Air condition switch???
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Air condition switch???
The fan for the air condition on my f 250 diesel 2001 does not work. I pulled the regulator out, the one that is in the fan box inside the motor box passenger side. Water dripped on the unit and shorted out the "springs" and actually melted the wire plug.
I got a new regulator and plug, soldered and heat shrinker and still no fan. I pulled the fan out hooked it up to 12 volts direct, no problem. Checked the fuses, all good.
What else am i missing? Anyone know?
thanks Alan
I got a new regulator and plug, soldered and heat shrinker and still no fan. I pulled the fan out hooked it up to 12 volts direct, no problem. Checked the fuses, all good.
What else am i missing? Anyone know?
thanks Alan
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,333
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From: St. Louis, Mo.
Must be a break in the wire feed to the motor if fuses are good & youre not gettin 12 volts. - Can you trace the wire back & check for breaks ? Can you check the switch for a/c & see if there is power there
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Palatka, FL
Verify that the wire connections on the resistor pack is tight. The resistor pack is just to the right of the blower as viewed from the passenger side of the truck looking into the engine compartment at the blower motor. I think two screws hold it in place. Do this with the power to the ignition turned off. I have seen loose wires on the resistor keep the fan from turning. Very seldom is the switch an issue. Most of the time it is the resistor pack or the bearings in the fan have failed.
Since you have applied 12V directly to the motor and it can propel you like an air swamp boat then the next thing is the resistor pack. I don't think I mentioned the resistor pack enough times yet.
Since you have applied 12V directly to the motor and it can propel you like an air swamp boat then the next thing is the resistor pack. I don't think I mentioned the resistor pack enough times yet.
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I replace the resistor (i called it the regulator in my firsts post) pack already and the plug it fits into with a new plug, solder and heat shrink. The connection is good. The old resistor pack and plug where shot (rusty, and a short at the plug that melted the plastic plug) from the water that condenses on one of the a/c pipes and drips onto the resistor pack.
I have not traced the wire to check for breaks, but what i can see looks good.
When I turn on the ac, with the engine off, I can hear a click. When i am driving with the ac on, it does make cold air but does not flow into cab without the fan.
The fan is not getting power for what ever reason. Is there a fuse, relay i don't know about?
Thanks for your help.
I have not traced the wire to check for breaks, but what i can see looks good.
When I turn on the ac, with the engine off, I can hear a click. When i am driving with the ac on, it does make cold air but does not flow into cab without the fan.
The fan is not getting power for what ever reason. Is there a fuse, relay i don't know about?
Thanks for your help.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
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From: Damon (South East Texas)
This wiring diagram should help. Blower Motor Relay.pdf It shows the fuses, relay, and resistor block.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,333
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From: St. Louis, Mo.
The diagram always helps -Thanks Roland - Alan - See if there is voltage at terminal 30 on relay - If yes jumper between 30 & 87 on relay & see if u get blower. If no check fuses -(40 amp. I think it was) or open/burnt wires. Let us know back
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Still can't get it to work.
How do i check for power at 30? where is 87? Sorry. I already check the fuses all good. So much of the wiring is covered and taped or hidden from view. What i can see look good.
Thanks Alan
How do i check for power at 30? where is 87? Sorry. I already check the fuses all good. So much of the wiring is covered and taped or hidden from view. What i can see look good.
Thanks Alan
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Ok i see on the back of the relay the numbers, I assume the blower motor relay is the one to check, ? I ask because its is in location 31 in the fuse box, location 30 is the PCM power relay.
Alan
Alan
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Ok I checked for power at terminal 30 and yes power. Then jump 30 to 87 no blower.
If i understand correctly I bypassed the relay a put direct power to the blower and because the blower did not run it must be a open/burnt wire? does the ignition have to be on during the jump from 30 to 87?
Alan
If i understand correctly I bypassed the relay a put direct power to the blower and because the blower did not run it must be a open/burnt wire? does the ignition have to be on during the jump from 30 to 87?
Alan
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I am thinking about a new truck! But i really like this one. Ok when I first replaced the resistor the plug that plugged into it was melted at the yellow wire. I replace the plug and soldered the wires.....it makes sense there was a short somewhere else. How can i test the yellow wire?
Help please.
Help please.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,333
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From: St. Louis, Mo.
Alan - Try it with ignition on also - Yes -This should bypass the relay. Did you double check all your connections at the resistor ? Just to make sure. The yellow wire that was burnt, was this at the resistor ? Try all blower speeds also when bypassing relay.Edit - the yellow wire /red tracer ( goes to selector switch) - try to pull the switch & check behind it looking for burnt or charred wiring.
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I tried it with the ignition on, no. I have triple check the wire at the resistor. The burnt wire was at the plug that plugs into the resistor. I put the wires back in the same position they came out. Green on bottom, black center and yellow tip passenger side red driver side. I am sure the connection is good.
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