So can you pull the clear line and put that in a gas can full of diesel (or put a longer one in its place)? The pump test involves putting the supply line TO the pump in a can of fuel so that you can eliminate everything from there back to the tank as a potential problem. If you get no fuel at the shraeder valve while cranking with the pump supply line in a gas can, you have a bad pump. Trying starter fluid again is o.k. as long as you disable your gp's.

 

First, she will crank for ever if the glows are not geting hot. MUST CONFIRM FUNCTION...wts may come on but have no glows...check for power...check fss, charge batts,,if your charger dosen't have wheels on it, buy one that does...

 

ok. did pump test. was pulling fuel. not sure how fast its supposed to take it up...and i didn't have the most fail safe method, but i'd say it took about a cup or so of diesel up (maybe more?) in about four tries of cranking it (about ten seconds each try). that was with the injectors cracked.

just about killed the batteries on that test so recharing session and tomorrow can try that some more...or seal up my injectors and try starter fluid. whichever seems most productive?

speedwrench. my glow plugs are manual and i had the block heater plugged in for hours today. my batteries are probably getting shot at this point though, so i will have them tested tomorrow.

 

Adam,

Did you get fuel at the injectors while you did the pump test with the lines cracked? I like to unscrew the lines completely, and put a piece of paper towel under each flange nut. They will get wet quickly if fuel is flowing correctly. If you get fuel at your injectors this way, and your gp's are working, it should fire. You can try the ether again, since you have a push button on your gp's, don't use them with ether, and don't get in a habit of using it.

 

ok. went back to testing the pump with topped off batteries today. it definitely pulls diesel, but i'm not sure how fast its supposed to?

in the end i probably got half a pint up there...still nothing coming out the injectors. my filter was pretty much full when i put it back on, but i'm not sure how much it takes to prime the lift pump, IP and whatever lines are in between?

also, i researching other threads i read that the pump should pull 1/3 pint in ten seconds of cranking? definately not doing it at that rate. i'm maybe twice as slow as that? maybe even a little more?

batteries back on charge. ugh. any thoughts while i pace and watch my batteries fill?

 

alright. put a new fuel pump in but still can't get ti to really move any diesel. through that clear line i can see it pull an inch or two of fuel into the line, but can't get it to go any further.
is the next guess a shot IP?

 

well...i'm feelin a little desperate on this. had a borrowed car this week but that runs out next week and so i have to get this running to get to work. here's my updates. any thoughts are appreciated. #5 is something i know i need to work on but maybe need some help...

1) starter: put in new one (old one was on its last legs and this killed it)
2) lift pump: put in a new one
3) batteries: maybe they are getting tired but i can get them fully charged....only get two or three cranking cycles before they run down and have to be recharged though...can't remember if that was normal
4) filter schrader valve: i have fuel up to this point. comes in spurts. first few spurts were veggie oil/diesel mix now its straight diesel
5)FSS: I can hear a click that I think is coming from that general direction when i turn the key on. I know I'm also supposed to check it to make sure it gets 12V but can someone confirm with me how I do that? Also, I was told its the 'center most wire' but I only see two. Is it the one that is towards the cab? How do I check it?
6) Injecion Pump: This is a foreign land to me. I disconnected one of my injector lines at the back of the IP and no fuel came out when I cranked it. Someone mentioned heating up my IP to liquify any WVO that could be in there. I have been plugging the block heater in...I guess I don't fully know how much gets heated by that though??
7) Injectors: All are open. Have been cranking (15 seconds on 2 minutes off) for a few days. Realistically I only get about 6 to 8 cycles of this per day with the battery recharge scene and my schedule. I have heard it can take a while...but this long!? Probably been three days....18 to 24 cycles? I hadn't always closed the injection lines during every battery recharging session but now I do.
8) Gas Rag: With the air filter removed and a gas soaked rag over the intake there I can get it to fire briefly (so long as the whole rag covers the intake).
9)Air Leak: Before this mess I did have an air intrusion that caused hard sarts. To be honest I have not fixed this yet, but assume that it is not effecting the ability of the injection lines to get wet...but thought i should re-mention it in case anyone thinks its a factor.

thanks for any thoughts you all....

