn't move the linkage inside the IP. As a mater of a fact it was stiff to move by hand and the spring wouldn't return it either. I sucked all the fuel out of the IP with a big syringe and filled it with Sea Foam and let it sit overnight. The next day I agitated the sea foam with an acid brush and got all the parts moving freely again then sucked the crap out with the syringe again. Put it all back together and it started right up. The FSS has to be energized when you put the top back on the IP and keep a clip board handy the first time you start it, if you get it together wrong you can have a run away, if this happens simply lay the clip board over the intake and it will kill the engine. I'll see if I can post some pics of my IP before and after I cleaned it.
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JHofffman,
Wow. Thanks for those pics. Yours is a 7.3 I take it? I heard that the shafts on those hold up al ot better, but it certainly doesn't hurt for me to take it apart at this point? I'm still shaky on the whole IP scene though...were you able to do all that without taking the IP out? Will definitely give it a try. THanks!
Wow. Thanks for those pics. Yours is a 7.3 I take it? I heard that the shafts on those hold up al ot better, but it certainly doesn't hurt for me to take it apart at this point? I'm still shaky on the whole IP scene though...were you able to do all that without taking the IP out? Will definitely give it a try. THanks!
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Westfield, MA
Yes You can take the top off the IP without removing it. The only thing you have to be careful about is putting it back on, if you get it on wrong it will go full throttle and stay there, thus the reason to have the air leaner off and a clip board handy the first time you fire it up. The FSS is in the top cover, make two wire leads, one to ground and one hot off the battery, energize the FSS then put it back on the IP and tighten down the screws, that should line everything up. I have done this several times without a problem. I had a contaminated fuel tank that kept gumming up my IP. I finally changed the tank today and just in time because the fuel pick up tube in the rear tank rotted off this week.
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i took the top off the IP and syphoned out a wvo/diesel mix (high on the wvo ratio). wasn't very sticky in there though. i'm assuming that the linkage you are referring to is the stuff on the left side of your photo? on my IP that stuff all moves freely and pulls back into place after i let go. if anything, i'd say its on the wobblier side of things. i can move it front to back (the trajection i assume it is supposed to have) but it also seems to wobble quite freely side to side (passenger to driver side). no way of telling if the shaft has snapped from this vantage point correct?
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Westfield, MA
Yep. If you don't use a separate ground wire it will ark when you touch the top to the IP. I made up two wires to do this. The ground wire has a ring on it to put on on of the screws and the other has a blade to fit on the FSS.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Central British Columbia
I see this thread has gone a month now, without a post, and I'm curious adamkat did you ever get the engine to start? i have similar problems with my truck right now... lift pump seems ok (lots of fuel squirting out of schrader valve during cranking, and filled up a new,empty fuel filter in about 30 seconds of cranking, if that). I've cracked injector lines and a bit of fuel dribbles out while cranking (b ut does not spray out with much pressure) but not a whisper of fire at all, just crank crank crank.
So I'm curious if you got yours fixed and if the FSS was the problem!
So I'm curious if you got yours fixed and if the FSS was the problem!
