Egr eliminator plug
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Egr eliminator plug
1995 f150, 5.8L.
Egr elim from rjm Didn't work, any ideas for turning off the CEL? Egr tube and all emissions are gone from this truck. Resistors are on all actuators and no codes from them, Only a code for the egr.
I'm not putting all emmisions equip back on.
I know about pinging, mpg theories, and all else from removing emmisions, I didn't do it! Lets not rehash old threads addressing the why?
What are my options? OBD1. Can I just hook up the evr and zip tie it down? A chip? What brand? Lost... Truck runs perfect. Just annoyed by cel and want it for alerting me to real problems. Thanks.
Egr elim from rjm Didn't work, any ideas for turning off the CEL? Egr tube and all emissions are gone from this truck. Resistors are on all actuators and no codes from them, Only a code for the egr.
I'm not putting all emmisions equip back on.
I know about pinging, mpg theories, and all else from removing emmisions, I didn't do it! Lets not rehash old threads addressing the why?
What are my options? OBD1. Can I just hook up the evr and zip tie it down? A chip? What brand? Lost... Truck runs perfect. Just annoyed by cel and want it for alerting me to real problems. Thanks.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
There is no way to completely eliminate the EGR without a tuner, so you have to reinstall the EGR valve and sensor and connect it to vacuum and the computer. You do not need to reconnect the EGR tube however just put a piece of sheetmetal between the valve and intake manifold.
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With a chip, or tuner? Thought I couldn't do a tuner with obd1. If a chip, which do you recommend?
Block plate already installed. So if I hooked the egr valve and evr sensor back up and just cut the tube off, then zip tied it there would it work for keeping the cel off? You said vacuum...which solenoid will I need to hook back up if any? They are all gone with resistors in their place. Or is it a vacuum line to somewhere else? Thanks!
Block plate already installed. So if I hooked the egr valve and evr sensor back up and just cut the tube off, then zip tied it there would it work for keeping the cel off? You said vacuum...which solenoid will I need to hook back up if any? They are all gone with resistors in their place. Or is it a vacuum line to somewhere else? Thanks!
FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
IMO you may as well bolt the EGR valve back back where it goes so it's not rattling around.. but it's your truck do what you like. You need to connect vacuum between the EVR solenoid and the valve, that was the solenoid towards the front on that bracket near the coil, and of course that solenoid needs to be connected to a vacuum source and the computer.
Yes there are tuners available for OBD1 but all use laptop based software to control a hardware module that is permanently connected to the vehicle computer. Chips are also available too but you'll have to check with the manufacturers to see if they can disable EGR or not.
Yes there are tuners available for OBD1 but all use laptop based software to control a hardware module that is permanently connected to the vehicle computer. Chips are also available too but you'll have to check with the manufacturers to see if they can disable EGR or not.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: New York
To further Paul's comments, on a EEC-IV (OBDI) PCM, to do any sort of tuning you need a J3 adapter and chip. It's nothing like a EEC-V PCM which can be "flash-tuned" (no additional permanently installed hardware required). Of course, you also need some sort of tuning software AND someone knowledgeable in the data structures and strategy of your particular PCM.
^^^ That's a lot of requirements just to eliminate an EGR-driven CEL. I would either live with it or do as Paul has suggested - just hook up the blocked-off valve and solenoid (electrically and vacuum). It's similar to the approach taken by many of sticking a wadded-up ball of aluminum foil in the EGR tube. The engine *may* need less ignition advance as a result, but probably not. In fact, you'll still likely be able to run greater than spec 10 degrees.
^^^ That's a lot of requirements just to eliminate an EGR-driven CEL. I would either live with it or do as Paul has suggested - just hook up the blocked-off valve and solenoid (electrically and vacuum). It's similar to the approach taken by many of sticking a wadded-up ball of aluminum foil in the EGR tube. The engine *may* need less ignition advance as a result, but probably not. In fact, you'll still likely be able to run greater than spec 10 degrees.
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Thanks guys. I ended up cutting off the EGR tube, bolting the EGR and EVR back on, the blockplate is already there, then hooked up the EVR soleniod to it's electrical connection, then top tube to EGR, bottom tube to vacuum tree. All is great! CEL is off, and runs great.
Can you tell me how it will run differently the way I had it before with the CEL on, versus how I have it now? Anything different or did I just take off the CEL? Timing or A/F different now?
Can you tell me how it will run differently the way I had it before with the CEL on, versus how I have it now? Anything different or did I just take off the CEL? Timing or A/F different now?
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: New York
I'm 99.4% sure it will run exactly the same. To the best of my knowledge, there is no alternate routine that gets run if an EGR fault is detected, it merely sets a code and triggers the CEL.
FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
If you have the base timing set at 10deg which is factory spec you won't notice any difference in the way the engine runs, if however you are stretching the limits of timing advance like I do with my truck(currently at 16deg I think) then you would have to take a degree or two out with the EGR blocked off.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: New York
Better combustion efficiency, which equals better power production and fuel mileage. But mind you, we're splitting hairs - very small gains, and if you go too far you'll start detonating, and that's bad.
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