 

If I had your trubble this is what I would do, check to make sure that you are getting 12v to the injection pump
the crank for 15 seconds and wait 2 min will save your starter, but not going to prime your truck. Its hard on your stater but you can crank for up to 90 seconds, I do 40 on and 20 rest. have a good battery charger ready or a good pair of jumper cables
Hold the trottle wide open to speed up the primeing
Then while you are cranking the engain over use starting fuild make damn shure your glow plugs are unhooked, you will quickly learn how much is too much when it ehter locks, try to do less on your next try. I use napa premium starting fluid it hasn't hurt any of my trucks That stuff in the black can you can get at walmart won't do the job
I have a remote start push button so that I can trun the moter over and spary in the starting fuild at the same time
it is very possible that you will ruin your starter and batties doing this, but being nice isn't working for you time to try someting else, unless you have anther problem then you have to figuer it out

 

Well, it won't run on it's own with the injectors open, so after this many cycles tighten them down. Plug the block heater in for at least two hours, and point a hair dryer at the IP for about ten minutes right before you try to start it. Put the doghouse in place while the heater is running to keep as much heat as possible in there.
The wire on the driver's side of the injection pump is the cold start advance, the forward one on the passenger side is the FSS. Check for power with a test light or meter, it should have power whenever the key is on.

 

hold up there, there are 3 wires going to the IP area. one goes to the throttle "kicker" on the outside of the IP, right front. the other two go to the top of the IP, the forward one being the FSS and the rear one being the HPCA (cold timing advance). there isn't any left-right position difference between them.

to test for power there, use a cheap test light, ground one end, and stick the other end onto the connection there at the IP.
note that its wise to test your tester by first touching it to the battery hot post, otherwise a poor tester may lie to you.

when i've needed to crank on mine a lot, its been 30 seconds on, 5 minutes off. after 2 cycles of this without a charger connected, the batteries would be starting to get low enough that the starter isn't cranking as fast. it wouldn't make it through a third cycle.

 

josh, thanks for the info on the test light...that's what i was unclear about....how to test it. here are my results:

key in the 'off' position: with test light clipped on batt neg i get continuity to both the spade and the connector on both the FSS and the HPCA

key in the 'on' position (dash lights but not cranking): with test light on batt neg i get continuity at the spade BUT NOT the connector for both the FSS and the HPCA

key in 'on' position: when i pull the connector on and off the FSS i hear a faint click. i believe it clicks when i remove the connector only...not when i put it back on.

does this mean i don't have power to the fss?
to test voltage do i just disconnect connector, turn key on and stick one end of my volt meter on the spade and one on the connector?

 

.. So you DO have power with the key OFF, but DONT have power with the key ON???

Try this, jump a wire from the battery + to all both spades on the IP itself, (high idle solenoid dont matter)

Shoot it some ether and crank.

I can crank for about 2 minutes straight if i wanted too.

If you do ^ and still no start, the FSS is bad, or the IP is bad.

If it does start.. well its wiring then and your on your own

 

your description there almost sounds like you're using some kind of continuity tester. i'm talking about using something really simple like this one
when using one of these, clip the wire to a convenient ground, then test the tester by sticking the probe against the hot battery post. adjust ground if needed to get it to light. now that your tester is proven to work, stick the probe into the FSS connector. in many cases you can get it to light without removing the connector. there should be power there, and power means it will light up.

note that for this kind of testing, i leave the voltmeter in the drawer and just use the test light. either i have power or i don't.

 

nothing is too obvious to tell me folks! i was using a continuity tester. don't really know the difference (it has batteries in it?) but i had a cheap test light like the one you showed that i've never used. tested again and i have power to the FSS with key on...no power with key off.

Hairy, I tried running a jumper with the injectors cracked just to see if i could get them wet. They didn't get wet but batteries were pretty low at that point anyways. Assuming my new test light experiment provides the info we needed.

So I have power to the FSS....now what??

 

and thats why i ask google for a pic of what i want you to use they say a pic is worth a thousand words

so we have power to the IP, that tells me it'll respond the same when wired normally as it will when you have a jumper wire there like hairy had you doing for a test.

if i remember right, we have now proven that you have fuel to the IP, power to the FSS, but an old IP that had frozen fuel in it... as was mentioned a few posts earlier, be a little more agressive on the cranking, give it a good 30 seconds on before taking a break. if its dealing with air intrusion on top of everything else, the 15 seconds you've been doing might barely be enough to keep up with the fuel bleeding back down.

unless you manage to get it going with a bit more cranking, you'll likely need to get your IP rebuilt, or find a spare one somewhere