Motor removal
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Woodbine,MD
Motor removal
Getting ready to pull my motor for oil pan replacement . Can anyone tell me where I can find find a post where someone else has done a motor pull for some instuctions and if there are any tips on what else I should look at while I have it out . I'm going to do some things while I have it out and have access to everything . Also going to replace brake lines with the open access I'll have with the motor out . Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,470
Likes: 3
From: Pea Ridge, AR
Jason, did a pretty decent thread on the subject for instances like this.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...=pulling+motor
All I could add would be make sure you use the ford sealant.
While you had the pan off you might consider replacing the oil jets on the piston jets as cheap insurance down the road too Riffraff Diesel: Welded Piston Oil Jets
It's also a good time to address any up pipe issues since they will be easily accessible, as well as the oil cooler rebuild.
Riffraff Diesel: Oil Cooler Seal Kit
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...=pulling+motor
All I could add would be make sure you use the ford sealant.
While you had the pan off you might consider replacing the oil jets on the piston jets as cheap insurance down the road too Riffraff Diesel: Welded Piston Oil Jets
It's also a good time to address any up pipe issues since they will be easily accessible, as well as the oil cooler rebuild.
Riffraff Diesel: Oil Cooler Seal Kit
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 453
Likes: 122
Depending on how your's are (mine were an SOB), theres a trick to the fuel line removal/tool. Took me a long time to perfect it, but if you take a small ball-pin hammer and tap the tool up in you will feel the lines separate, then just wiggle back and forth and the lines will disconnect. That was the hardest part to pulling the motor, everything else is cake.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 453
Likes: 122
I yanked the whole front clip, I had the time and space to do so, at a minimum I think you atleast have to pull the radiators to get it far enough forward for the up pipes to clear.
Doesn't take very long to pull all that off and makes everything ALOT easier (I couldn't imagine trying to put it back in).
Youdon't have to decompress the AC system though (I did) you can just take the pump off and lay it to the side.
Just make sure you keep everything organized it makes putting it back together go ALOT faster. Trust me, I know
Doesn't take very long to pull all that off and makes everything ALOT easier (I couldn't imagine trying to put it back in).
Youdon't have to decompress the AC system though (I did) you can just take the pump off and lay it to the side.
Just make sure you keep everything organized it makes putting it back together go ALOT faster. Trust me, I know
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
Yanked my whole front end down also.
X2 on ^^^ comment about the fuel "quick" disconnects. *shudder*
I dont like them very much either.
Clean the total hecko out of them before attempting the disconnect... simple green is your best friend.
2 ton cherry picker.
Dont try it with a 1 ton ( in my opinion it just isnt enough)
Put the crane on 3/4 plywood if you dont have a slab. Have a hefty prybar ready to move the crane around with an inch at a time. A nice flat level grade is your friend. Simple green is your friend.
The harbor freight 1ton engine stand held my motor... but i had to use the cherry picker to spin it over. That is a LOT of weight.
With the bumper and grille all out of the way... makes it reeeeally easy to freshen up paint.
And thoroughly clean the engine bay.
X2 on ^^^ comment about the fuel "quick" disconnects. *shudder*
I dont like them very much either.
Clean the total hecko out of them before attempting the disconnect... simple green is your best friend.
2 ton cherry picker.
Dont try it with a 1 ton ( in my opinion it just isnt enough)
Put the crane on 3/4 plywood if you dont have a slab. Have a hefty prybar ready to move the crane around with an inch at a time. A nice flat level grade is your friend. Simple green is your friend.
The harbor freight 1ton engine stand held my motor... but i had to use the cherry picker to spin it over. That is a LOT of weight.
With the bumper and grille all out of the way... makes it reeeeally easy to freshen up paint.
And thoroughly clean the engine bay.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Woodbine,MD
How much was the engine stand ? Not really looking forward to doing this but I can go over some other things while I have access to everything . About how long did it take you to get it out ?
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Locomotive breath
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Mid Oh. Ponderosa
It was 129 and change when i bought mine last May. About five hours tops, along with removing the front end it seems like a lot of work but not that bad at all. A note on the a/c compressor, once I had mine off I just swung it over the fender liner, with the hoses and condenser over the fender, and did not have to disconnect the lines. Just isolate the nuts and bolts that go with each part and it will go back together easier.
Last edited by DISLFVR; Feb 25, 2013 at 08:42 PM. Reason: text.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 453
Likes: 122
4 hours my first time coming out, by myself. You'll want to find a friend to help you put it back in, its kind of tricky/fidgety at first and helps to have someone up top while your underneath with a jack on the tranny.
I little tid-bit time saver if you jack the trannies front end up a few inches the motor will slide right into the bell housing (this is where having a partner or 2 will help). Going back in....about 4 hours with putting the turbo back on and everything.
I little tid-bit time saver if you jack the trannies front end up a few inches the motor will slide right into the bell housing (this is where having a partner or 2 will help). Going back in....about 4 hours with putting the turbo back on and everything.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Woodbine,MD
What about rear main seal or oil pump ? Had a few people tell me I should think about it while I had the motor out . Trust opinions here more than those other people . I'm of the mindset if it ain't broke dont fix it .
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Quaker Hill
I learned the hard way on mine. Use the Ford/international sealant. Regular Permatex doesn't hold up. Also, be careful not to punch the turbo orings when you put it back together. It looks like a huge rear main oil seal leak. Had a buddy who claimed he pulled his without removing the turbo, but have no idea how the heck he did it.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Huntington WV
Before you pull the fuel lines off, make sure you bleed the pressure from the lines or you may get a face full of surprise!
Pulling the front clip is a personal choice, I pull them to have more room to work around in and it's pretty easy.
Rear main seals are pretty good in these, but I'm a believer if it has a lot of miles and you are already there then why not do it.
Use a little grease to hold the turbo orings onto the pedestal to help keep them from moving.
Use tags and mark everything, what seems like a piece of cake today will be lost to memory tomorrow.
Kevin
Pulling the front clip is a personal choice, I pull them to have more room to work around in and it's pretty easy.
Rear main seals are pretty good in these, but I'm a believer if it has a lot of miles and you are already there then why not do it.
Use a little grease to hold the turbo orings onto the pedestal to help keep them from moving.
Use tags and mark everything, what seems like a piece of cake today will be lost to memory tomorrow.
Kevin
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