I own a 6.0 manual F350 has the egr delete and the studs for the "milled heads"


I would like to get a response from someone who has "first hand knowledge" not "what do you think".


It appears that my oil cooler is going and needs to be replaced.
* have some oil anti freeze foam condensing in the expansion tank
* no condensation inside the oil filler cap
* engine oil temp still runs between 4 and 9 degrees
* have a programmer that I can monitor engine parameters
(just doing egr and tire revs)
* the closest Ford dealer is 208 miles away in Fairbanks
* oil pressure is greater than coolent temp except when cooling off in
extreme cold temp's so I have to keep the motor running.


INTERESTED IN YOUR THOUGHTS
* Tomorrows temp will be quite warm 8 to -21 degrees.


I am replacing the oil cooler with an OEM type. You get a warentee for parts and labor for 3 years. Oil to Air cooling is not acceptable because of my location. I need the coolent temp to heat the oil. Tok Alaska is the coldest community in all of North America where temp have gone as low as -80


I HAVE SPENT HALF AGAIN MORE ON THIS ENGINE THAN WHAT I PAID FOR THE TRUCK BRAND NEW. FORD HAS DONE A REAL DISSERVICE TO THEIR CUSTOMERS. BOOO FORD

 

Will you be doing the work or the dealer thats crazy far away? You're going to want to flush the coolant system before you install the new oil cooler. There's many flushing threads on here.

 

That is the closest to a ford dealer, havn't finish up my shop, still have heating to put in and close to finishing the wiring. Though the temp is warming up working out in -20 is not much fun and is impossible to do a quality job. I am in the bush and I don't want to make a mistake and buy another engine in the process

Thank you Bill near Tok Ak just off the Alaska Canada Highway 99780

 

If there is oil in the coolant you will need to replace the oil cooler then flush the system to get the oil out of the coolant passages then possibly replace the oil cooler again. That would all depend on how much oil there is in the coolant. A cheap cooler from eBay could be used for the flushing process then replaced with the OEM.

 

Thank you, that I know. My question is that it is 208 to the nearest dealer and whether coolent would work back into the crankcase lube.. might want to check what i have written.. Sincerely thank you though bill

 

I drove mine for a while with a ruptured oil cooler. Must not have been too bad I just had sludge in the degas bottle, not a milkshake. I don't think the coolant will go to the oil, just the other way around is what I have been told. I would drive it to Fairbanks but maybe have someone along in another vehicle or have it towed to FB. HQ Auto or Pearson Auto are good with the 6.0 from what I hear. If you can get it all the way to Wasilla there are a couple very good shops for the 6.0.

 

Thank you for the info.
Wasilla is a little over 300 miles from where I live. Going to stay with ford, the warentee is 3 years, parts and labor. Seekins has been really good to me and even though I can do the job, this is not the time to get stuck out here. Seekins will give a car to use also. bill

 

Oil pressure is higher than the coolant pressure. For now if you must run the truck, leaving the cap loose will prevent coolant entering the crankcase.

 

Funny I'm headed to Tok tomorrow in my 6.0 from Wasilla. Bringing the extension cords for the -30!!!

 

I forgot about releasing the cap good idea not only that I can put on the block and pan heater and not worry about the coolant expanding into the crank case it will be around 7 degrees in this warm spell at 4am so I can get away with one hour with the block and pan heater and get the oil up to 40 degrees brfore I start. no hills to speak of and will have only 3 to 6 lbs boost
starting tomorrow we wil get back down into the minus 20s and 30s

Bill

 

I shoud be back around 9 tomorrow night bring your blue cord and look at weatherunderground "terks of the tundra"

 

Ford will honor the warranty when you have studs and an EGR delete, AND milled heads?

Interesting.

Minimizing the pressure in the degas bottle will help ensure that the coolant doesn't seep into the oil, but it does make it easier for more oil to get into the coolant. just an fyi.

 

FORD WILL HONOR THE WORK THAT THEY DO WITH FORD PARTS

tHEY WILL NOT HONOR THE EGR DELETE, OR THE STUD WORK. HOWEVER WHEN i HAD THE WORK DON WITH THE STUDS THE HEADS HAD TO BE MILLED BECAUSE THE WERE WORPED THIS WAS IDENTIFIED BY DOING A RUN OUT ON A SURFACE PLATE... FORD PAID FOR THE WORK BECAUSE THE HEADS WERE NOT CURED PRIOR TO INITIAL MACHINE SURFACING IN ASSEMBLING THE HEADS

THE WILL COVER THE OIL COOLER AND LABOR

tHE COOANT CAP...GOOD THOUGHTON THE PRESSURE WHILE UNDERWAY, WILL PUT THE CAP ON WHEN RUNNING HOWEVER I WILL TAKE THE CAP OFF WHEN i PUT MY BLOCK HEATER ON SO THE COOLANT ISN'T FORCE INTO THE CRANKCASE......MAYBE I'M THINK THIS THROUGH TO MUCH...YOUR THOUGHTS

ALL THE BEST BILL

 

WOW, ALL THE YELLING, LOL.

MANY Ford dealerships will back out of warranty work on a part they installed because they believe that an installed aftermarket part contributed to the failure. In addition Ford specifically says never to mill the heads (when out-of-spec, they say replace). Obviously dealerships in many cases have the latitude to slightly deviate from certain things, but remember - with warranty work, the dealership must get their money back from Ford.

I have been down this road, but am sure you have it well in hand, as a good relationship with the dealership can "open doors". Also, if one dealership promises things to be covered under a warranty, sometimes other dealerships will not honor the work. Been there also.

 

You really gotta understand Tok..... 😂😂😂. I think we got a little taste of it.