Thank you for the update. That is very valuable info. And we are glad you got your problem resolved.

 

Good info to know for everyone.

Josh

 

Congratulations. It may not have been the spring, it might have been a tiny bit of swarf in the valve, causing it to stick. I have definitely seen that with other low pressure oil bypass valves on other engines.

Brian

 

I'll post the results of my most recent oil analysis soon...It'll be interesting to see the oxidation levels after temps like I was seeing.

 

Wow glad I read this thread...Thank you for sharing Donnie!

 

Sorry about all the troubles and expense.

Thanks for sharing, and very glad to hear you got it repaired.


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I don't know if I'm glad to be reading this or not! I am having the exact same issue after a fresh OEM oil cooler and EGR delete. Like you, my truck runs like a raped ape, but eot/ect split is like yours. The bypass system was one of the first places I looked. Like you, I saw no issues, but I have verified everything else you did. It is only the oil filter mount base that needs to be replaced, isn't it? Can't that be removed without having to tear the whole top end apart(again!)? I'll have to look into that and if it is indeed possible I'll give that a shot. Otherwise, if I need to take the manifold off again to chase this ghost I'm just going to do the BPD remote cooler($$$, but piece of mind).

 

Just looked at my truck - nope, can't replace the filter housing base without removing the manifold. Crap. Time to save for BPD kit...

 

Bodywerks,

I considered the BPD remote cooler kit but found the cost to be so high that I just had to repair the factory system. Plus, I had to know what was wrong...

To give you some peace-of-mind, consider the following:

My unloaded, 75 mph EOT runs between 9 and 13 degrees above ECT and around town I see a delta of 6 to 10 degrees.

On January 23rd, 2014, I towed my Jeep (5,300 lbs) and one of my trailers (2,000 lbs) from my home in Florida to eastern Kentucky running 75 mph on average. The delta between EOT and ECT stayed between 20 and 30 degrees and was typically closer to 20 degrees.

For me, the efficiency of the factory system does the job well so I intend to stay with it.

Why did the oil cooler bypass valve fail? I haven't the foggiest notion. It seems that very few have found this problem considering you're the only person I've found with a similar problem.

My concern was fixing the root cause before masking the problem with BPD's oil cooler.

In the end, I spent a lot of money using the "remove, replace and see what happens" technique but I eventually got to the root of the problem with the help of the posters here and am enjoying my truck once again.

Good luck whatever you decide to do.

'06FUN

 

I fully agree with your analogy, wanting to know what ultimately fixed a problem. We know that a new oil cooler cover fixed your issue, but can we look at your old one and say, "ah ha, that's why it failed!"? The ONLY mechanical components of the oil cooler cover assembly that can cause high bypass around the cooler are all part of the oil filter housing base and can all be accessed and removed simply by removing the oil filter. I know because I just did it yesterday. All three of the valves in there are so simple that I would think one could just look at them and see what's wrong with them and understand why they aren't working. I mean, the bypass valve is a simple rubber gasket held down against its seat by a heafty spring. the only way it opens is if the delta-p between that oil galley for the cooler inlet is greater than the pressure in the filter housing.
Since it has been proven highly unlikely that that delta-p is the result of a clogged OIL side of a NEW oil cooler, that tells me that probably what we're dealing with is a lack of oil flow into the housing from where it is designed to enter from, no? Again, there is nothing in the oil cooler cover that would affect that, which is why I can't justify spending that cash in 'hopes' that it fixes it.
I'm wondering if it's the stand-pipe or filter itself that is malfunctioning? Did your new cover come with a new stand pipe?

 

A final update...very long in coming...

In the summer of 2014 the engine developed a noise...a knock. The knock was much heavier than a lifter "tick" but lighter than a rod bearing failure...

I was coming from the 3rd cylinder from the front on the driver side...we switched injectors between holes 3 and 4 with no change.

Sooo, I had the cab lifted, had the engine pulled and installed a reman from Jasper. I bought a dyno-tested complete engine that included head studs, Ford gaskets, a BPD EGR cooler, the turbo and related accessories.

As for the old engine, we pulled the driver side head and found the piston in the third hole from the front cracked...don't ask me why, I haven't the foggiest notion. The engine was reassembled, crated and shipped to Jasper.

And that ends the saga of hot oil and the related frustration.

As it stands now, I can run 75 mph with my trailer and Jeep and have a delta of 12 degrees on average between EOT and ECT. Around town unloaded will show 5 to 7 degrees and on the highway unloaded it'll increase to 8 to 10 degrees...at idle it's 2 to 4 degrees.

Mileage is good...I get 15 with a mix of town and highway driving...17 on the highway if I keep the speeds under 75 and 10.66 mpg on my most recent trip towing a 2,000 lb trailer with my 5200 lb Jeep on board.

As an aside, the reman engine is a good bit quieter than the previous...

I have had one injector failure and Jasper covered it...both parts and labor.

My apologies to all of you for not responding sooner...I was pretty much at the end of my rope with it and just didn't feel like rehashing it. I should have, but didn't...my apologies.

I do have another question that I will address in another thread.

Donnie