V10 Headers
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V10 Headers
I have a 2004 F250 v10 with only 53k on the clock. It has develop the dreaded exhaust manifold stud rot.
I have one stud gone on the drivers side now and am planning on have all of the studs replaced with stainless, not sure of the condition of the manifolds. The question I have is would you slap on headers as long as the manifolds are off or just re-use the stock manifolds?
I can pick up a set of JBA shorties for $677.00 delivered. Stock manifolds run about $1400.00.
Would you go with the headers??
I have one stud gone on the drivers side now and am planning on have all of the studs replaced with stainless, not sure of the condition of the manifolds. The question I have is would you slap on headers as long as the manifolds are off or just re-use the stock manifolds?
I can pick up a set of JBA shorties for $677.00 delivered. Stock manifolds run about $1400.00.
Would you go with the headers??
You Keep What You Kill
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,902
Likes: 2
From: Huntersville, NC
I would install the long-tube headers before I installed the short-tube headers. There was a long thread on the Doug Thorley v10 headers a while back and here are some links...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ilability.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...roduction.html
Doug Thorley Thy 218Y C Silver Ceramic Coated Exhaust Headers | eBay
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ilability.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...roduction.html
Doug Thorley Thy 218Y C Silver Ceramic Coated Exhaust Headers | eBay
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Isanti, MN
Couple of thoughts here:
First of all the factory studs are stainless. Replacing them with anything else would be a downgrade.
Secondly from everything I've read corrosion has nothing to do with these failures. Everyone I've spoken with, including the dealer that did my driver's side manifold, insists that the studs typically break off in places that aren't subject to corrosion.
And lastly I believe that one of the contributing factors to stud breakage is the manifold warping, not the other way around. As far as I know the manifold is prone to warping which causes the studs to separate at the weakest point. I wouldn't reuse one of these manifolds unless it were planed otherwise you may likely end up doing this job again. My warranty company paid for a new manifold rather than insisting on it being planed, and complete replacement is the only authorized repair by Ford. The best solution is complete replacement with either a new manifold or header.
ON edit: Factory manifolds are expen$ive! My driver's side manifold was over $800 for the part!
First of all the factory studs are stainless. Replacing them with anything else would be a downgrade.
Secondly from everything I've read corrosion has nothing to do with these failures. Everyone I've spoken with, including the dealer that did my driver's side manifold, insists that the studs typically break off in places that aren't subject to corrosion.
And lastly I believe that one of the contributing factors to stud breakage is the manifold warping, not the other way around. As far as I know the manifold is prone to warping which causes the studs to separate at the weakest point. I wouldn't reuse one of these manifolds unless it were planed otherwise you may likely end up doing this job again. My warranty company paid for a new manifold rather than insisting on it being planed, and complete replacement is the only authorized repair by Ford. The best solution is complete replacement with either a new manifold or header.
ON edit: Factory manifolds are expen$ive! My driver's side manifold was over $800 for the part!
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,022
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From: Redford, Mi.
Me and my son put a set of headers on his 2001 F350 V10, not a bad job, remove inner wheel wells, get yourself some extra space. About half the studs came out, three had enough sticking out so I could weld nuts on them and then they just turned out. The last few where a bit of work, a left handed drill I think would do wonders but after we drilled a hole in the stud we found a star socket that fit in it, I want to say a t10 or t15, pounded it in the hole and they screwed right out. Another hint is a right angle drill!!!!
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thanks guys. Went with the JBA shorties - best, least expensive option for what I needed. 7 studs total broken off. Should get the truck back today. Cost for removing manifolds,studs ect and installing headers will be about $700.00 in labor.
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AndersMatsson
Modular V10 (6.8l)
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Nov 12, 2014 09:00 PM
