I have a few electrical problems on my 96' bronco and it doesn't really bug me but it's rather cold out so the no heat situation is irritating.

1st off is my electrical locks. They quit working a few months ago and i haven't had much time to look into it, but from what i have read, everyone is saying to check the grounds. I checked where the ground should be located and they were clean, un-corroded and seemed fine but i still don't have any electric locks. Could the lock motor just be shot? or could it be a feed wire issue.

2nd is my heater blower motor. It's an intermittent issue that is getting on my nerves. You can start the truck up and turn on the fan switch and you get nothing, go for a drive, hang at a friends then go to leave and suddenly, IT WORKS. Other times it won't be working while i'm driving and then suddenly it's working. I can feel heat coming through the vents when its not working. Today i installed a new switch and that clearly wasn't the problem so i pulled out a tester and went to the plug for the blower motor. When the switch is on it's lowest 2 settings i have 0 volts at the plug and on it's highest too I have 12 volts at the plug. I tried to just straight wire from the battery to the fan and it refused to turn on, BUT when i went to drive it later that night... I started it up and turned on the blower motor and it was working. I turned it off because it was already chilly out and cold air wasn't helping. Take off down the road and after the engine is warmed up, flip it back on and once again I have nothing... 40 minute trip and it refused to turn on.

Could it be a ground issue as well? Resistor plate? or is the blower motor itself shot? (it's not seized because i pulled it out today and it spins easily.)

 

best bet... blower motor, if you jump power straight to it (and ground the other pin) and nothing happens its bad. you mentioned 0 volts at the motor on the first 2 switch positions. your resistor may be bad as well. i would put the motor in it first and see if you have different speeds. it bypasses the resistor on high, so even if it is bad youll still have air flow. electric motors have three windings in them and 2 brushes like an alternator. if one winding burns out and thats where the motor comes to rest, the next time you try to turn it on it wont go. try to tap it or spin it a bit to get it past the dead spot and it should come to life. as for the locks, you checked the fuse right? lock motors are common but not at the same time. i dont have a wiring diagram in front of me but ill see what i can dig up. if they went out together its going to be somewhere before the drivers switch, like in the drivers door jam or something. sorry for the long post hope it helps!

 

Ill have to check it out tomorrow but tht makes a lot of sense about motor. The locks I was told power comes in from the passenger side and I forget where the ground is but it's behind one of the 2 kick panels.

 

ive got a wiring diagram now (haynes manual). power from the fuse splits off to both switches (blk/wht wire) and grounds through the drivers switch from two black wires, one for lock one for unlock. when you hit the button can you hear either lock try to work? how do the switches feel? looks like you might be pulling apart your doors and tracing wires. you can hotwire your lock cyls like you did with your blower. one way will be lock, reversing it will be unlock

 

The locks don't feel any different now then when they used to work and I don't hear them even attempting to work.

 

looks like youre pulling apart your doors and looking for a broken wire or bad switch. you did check the fuse right?

 

Ya the fuse was the very first thing I checked out of instinct.

 

There is no fuse on the door lock circuit. The OCPD is an auto-resetting circuit breaker (thermal trigger). If it were the problem you would not have your power lumbar support in the front seats, if you have an electronically shifted transfer case it would not shift, and probably most obvious... the tailgate glass wouldn't open and close. I'd be checking Ground F which is located behind the bottom of the left (driver's) cowl panel (driver's kick panel). If you find this ground and all wires coming into it to be intact and not corroded then your next location to check is inside the doors. The door lock power is split at the fuse block. (If you had power window issues then you would need to look to the passenger door first).

 

As far as I know all other electronics work except the door locks (and my oil pressure gauge but that has been broke since day 1.) so guess I'm checking the door because I know the ground is good.