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Well, I've given in to the fact that the pickup tube for the LPOP is cracked and I'm going to have to pull the motor. Most likely on two or three weeks. Definitely before it starts getting cold. The removal is seeming pretty straight forward, and with two air lines and 2 or three of us working on it, I'm guessing we should be able to pull it within 6 hours or so, and reinstall taking 9 or 10. Since we all know that things always come apart WAY easier than they go back together. So here is what I'm needing from you guys. Suggestions. Basically, I'm broke, so anything I do will have to be done on the cheap.I'm planning on just replacing the LPOP as well as the pickup tube, just because I'm in there. I'm also planning on pulling the cooling jets and having them welded up. Other than this, what else should I do while this bad boy is hanging in mid air? Also, I'm guessing that my normal engine stand will be too weak to hold, let alone rotate this motor, are there any suggestions other than working on it from underneath? Thanks guys
Is there a way you could rent an engine stand?
You really want to have the mating surface for the oil pan dry and oil free, so that the silicone gasket maker can bond the engine to the oil pan without leaking anywhere.
Just about the only way to do that is to flip the engine over, or let it hang for a few days and drip off, then clean up the surface with rags and brake clean.
I'll have the pan off, so the seals will be getting done no matter what. It just feels like if I'm going to all of the hassle of pulling the motor, there should be more than an hours worth of work done to it.
I won't be doing it for probably 3 weeks, so by then I should have 3k on the oil, so I'll probably send in for a rush OA to see if there are any other issues before hand also.
From what I've read, the cooling jets are just pressed together and have been known to seperate and fall into the oil pan and restrict oil flow. Some guys have pulled them out and welded them together to keep that from happening. I would hate to pull the motor and not weld them, only to have one come loose later on and have to pull the motor again.
Busy at work all day, wrenching on customers cars.
What you have laid out to do, there isn't much else to say except get it done and be satisfied that you got it done right.
The only other thing I would do is inspect the pan closely while you have it off for rust or potential leak problems. I would plan on putting a coat of POR15 or a similar product on it while it is off. That is a lot easier than having to do it when it is in the truck.
My pan is rusty, so I need to get it done before winter and being able to do it off the engine would make it an easier job.
The only other thing I would do is inspect the pan closely while you have it off for rust or potential leak problems. I would plan on putting a coat of POR15 or a similar product on it while it is off. That is a lot easier than having to do it when it is in the truck.
x2
Take lots of pictures of how things came apart and maybe even keep a pen & notepad handy, just in case you need to write something down.
I would suggest pulling the valve covers and re-torqueing the inj. hold downs and the rocker arm pedestal bolts. Also ohm out the glow plugs and injs. and visually inspect the UVCH. If you haven't done the quarter mod or the retainer clips do it now. No better time then when you have the engine on a stand. You will need to pull the turbo so have new o-rings on hand.
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