I just picked up a 2007 f150 5.4L 3V triton engine with 69,500 miles, all stock. I have an AE scan tool and it is still showing several codes after clearing them.
B1352: Ignition key in circuit fault
B1318: Battery voltage low
U1900: CAN communication bus fault-receive error
B1317: battery voltage too high
U1950: UBP communications fault error
now there was more but I was now able to print them but one of them was short on transfer case short, that did not show up again yet. they did just put a new battery in it before I got it from the ford dealer. I have 3 months warranty so I would like to know what these are so I can get them fixed.
Thanks

 

If you still have a warranty, take the truck to a dealer to have the body computer checked.

A dealer maybe the only resource to diagnose the computer.

There could be a possible ground/power circuit issue to cause conflicting codes.

Could be a simple fix, but chasing down a particular wire might require patience.


<CHECK ALL FUSES FIRST><DOUBLE CHECK THE BATTERY CONNECTIONS>

 

Thank you, I do have 3 months warranty on it but I wanted to get some good real thoughts and advice before I go so they do not tell me .....oh that normal, nothing wrong.

 

Goto odb-codes.com and print out the codes and what they mean and take them with you. That way, they will not be able to tell you "thats normal" quite so easily.

 

All of those codes can be set by low voltage . Do you have a CEL ? Record codes , erase , See if they return . Comm. codes can be a real issue . Record , clear , rescan . If issue is still present , go back for warranty issue .

 

I have an Auto enginuity scan tool and I did scan when I first got the truck and there was a lot of codes including the one for short to tranfer case, I did try to save the codes but it did not save ( I still have not figured out how to use the tool) anyway I took it to a tranny shop to have them check the tranny out and he cleared the codes. when I got home I put my tool on and had the codes in my first post.
No there is no cel.
I will hook back up and clear them myself and recheck.

 

I just cleared all the codes and rechecked before and after starting the motor and the codes did not return. I will drive the truck and see if they come back. I did see that my voltage is 11.3V It have a new battery in it.... is that too low???? maybe the alternator is going bad???

 

If you can't save the codes , write them down . 11.3 volts is too low . Ck charging system , ck battery , ( I know , It is new ) Ck. for amp draw . I use my Fluke to ck. amp draw . A good reading is .02 Amp draw after all mod's have reset . .18 to .25 if you have a lot of goodies that draw keep alive power . Anything over .25 is a possible issue longer than overnight . Anything 1 amp or more is a problem that needs fixed . If you need to know how to do an amp draw test , let me know . I will walk you through it .

 

11.3 is only low if you were checking with the engine running. Key-On-Engine-Off voltage will almost always be between 10 and 11.5 volts due to load on the electrical system.

The U-codes you pulled are for communication errors and are often found on vehicles that are operating normally. They are set when a module misses info on one of the vehicle networks or doesn't receive a message back as expected. They are often caused by low battery voltage or the application of large system loads before the modules complete their power-on initialization, like quickly turning the key from "off" directly to "start." The codes are stored to help diagnose intermittent problems in modules, and by themselves do not indicate a need for further diagnosis. In other words, ignore them unless you have symptoms in the related vehicle system.

The B-Codes are Body system related, lighting, accessories, etc. Unless they are hard faults, these can usually be ignored as well. They can be set by not having the vehicle in the proper mode before performing the test, like the key out of the ignition, windows not rolled up, doors/hood/trunk not closed, which is dependent on the exact vehicle being tested. The shop manual will state the exact requirements for the test being performed.

None of the codes you have listed would make me think twice that there is anything at all wrong with your truck. I see these codes on a daily basis on vehicles that don't have a thing wrong with them, and the related tests in the shop manual will almost always tell you to check for related codes or symptoms, and if none are present to just clear the code and release the vehicle back to the customer.

Your check engine light isn't on because none of the codes you have listed are for the power train control module, which is what the check engine light is for. And even then, generally speaking, only codes/issues that affect emissions will turn that light on. You could theoretically have a half dozen codes in your PCM and the light wouldn't necessarily have to be on.

 

Thank you! Running the AE shows 14V.
I did clear the codes my self and rechecked and nothing came back except P1000. I did see there was a wire out of the back frame rail that was cut off from the cap the guy had before he sold the truck. It was hanging down, I checked it and there is no power to it but maybe power comes on at some point???? I tried to fined where it comes from but I loss it (it is running in the frame) by the front of the truck.....Hummm, I will keep looking.