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I wish we could get a chart like that specific for the 4r100 as it pertains to the 7.3, but a good chart nonetheless. I will talk more in depth with the only mechanic I know and find out more information, see if I can't find some science.
As far as my experience overheading 4R100, a few years ago my father's 2000 F350 got high sided when plowing. Trying to get it unstuck the trans temp hit 325*F. Transmission made it another 7k before it fried out.
Had a pair of 4EODs go out about the same way but never had a trans gauge on them.
Not to fuel any flames but I had the misfortune of getting high sided today in my 02, which is basically a clone of my father's truck at the time but with a 6.0 cooler.... trans temps never cracked 160* despite my winter front still being on and closed.
Most of the time plowing the trans was between 120-140... almost too cool.
What I had to deal with 28 inches of untouched powder..
So specific to "one" of you questions. I bought my '01 from the original owner who had a 10.5' cab-over camper fully contained with generator and all. Probably not even close to the weight of a small TT He had no gauges just stock XL. Transmission done at 36K - one way diode clutch failure.
Mine's an '01, the diode is an issue on them as mine went out as well. Having said that I guess Ford built one special 7.3 truck who's tranny lasted over 300k miles towing heavier than what you guys tow probably combined before any tranny malfunction.
That's not what I asked, it could be 500 degrees for all it matters. I asked how many miles did you get on the tranny with the stock cooler while pulling. Did your trans only last 5k miles, 10k, 100k? More?
Around 86K I lost the original, I have 300K on the rebuild with the 6.0L cooler in front of it for a total of 386K on the whole truck.
When talking trans temps, outside air temp does not seem to come up. I read that transmission temp on normal driving will run about 70 degrees higher than outside air temp. I live on the Oregon coast where in the summer it will be in the upper 60's to low 70's. Some guy in Texas will have outside temps in the tripple digits. I have never heard of anyone blowing a tranny because the tranny temp was too low. So, I like the 6.0 cooler and with my trans temp gauge I don't worry as much about it anymore.
I have never heard of anyone blowing a tranny because the tranny temp was too low.
I've done it.
It was an older van with a 351 and a C6. I was towing a Ranger on a trailer with an outside temp of about -30°F. The fluid gelled in the cooler and the trans didn't get lube. It overheated, puked fluid which started a small fire, and died. One rebuild later it was back on the road.
Mine's an '01, the diode is an issue on them as mine went out as well. Having said that I guess Ford built one special 7.3 truck who's tranny lasted over 300k miles towing heavier than what you guys tow probably combined before any tranny malfunction.
I dunno any longer.
must have been mine.. 360k on the clock and it was always towing heavy.. (14-26k gross)
Perhaps the secret super pimp sauce for long lasting trannies lies in the paint.? Both of our elitist road warriors are (were) dark highland green.
Tell me that's the one you're talking about, please.
Sorry to disappoint but it was my blue truck. Actually my green one was the problem child. Boss had to have it cuz it was green. Come to find out it was a flood truck out of Florida. Always had some weird issue tho.
That said I bet you have rebuilt many more for overheating!
You'd lose that bet! Rebuilding transmissions was never my thing. I've rebuilt very, very few transmissions. I was never a trans tech, they rebuild A LOT of transmissions.
WOW!!! Sorry gentlemen my question was very simply if you thought you needed to keep your trans cooler why a $300 6.0 cooler and not a add on from the parts store.
I have 373k on my stock truck (e99 350) I dont tow all the time but do have trailers and campers I pull it is a DD but I live in the Dallas TX area and was just looking to get some longevity out of what I have. The answer I came up with is get gauges and if I feel it nessacery to cool it down a bit any cooler would probably help I dont want the trans thermastat so if it does get hotter than I like I might start with a $50-60 one from the parts house. Thanks for all the good input I did defiantly learn something.
The cheap cooler from a parts house may make your trans hotter.
Cheap coolers are usually tube and fin, not stacked plate. Tube and fin can be identified by one tube that snakes back and forth. Stacked plate has one tube on each side with several connections between them.
A tube and fin is much more restrictive and has less cooling capacity. If there is enough restriction it will open the transmission's pressure bypass and reduce the flow of oil to the cooler. Combine that with the tube and fin's lower heat transfer capability, and you could be worse off than if you didn't change anything.
The cheap cooler from a parts house may make your trans hotter.
Cheap coolers are usually tube and fin, not stacked plate. Tube and fin can be identified by one tube that snakes back and forth. Stacked plate has one tube on each side with several connections between them.
A tube and fin is much more restrictive and has less cooling capacity. If there is enough restriction it will open the transmission's pressure bypass and reduce the flow of oil to the cooler. Combine that with the tube and fin's lower heat transfer capability, and you could be worse off than if you didn't change anything.
I dealt with this exact situation about a year ago. I bought my truck used and the PO deleted the radiator cooler and stock air-to-oil cooler, replacing them with a cheap tube and fin "parts store cooler".
My trans would heat up much higher than it should of. I started by replacing the tube and fin cooler with a stacked plate Tru-cool cooler - dropping trans fluid temp by nearly 50*. Later I replaced the radiator, putting the internal cooler back into play. Here are some of my threads:
EDIT: (With lots of help from Mark, thanks again!)