I talked to my Tech this morning...he's running some checks regarding EOT and ECT voltages to compare to a truck that is known to be operating properly...

I'll get to you with info when I have it.

Thanks again.

 

Just remove and swap the sensors. They are the same part, so this helps you rule out a faulty
sensor without spending any $$$$.

 

My next step would be to verify oil temperature with another type of sensor. Also, how long does it take to get to where it stabilizes, if it does? Oil flow, as I understand it, is from sump to pump to filter to cooler to sensor (pressure switch and oil temp, then to the engine in various ways. I would start by shooting the sump with an infra-red temp reader when the data is saying it's very hot. The oil in the sump should be the hottest that it gets, once the oil temp is hotter than the coolant temp. I would further suspect a wiring/plug fault, a computer fault, or a ground issue. An engine that is at 250 degrees oil temp (I've done that to race engines before) is really obvious - the oil is literally smoking, the engine is making all sorts of clicking and pinging noises which you can hear with it turned off.

Brian

 

The tech's at my local shop have disassembled the engine far enough to confirm oil and coolant flow thru the cooler. They also pulled the water pump and found the pump and front cover that the pump bolts to be in excellent condition.

They did a flow test to compare a known good 6.0 and mine. The idle was set at 1,200 and the intake manifold to de-gas bottle hose was placed in a one gallon container. The good engine took 170 seconds to fill the bottle and mine took 193 seconds...a 23 second difference. This amounts to 13.53% quicker for the good engine. I find it nearly impossible that a difference in flow this small can be the culprit...prior to teardown with a cooler that was plugged 50% or more the oil temps weren't as high as they are now.

Voltage checks were done on the EOT temp system...based on what little info we can find they seem to be in line...I don't recall the numbers but can get them if someone wants to compare.

Yesterday, after another flush per Ford's spec's we replaced the radiator (we're grabbing at straws) and had no effect on EOT.

And now the favor...will somebody who has an infrared temp gun and a tuner that will allow them to see EOT please take the temp gun with them and shoot the temp of the oil pan and make a note of the driving conditions, pan temp and EOT according to their programmer...again, grabbing at straws.

Thanks again to all who have contributed and the others who frown when they read of my woes...we'll get to the bottom of this one way or the other and I will post every detail so that all can sleep well and the next poor guy has an easy way out.

Donnie

 

Are you removing the thermostat during the flush? Also, is only VC-9 being used? VC-9 will remove rust and scale, but it won't touch silicate deposits. I'm not saying that's your problem, but something to think about. I like the Fleetguard Restore products. Restore is done first to remove silicates sludge (alkaline) and Restore Plus is done after to remove rust/scale and prep for the new coolant (acidic, same as VC-9).

Another thought. I don't think the EGR cooler deaeration port (what it's called in the 6.0L bible) is a good indication of coolant flow through your oil cooler. Just a thought.

 

You sure you don't have an issue with the coolant flow through the EGR bypass coolant hose? This would explain both the high EOT and the slightly lower flow rate.

 

Almost any bypass will be less restrictive than the EGR coolers, so I doubt that's it.

 

Unless it got clogged. Just a thought.

 

I drove the truck 100 miles or so yesterday.

The first jaunt was about 25 miles, 50 mph was the max speed, programmer on "tow" and me being easy on the throttle. ECT held 190* plus or minus 2* and the EOT climbed steadily to a max of about 220*.

The second run was about 75 miles, 75 mph max speed, programmer on "tow" and a bit less easy on the throttle. ECT held 192* plus or minus 2* and the EOT maxed at 236*.

The time it takes to reach these temps is less than 10 minutes on the highway and about 15 minutes around town.

It should be noted the truck starts better than ever, runs great, sounds great and is great fun to drive.

I filled it up yesterday to track mileage to make sure that's still in line with before.

I'll get my hands on an infrared thermometer today and start tracking various temps...hopefully I'll find something different that others have and give me a place to look.

Donnie

 

Just curious, when you get the engine to operating temp have you tried to disconnect the EOT sensor and see what it reads? Also try and plug in the other know good sensor (without installing the sensor just plugging it in to the harness ) and see if it reads ambient temp.

 

Are these OEM oil coolers? There's an aftermarket oil cooler which has fewer larger passages and they don't work as well.

 

Wow, I see you are still having trouble. Those oil temps are still high. What is your ambient air temp, comparible, for the above tests? My outlook reads 185 ECT, 195 EOT, sometimes as high as 200 if working at 20 lbs boost or so, ie mountains, hills, in 4*4 in snow. But at -20 air C or about 10 F air temps. My pan temps would be cool because of this. And I run a winter front.

 

While sitting here pondering your high oil temp issue, I started to think about our hydraulic systems at work, when we have valves in the system that begin to wear out it generates a lot of heat due to friction of the oil being forced passed a closed valve. So I wonder if one or more of the by-pass valves may be leaking by enough to cause the increase in temperature, LPOP regulator, oil cooler by-pass or the oil filter by-pass. Not sure if there is a way to check these or not but it was just a thought.

 

Yes...both of the new coolers were sourced from Ford.

 

The ambient temps have been in the low 60's in the morn and mid 70's in the afternoon.