Recently I replaced head gasket for 2nd time (both with ARP headstuds). I have EGR delete, coolant filtration set up (this has been installed since well before recent head gasket replacement). I run an Edge Platinum, usually on level 1 econo, level 2 when I tow, and sometimes level 3. Mostly, i like the ability to monitor my temps. All pretty mild stuff.

When recent head gasket was done (4 months/10K miles ago), they replaced oil cooler.

And now I am seeing coolant pukes. Not as ugly as last time. My Edge shows engine coolant at about 194, and almost exact same for engine oil temp. I went to local shop and thankfully I had negative test for combustion gas in coolant.

So then mechanic hooks up diagnostic tool to my OBD port. Edge was still connected and I asked if I should disconnect, he said it shouldn't matter. It zero'ed out my temp displays when he hooked up his tool. Then his tool showed exact same number for my coolant temp, but the engine oil showed 233. He concluded I have an oil cooler issue.

When he removed tool, my temps displayed again on Edge, and still showed they were around 194/195.

Where does Edge get the oil temp from, and why was it so different?

ALSO, never had oil move on dipstick before recent head gasket job. Since then, I have noticed after 2-3 tanks of fuel, the level drops to about half way on the full/add area. So maybe down a quart.

Since I have a new Ford oil cooler that has been filtered since day 1, should I look at the bulletproofdiesel set up? I really, really don't want to spend another $2500 for this set up (installed).

How could this fail so quickly? Should I look at other areas?

I recently watched an episode of TruckU where they overhauled a 6.0L. One of the mods they did while everything was apart was installing a billet HPOP. They said the OEM one is prone to failure. Is this something a person should do, and how much will that dent my wallet?

thanks for any help.
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anyone have any experience or thoughts about this set up? seems similar to the bulletproofdiesel set up, but less $$.

6 0 Ford Remote Oil Filter and Cooler | eBay

 

Lmfao, are u serious? That is some guy in his basement making some rig job with old parts. The BPD kit is well,well,well designed and thought out. I will have yet to hear one person that regretted the choice to go with the BPD unit. I was super impressed with the quality and engineering that went into the bullet proof kit. I do not work for BPD either. My truck had its oil cooler replaced right before I bought it, then 20k later I was looking at replacing it again. When you choose the BPD unit you will never tear into it for an oil cooler again. Is it worth it?

 

I didn't look at it that closely, but didn't think it was that bad.

wow, is the OEM cooler that awful that it fails that quickly, after every other mod has been done (like EGR delete, coolant filtration) ?

"Is it worth it".... tough question. I'm so sick & tired of dumping huge chunks of cash into this thing, to make it perform like it should have out-of-the-box. I expect better from Ford, especially after paying the $$ in the first place to buy truck. ALAS...i'm still trying to get past all that and move forward.

Is the BPD unit available anywhere at a better price than $1900? For me, that's a huge chunk of $$.

And before i do that, are there any other things that might be a potentially simple fix, or do those temp readings mean I'm hooped?

 

I would want a third opinion on the oil temp. I would say swap the temp sensors (they are the same part #) and retest but that wouldn't be definitive unless the ECT jumps up on your Edge. I haven't read anything about the Edge having a problem displaying EOT correctly.
Loosing a quart of oil in a couple tanks of fuel would worry me some also, any oily spots in your usual parking spots or under the truck? Blue smoke out the tail pipe?
I (myself) wouldn't be too quick to dismiss that oil cooler setup, but I would want to know some more about it. Lots of great ideas have came from people's basements
Do you know which HPOP your truck has? If the engine is a late '04 build you may have the early style aluminum swash plate style pump and an aftermarket pump may be something to consider, although many folks are running them without a problem I have a friend who is on his third pump. The '05 and later build engines got the cast iron 4-V pump and were much less problematic (if you don't consider the STC fitting).

 

I have an '05. I vaguely recall STC fitting being mentioned & dealt with a long time ago on mine.

Yeah, good idea on 3rd opinion. I was going to disconnect my Edge and get Ford to read the temps.

maybe 1 quart in 3 tanks, maybe longer (as in: 1 Q between oil changes??). I will watch it a lot more closely now. I get a puff of blue on cold start and that's about all I see.

I figure that with 100 miles, it is still pretty low.

 

IF you EOT and ECT regularly are the same temp from cold start to
normal temp, then you are *NOT* reading EOT properly.

The EOT warms up much slower than ECT does.
The SG2 reads them properly - perhaps you ODBII gauge isn't.

 

what is SG2?

I haven't watched cold temps recently, but once it's running, they bounce back & forth within a few degrees of each other, ususally in the low-mid 190s.

 

ok if this guy is testing the truck after it has been idleing for 15 min his diag ois screwed.
exactly how did he test for combustion gas in the bottle?
i suggest you read tsb 09-08-03 for info.

 

he called it a sniff test. he hooked up the kit that has big rubber stopper on turkey-baster thingy, full of dye. if dye changes color to (green??) it is positive for combustion gas (??).

my apologies if terminology & descriptions suck, but i'm sure you get the idea.

this was done after i came to shop, my truck was at normal temp, I shut it off for 10 minutes, then he came outside and hooked up his tester. Probably took 10 minutes with the dye test. Then shut it off, and came back to do the temp. tests with OBD scan tool.

 

yup a bad case of poor / lazy diag. once again see tsb 09-08-03 for the correct way of doing this stuff

 

funny, but ages ago I replaced head studs before I ever had a problem. later, i did EGR delete and SCT tuner. soon after the SCT & EGR delete (done at same time & well after ARPs) I began to get coolant pukes. I paid Ford dealer $110 for pressure test, diagnosis, etc... , and they concluded I needed a new degas bottle cap. I had already replaced it with a new Ford cap 1 month before I took the truck to Ford, but they insisted that is what it was.

Coolant pukes continued. then a different shop did the dye/sniff test. And from there it went to Ford to have head gasket done again. Once apart, mechanic saw 2 or 3 spots where my gasket had blown. They guessed that maybe previous tech didn't torque to ARP's specs.

anyways, I'll get it in for a proper, full diagnostic. maybe I'll get told I need another rad cap.

 

After all these problems do you still have the tuner juiced up or have you set it back to stock? thats the first thing id do. I dont trust those things. Theres no reason a stock truck shouldnt benefit from your upgrades. The tuners the only thing wrong i see in the equation

 

I've been running tuner on "1= Economy", and "2- Tow" (only when I tow). Occasionally, I run on level 3. This is an Edge with 5 settings, and a 6th "unlock" option (I've never had it unlocked). So in the world of big bad-azz tuners, I thought I was running at bare minimum increase.

 

Yes, but look again at the price. For 600 more you can have a uber quality unit.