Looking to buy a 78/79 F150 4wd short bed truck/project truck. My dad had a 78 F150 Ranger XLT (4wd 400/T18) and a 79 Bronco Ranger XLT growing up and I have always loved the style.

I am in NC and have been looking... I really want one that is completely rust free. Everyone I look at has bed issues. Either the floor has pinholes/rust or above the wheels has rust. Is it ever possible to find one rust free? Found some that the cabs are clean/frames good.

Couple more questions..

Also - I am assuming that it would not be very hard for a body shop to add the trim to a trimless truck? Quite a few are Custom's - I want a two tone (black silver) Ranger XLT.

How hard is it to add air to a can that never had air? Need it down here.

In case anybody is interested in what I want to do.. plans are for stock dana 44 front, stock 9 inch rear (or something else). I want to go EFI do probably a mid '90's 5.8. Really thinking of a 5.8EFI ZF 5 speed and BW1356 tcase from a F250/350. I want the truck to look pretty much stock except maybe 4" lift to clear 33 or 35's. It will be driven around town alot, not a garage queen.

This is the exact colors and trim I want: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - redsuperduty's Album: 1978 F150 Ranger Lariat 4x4 He did an outstanding job. It the duplicate of my dad's 78 except ours was not a Lariet, it was a XLT.

Any thoughts, comments words of advice are greatly appreciated!!!

 

These trucks were built for work and play. It's not impossible but few and far between... Good luck on THAT quest.

No, not hard per se. Be ready to pay their hourly rate, the cost of the trim, and to spec the OEM attaching hardware. Unconscientous shops will do whatever it takes to mount the trim. Better shops will endorse the OEM pins, clips, etc. It's your truck so it's your call.... OEM is best so start assembly a cherry trim set.

Edit.. re-read your post.. Nostalgic Air Parts, Classic Auto Air, etc.. offer AC kits.

 

I picked up a shortbed that the only rust spot, besides surface rust on the bed floor, was a dime size hole on the driver side fenderwell. I also got it for a steal considering it was in MN/WI it's whole life.

If you can find one rust free, you probably aren't going to want to pay what they are asking. Why not build a brand new one from re-popped panels from LMC or somewhere like that? Probably won't fit like original without some serious work, but seems the best way to go for a rust free bed.

 

Problem is I am not a body guy. Would rather buy a truck with a blown engine trans etc than a rusted body.

I found one with the factory paint still on it. Sides were clean but the floor was in rough shape.. lots of small holes in it. Found others with good floors, but rust above the rear wheels in the wheel arches on the sides.

Cabs do not seem to be as much of a problem?

 

Come to Kalifornia, spend a week looking, drive one home!
My 77 Has no rust, was a Fresburg truck for it's life, and is beautiful,,, just gotta look!

 

You'll be paying a premium for a nearly rust free bed. Why not invest in yourself?

Another way to look at rust is that of an opportunity. Sometimes an otherwise decent vehicle with rust will turn off most folks (like you!) but moderate rust, like door holes and floor pans on trucks, is typically easy to replace. Provide a low-ball bid after identifying all the rust issues and how much a bodyshop will charge to fix it, they will usually reduce the asking price. On these trucks, I would shy away from rotted cab mounts, roof rails, cowls, and every other hard to access or areas that have no aftermarket patch panels.

A Miller 140 is an awesome welder for body work about $750. Figure another $400 for an auto-dimming welding helmet, magnets, grinders, and hammer/dolly kit, and you're on the way to paying yourself back over a lifetime. $1150 will buy about 12 hours of bodywork. That's on the low end of replacing two floor pans at a bodyshop in my area.

$0.05

 

I have a Snap-on mig.. just not good at body work. I have tried it - its not for me. Everything always turned out so-so (when I lived in NH we had lots and lots of rust!). If it was going to be a mud truck or hunting truck - yeah no problem. But I want her to look new and its going to be black. So I would really like her mint. But I agree with you - tools are always a good investment. And yes - body shop prices are high - those guys have a lot of overhead nowadays.

 

Well, doing decent bodywork takes four things: technique, tools, patience, and practice..... it's the practice that makes perfect. I met a guy who stated he couldn't do bodywork either and asked him his set up. He stated .035 wire and and 100% argon....

... .023 wire and 80/20 gas and he is now a happy camper.

Good luck with your hunt.

 

I would advise to take a closer look at the trucks with rust on the bed floor versus the bedsides. Its easier to fix, doesnt have to be perfect, can hide a lot with a good bedliner kit or a bed cover. More than likely, once you start to sand an orginal paint solid looking truck, you will find small pinholes and such rust that just hasnt poked thru yet. These trucks are 30 + years old, and they are trucks.