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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

How much boost until you need head studs?

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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 10:49 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by tshrager
Muah? I drive like the little old lady from Pasadena! Lol
There, I fixed it for you...


Bubba, you should be fine with the stock gaskets. The additional clamping force of the head studs helps keep things sealed up nice and tight. You can install them one at a time without having to remove the head or replace the gaskets.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 11:01 AM
  #17  
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hahaha lol you guys are funny.

Glenn is that what you ment by one at a time with the head studs? and Nate wouldnt I have to take the heads off to do the springs?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 12:29 PM
  #18  
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Nope, you can do the springs with the heads in the truck. You do the studs one at a time and then either turn the engine over by hand until the piston you're working on is at TDC and the piston holds the valves up, or you can use an adapter on a compression tester adapter in the Glow Plug hole and use compressed air to hold the valves shut while you do the springs. Glenn (Oldbird1965) is a good one to talk to as this is all something he is just finishing up doing to his truck.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 12:40 PM
  #19  
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I'm confused too. In another thread you say you're about to swap in an engine from a '00. Are you looking at swapping this turbo onto that engine or doing these mods to that engine prior to swapping it in? Or are these two different trucks? Just curious is all....
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 01:07 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by bubba_3711
hahaha lol you guys are funny.

Glenn is that what you ment by one at a time with the head studs? and Nate wouldn't I have to take the heads off to do the springs?
Yes, that's what I meant, one at a time. No to taking the heads off for the springs. You have to have, like Nate said, the pistons at top dead center. You don't want to hear the valve droping down and hitting the piston, then its pull the head time. If you take the cover off the ac on the passenger side you can get all those studs and springs in the back. On the drivers side you loosen the motor mounts and jake up on the exhaust manifold with a 2by4 with a floor jake and rock the motor over towards the passenger side to get the rear studs. The farthest one back is really tight getting to.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 03:45 PM
  #21  
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Yes Nate I am going to do this all before I stick it in the pickup. I was gunna do this swap a while back but never got around to it, and yes to sticking the turbo on the SD engine. Do you know if the up pipes are different lengths then the obs ones? I was reading somewhere that you have to switch the up pipes.

Glenn thank you, I was told you had to either pull the engine or put a hole in your fire wall and slip it in through the cab to get the far back one. But luckly ill have the engine out of the pickup for this.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 08:55 PM
  #22  
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Engine out would be the best, that's for sure. I don't know for sure but I think the SD up pipes are different.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 06:16 AM
  #23  
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Yes, the up-pipes are different and I believe one or the other of the exhaust manifolds is as well (passenger side I think).
 
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